Vyntage Horology is a micro brand established by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East watch retailer giant best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. Vyntage has so far focused on small-run limited editions, with the latest being the Purity Tantonyx.

The 24-piece edition is a time-only executed in a novel combination of exotic materials: a tantalum case with a polished black onyx dial. Inside is a manual-wind La Joux-Perret LJP7380 with a 90-hour power reserve that’s rotated 45 degrees from the usual position, giving the watch its signature four o’clock crown.

Initial thoughts

On its face, the Tantonyx seems like a familiar proposition from a micro brand. But a couple of things set this apart from the typical offerings in this segment. For one, the materials are unusual, especially at this price point. Granted, the tantalum case and onyx dial make this substantially more expensive than the base model Vyntage watch, but the pricing remains reasonable.

The attention to detail in the execution also stands out. It’s obvious in the domed bezel and recessed seconds register (thanks to a two-part dial), but more notable in the finishing of the case, which has brushed flanks and polished tops for contrasting surfaces that are rarely done with tantalum due to its hardness.

However, the design is a missed opportunity in terms of minimalism in my opinion. Though the dial is already clean – the model name is Purity after all – I would have gone a step further and eliminated the lume on the hands, markings on the seconds register, and perhaps even the logo and “Swiss Made”.

Lastly, the fact that Vyntage is owned by a major retailer is reassuring simply because it means the brand has the backing needed for longevity, which is often missing with the typical micro brand that sells online.

Tantanlum and onyx

Vyntage Horology is the brainchild of Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, the chief executive officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. A Dubai-based retailer that’s the largest in the Gulf, Seddiqi recently announced the start of its Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Programme, and regularly puts out collaborations with independent brands like Ulysse Nardin and Ressence.

The Tantonyx sticks to the design template of the Vyntage time-only models. The dial is free of indices and minute scale, bringing to mind the “concept” dials of H. Moser & Cie., while the brand logo is a metallised appliqué under 12 o’clock. Notably, the seconds register is a brass disc that is separate from the onyx dial, allowing it to be recessed and concentrically grained.

In keeping with the rest of the Vyntage Purity line, the seconds is located off-centre at seven o’clock, which in turn places the crown at four.

The tantalum case has relatively compact dimensions of 39 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm height. It features a domed, polished bezel matched with polished tops on the lugs, while the case flanks and back are brushed for contrast.

Inside is a manual-wind LJP7380 made by La Joux-Perret, the movement make that supplies a range of independent brands, including MB&F’s M.A.D. Editions and Konstantin Chaykin.

The LJP7380 a relatively thin but wide movement that has an impressive 90-hour power reserve. The version employed here is the “top” grade offered by La Joux-Perret, giving it polished screw heads, radial striping on the bridges, and milled bevelling.

Key facts and price

Vyntage Horology Purity Tantonyx
Ref. VHSS.1311.1

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.8 mm (including both crystals)
Material: Tantalum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LJP 7380 by La Joux-Perret
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual-wind
Power reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Black matte rubber strap; additional black alligator strap from Jean Rousseau

Limited edition: 24 pieces
Availability: At Vyntage Horology’s online boutique or Seddiqi stores
Price: AED79,500 (equivalent to US$21,600)

For more, visit vyntage.com.