While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019.

Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art.

This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025.

Initial thoughts

I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer.

In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works.

Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable.

A rose among the thorns

This unique Spin Time is based on the regular production Escale model, which is now discontinued in favour of the recently launched Tambour Taiko version. The Louis Vuitton catalogue still contains the Escale, but without the Spin time.

Probably the most classic watch case offered by Louis Vuitton, the Escale appears to be an entirely conventional round case on the front. Only in profile does it reveal details inspired by the brand’s trunks. The soldered lugs have faux “rivets” while the crown is octagonal.

Here the 41 mm case has been dressed up with brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs and bezel, but is otherwise identical to the regular version. It’s relatively large at 41 mm, but also thin; the overall feel is elegant.

But this watch really is all about the dial. Discreetly signed with the all-important “A. Porchet”, it depicts a rose with vines and thorns. I suppose it’s a common motif in tattoo art, but a somewhat peculiar choice for this watch. That said, the dial motif and overall style are complementary and Ms Porchet’s work is of course top quality.

The dial is set with red rubies and diamonds

The enamelling is on two parts, a chapter ring for the hours and a central disc. Most of it is in miniature painting, with the exception of the “LV” emblem that’s in champleve, essentially enamel surrounded by a raised metal border.

Mechanically, this is identical to the standard Spin Time. The hours are indicated by rotating cubes that jump at the top of each hour. The current hour is indicated by Arabic numerals on a 24-hour scale, while the rest of the cubes reveal only a diamond-set face.

As a first-generation Spin Time, this has a display module that is not quite as refined as the current generation. For one, the cube hours can only be set forwards, and each cube also rotates partially during the “arming” process before the jump. In the latest generation, the jump is instantaneous and seamless, while adjustment goes both ways.

Like other Spin Time models of the period, this has a display back, but one that only reveals the “mystery” rotor around its periphery. The centre of the sapphire window is printed with an opaque “LV” logo, which hides the ETA 2892 base movement.

The Escale Spin Time “Only Watch” is lot 47 in The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, with an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000. The sale takes place on May 10, 2025 and the catalogue is available on Phillips.com.