Inspired by Russian avant-garde art of the early 20th century, Raketa’s collection of the same name reproduces the graphic, geometric style on watch dials. The Raketa Avant-Garde 0292 is starkly and characterised by bold shapes. And unlike its predecessors, the new Avant-Garde does away with hour markers, which detracts from legibility but makes it all the more striking.

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the Avant-Garde appears abstract but is actually entirely conventional with three hands on a central axis. While readability is mixed at best, the dial has presence. The boldly graphic dial instantly evokes the art that inspired it, though it is not a like-for-like reproduction. Of all the art-inspired Raketa watches to date, this is the most interesting.

Priced at €1,625, the new Avant-Garde sits at the higher end of the range for watches of this segment; comparable watches would be those equipped with Miyota calibres. However, the Avant-Garde has the advantage of striking, original aesthetics that are coherent with the brand and its history. Most “artistic” watches in this price segment tend to have less coherent artistic sensibilities.

Granted, the fact that the dial is inspired by Russian art may be a turn-off for some, but the watch in itself is an appealing one.

Initial thoughts

The Avant-Garde 0292 is modelled on Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, a Bolshevik propaganda poster created during the Russian Civil War by El Lissitzky, a leading artist of the Russian avant-garde movement. The dial reproduces the key elements of the painting, including the titular wedge for the minute hand as well as its white, red, and black colour scheme.

The steel case remains unchanged from prior models, measuring 40.5 mm by 12 mm. It’s not too large, but fairly thick due to the cal. 2615 inside that’s visible through the open back.

Derived from a Soviet-era Raketa movement – and still made in-house – cal. 2615 is a low-beat workhorse calibre running at 18,000 beats per hour. While not fancy, it is certainly robust. And like all current Raketa movements, the cal. 2615 has been dressed up with modest decoration on the rotor and bridges, but still has a distinct no-frills aesthetic that reveals its origins.

Key facts and price

Raketa Avant-Garde 0292
Ref. W-13-16-10-0292

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire in front, mineral on the back
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2615
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Leather

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Raketa
Price: €1,625 excluding taxes

For more information, visit Raketa.com.