The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators.

While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans.

Initial thoughts

VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up.

Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotiers Wind God and Thunder God pair. Like the minute repeating pair (with a seven-figure price tag), these time-only watches are pieces of art for the wrist – but fortunately more affordable.

Tradition and craftsmanship

Japan’s Shinto religion venerates universal deities known as kami, which are believed to have influenced life on Earth since the dawn of time. Lore has it these deities came to Earth and formed the Japanese Archipelago millennia ago, giving birth to the nation. There are a multitude of kami, ranging from the goddess of the sun to the deity of ironworking.

VC selected three mythical figures in order to highlight the metaphysical aspects of time. The kami are depicted off-centre on each dial, as is traditional in Japanese art. The dials stay true to traditional Japanese paintings, which speaks of VC’s commitment to cultural and thematic accuracy, even for themes far removed from Swiss watchmaking.

These dials might look like simple enamel at first glance, but they are much more complex. Each dial starts as a solid gold disc that is lightly engraved in intaglio to give depth to the background and portrait. The engraver creates a soft, velvety feel on the metal — something that cannot be achieved by mechanical engraving techniques like guilloche.

After the engraving is complete, the enameller takes over and builds the silhouette of each kami in a Limoges white enamel. Afterwards comes the delicate process of filling in the fine details like robes and faces, all done by hand painting coloured enamel. This painstaking process is done under a microscope and requires tiny brushes tipped with only a few hairs.

Each completed dial requires six to seven coats of enamel, each set by firing in an oven at around 900°C. The dials are then coated with additional layers of translucent enamel, which protects the composition and endows it with a certain lustre.

The entire process for the dials took almost a month each: the intaglio engraving takes about 20 hours, while the enamelling requires another three weeks.

Three deities in miniature

The first timepiece is “Ode to Izanagi” and depicts the god of creation Izanagi, regarded as the founder of Japan. The deity is portrayed pointing a spear towards water — a nod to the legend of the Archipelago’s creation when Izanagi struck the ocean with his weapon. Cased in 18k white gold, this is the only 40 mm model in the line up; its thickness is a slim 9.3 mm.

Behind the dial of “Ode to Izanagi” is the cal. 2460 that is found in many of VC’s time-only metiers d’art watches. An automatic time-only movement, cal. 2460 beats at 4 Hz and runs for 40 hours. Notably, the cal. 2460 is concealed beneath a hinged officer’s case back, a feature found in many 40 mm Metiers d’Art models.

The other two watches that complete the trio have 36 mm cases that are 8 mm high with sapphire backs. The pair are slimmer due to the hand-wind cal. 1440 inside. A recent addition to VC’s stable of in-house movements, the cal. 1440 has a free-sprung balance and a full balance bridge, indicators that it is a modern but high-end construction.

Presented in yellow gold, the second watch is “Ode to Amaterasu”, dedicated to the goddess of the sun and daughter of Izanagi. Amaterasu is credited with introducing the ways of rice and wheat cultivation to Japan. She is traditionally portrayed with a sundial, and is depicted as such here.

The third and last piece depicts Konohanasakuya-hime, the goddess of Mount Fiji and Japan’s volcanoes. She is framed by cherry blossoms and mist. She symbolises the human life, which is as beautiful as it is fleeing — much like the cherry blossoms that surround her.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture
Ref. 2400C/000G-160C (Ode to Izanagi, 40 mm)
Ref. 1420C/000J-161C (Ode to Amaterasu, 36 mm)
Ref. 1420C/000G-162C (Ode to Konohanasakuya-hime, 36 mm)

Diameter: 40 mm/36 mm
Height: 9.4 mm/8 mm
Material: Yellow or white 18K gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2460/1440
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic/manual wind
Power reserve: 40/42 hours

Strap: Brown leather or satin strap with gold buckle

Limited edition: Each is a unique piece
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: Upon request

For more, visit Vacheron-constantin.com.