The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings.

More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes.

Initial thoughts

For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise.

The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland.

Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the tech will surely grow smaller and cheaper, but for now the Submersible Elux does it best.

Lit

Panerai is most famous for its highly luminous (and radioactive) dive watches made for the Italian navy’s frogman during the Second World War. With its micro-LED “power light” module, the Elux expands on that concept, both literally and functionally.

The Elux sticks to the familiar Submersible design, which means a Luminor case plus a rotating bezel, except here it’s been scaled up substantially.

To accommodate the movement as well as lighting module, the case is huge at 49 mm wide and 22 mm thick. For comparison, there are Panerai models with lugs that are 22 mm wide.

The watch is surprisingly lightweight as it is entirely titanium. Specifically, it is Ti-Ceramitech, which is Panerai’s trade name for ceramised titanium.

That’s essentially titanium that’s been subjected to an electrolytic process to create a thin ceramic layer on its surface, explaining the matte blue-grey surface. Depending on the light, the case mostly appears either black or grey.

While the crown lock mechanism at three is the classic Luminor feature, the Elux has another locking device at eight o’clock for the illumination pusher. This swivels upwards to reveal the button that lights up the watch as long as it is depressed (up to 30 minutes).

The illumination is an impressive feat for a mechanical wristwatch. The face lights up, as does the bezel marker, even when the bezel is rotated, thanks to nifty engineering.

Inside the solid back is the P.9010/EL that is actually two separate mechanisms. One is a conventional P.9010 manual-wind calibre with two barrels and a three day power reserve.

The other is the “power light” module with its own set of four barrels. Crucially, this means the light module has its own power source, so activating the lights does not compromise timekeeping. On full wind, the light module will run for 30 minutes.

The four barrels power a tiny generator that’s just 8 mm wide and 2.3 mm high, which provides the electric energy to LEDs under the dial. Bringing new meaning to “sandwich” dial, the LEDs illuminate the markers on the dial as well as the hands.

The transmission to the hands explains the extremely large hub for the hands in the centre of the dial, which is actually a cap that conceals the cannon pinion as well as illumination transmission line.

The hands and dial are lit not just by the LEDs, but also Super-Luminova X2 (basically an extra-bright lume formula) painted in a thin strip around the perimeter of each element.

The bezel marker at 12 also lights up, which is the really clever bit. Because the case is water resistant to 500 m, the case is sealed and the bezel sits on top. That means there is no mechanical connection between the case and bezel, and the bezel has to be able to rotate on the case.

So Panerai developed a patent-pending system of 60 LEDs under the bezel, but electricity is only transmitted to the 15 LEDs under the bezel marker. In other words, only the LEDs under the bezel marker illuminate when the “power light” system is activated. And as the bezel rotates, the LEDs follow along its motion.

Key facts and prices

Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID
Ref. PAM01800

Diameter: 49 mm
Height: 22 mm
Material: Blue Ti-Ceramitech
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 500 m

Movement: P.9010/EL
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, power light function, and linear power reserve indicator for light
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

Limited edition: 150 pieces, with 50 pieces produced per year
Availability: At Panerai boutiques and retailers
Price: US$97,800; or 142,700 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.