Having been acquired by Breitling’s private-equity owners last year, Universal Genève is scheduled to officially come back to life in 2026. But ahead of its revival in two years, the brand has unveiled a trio of one-off vintage remakes, the Polerouter SAS Tribute.

Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the inaugural Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight across the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, the three watches are modelled on the Polerouter, a watch created especially for the pilots of SAS. Notably, the Polerouter was designed by the late Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old.

The SAS Tribute is made up of three unique watches, one each in stainless steel, 18k white gold, and 18k red gold, with the white gold example slated to be sold at Phillips in May 2025 with proceeds going to a Geneva arts school. The remaining pair will be retained by Universal Genève as part of its archive and will not be offered for sale.

Initial thoughts

The Polerouter trio are essentially faithful remakes, right down to the new-old-stock cal. 1-69  micro-rotor movement inside, but with dials in modern colours and finishes. While drawing inspiration from the vintage design, they look modern.

The trio isn’t particularly imaginative, though it will appeal to fans of the brand’s vintage watches. Such remakes aren’t enough to revive a Universal Genève, though the brand’s attention to its historical models will be appreciated by enthusiasts. Whether or not Universal Genève Universal Genève can successfully translate an eye for vintage design into commercially viable products will be apparent in 2026.

A faithful tribute

Available in either stainless steel, 18k white gold or 18k red gold, the Polerouter sized like the vintage original at 35 mm in diameter and 9.95 mm in thickness, though its modern construction means a water resistance of 50 m. Notably, only the white gold model is paired with a matching, bracelet made by Laurent Jolliet, a Swiss jewellery bracelet maker.

Each example is fitted with a dial modelled on the vintage original. The dial centre varies according to the watch: black for rose gold, white for stainless steel, and blue for white gold. All three dials have chapter rings decorated with milled guilloché and plated to match the case metal. Interestingly, the dials all feature the modern Universal Genève logo but the historical SAS logo.

All three watches are powered by the self-winding, micro-rotor cal. 1-69, hidden under a solid back. The thinnest movement in the world at time of its launch, the cal. 1-69 beats at 18,000 beats per hour, and offers 57 hours of power reserve.

Key facts and price

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute
Ref. JU6910 (18k white gold)
Ref. RU6910 (18k red gold)
Ref. AU6910 (stainless steel)

Diameter: 35 mm
Height: 9.95 mm
Material: 18k white gold; 18k red gold; stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 1-69
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 57 hours

Strap: 18k white gold bracelet; black calf-skin leather strap

Limited edition: Each a piece unique
Availability: Only white gold example will be sold at Phillips in May 2025

For more, visit universalgeneve.com.