After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001.

The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009.

Initial thoughts

The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518).

But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows.

Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous.

The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the quintessential look for the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph ever since the ref. 1518.

Personally, the silver dial against the yellow gold case lacks contrast, but it will surely find its fans, especially amongst traditionalists.

A new face

The new ref. 5270J is essentially identical to the existing versions of the reference, with the same dial design featuring a tachymetre on its perimeter that overlaps the outer minute track.

And the case is also identical in shape and size, with a 41 mm diameter and the flared lugs with concave fluting that are usually overlooked.

Within is the CH 29-535 PS Q, an in-house movement with a traditional construction and an instantaneous 30-minute counter, which means the hand jumps crisply with each minute that elapses on the chronograph. And it contains a handful of notable modern innovations, including patented tooth profiles for the chronograph wheels.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Ref. 5270J-001

Case diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. CH 29-535 PS Q
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph with instantaneous minute counter, and perpetual calendar with moon phase
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 55-65 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: 149,000 Swiss francs

For more, visit Patek.com.