Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s latest creation is the first complication solely under his own name, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF). Very much embodying his defining style both in terms of aesthetics and execution, the RRCHF nonetheless illustrates the evolution of his approach to watchmaking, particularly in the subtle, fine details of the movement.

With a three-register layout that brings to mind historical pocket watches, the RRCHF has a fired enamel with a modern twist in the form of sapphire counters. The movement, on the other hand, reflects Mr Rexhepi’s love of symmetry and fine decoration, while also incorporating a useful bonus in the form of an instantaneously jumping minute register.

Initial thoughts

After having enjoyed unparalleled success with his time-only creations – exceptionally elaborate but still three hands – Mr Rexhepi is executing a plan he has long talked about: realising his interpretation of the important complications in watchmaking.

The RRCCHF is perhaps only the start of the plan, but it is a magnificent chronograph. Conceptually, it is similar to one of the great chronographs, the Lange Datograph, but sans date. While the Datograph, way back in 1999, sought to essentially replicate the intricacy of a pocket watch movement with elaborate exaggeration, the RRCHF is clearly a modern creation, yet imbued with numerous traditional and historical elements.

The overall style is now familiar; it echoes the design of the Chronometre Contemporain (RRCC) and Mr Rexhepi’s earlier creations. But as is often the case with his watches, the RRCHF is subtly but substantially improved. The lugs, for instance, are a little more elegant and expertly detailed, while the stepped bezel is more dramatic and impressive. And despite the multiple steps in the bezel, the case is unusually thin at just 9.7 mm high, giving it ideal proportions for this type of case.

The movement is exceptionally beautiful, and it is here that Mr Rexhepi’s approach of continuous refinement is most evident. At a distance the calibre is easily recognisable as possessing the Rexhep Rexhepi house style, yet in its details it is clearly improved – not only technically, like the escapement, but also from an aesthetic perspective, with the bridges for example. Some of the refinements are subtle enough to pass unnoticed yet they contribute to the whole. This balance of engineering and construction with design is an achievement few watchmakers have mastered.

More broadly, the RRCHF underlines the remarkable growth and vertical integration of Mr Rexhepi’s constellation of workshops in Geneva’s Old Town. The enamel dial, case, movement – including the new escapement – and even the strap, are made by the Akrivia workshops that are all within a few minutes’ walk of each other.

Granted, everything I have said is essentially moot since Mr Rexhepi’s current success means that acclaim will be the near-unanimous reception to the RRCHF. Is there anything to criticise with the RRCHF?

The case is under 10 mm high

Well, it is a “simple” chronograph for one. But for a “simple” chronograph it is outstanding. Handling it reminds me of my reaction when I first encountered the Datograph all those years ago – there will be chronographs with more functions, exotic innovations, and even more decoration, but this is special. And if this is Mr Rexhepi’s entry-level chronograph, his next one will be something.

And the design: while I love the aesthetics overall, the lettering on the dial is not to my taste. Short for horlogers à Genevè, the text at three o’clock serves a practical purpose of balancing the dial while also being a historical reference to historical pocket watches that were marked “Hger à Paris” back when the French capital was the capital of watchmaking.

While I understand the historical symbolism, I think Mr Rexhepi’s work isn’t really about geography nor is it tangibly inspired by the works of the great French watchmakers like Leroy and Janvier. In fact, I think his probably deserves something more ego-centric, akin to invenit et fecit.

But as I said my words are moot since this will be a watch everyone wants. Price wise, at least, it is accessible as such things go. In fact, it is a value proposition with its retail price of CHF150,000. Given that fancy time-only watches are today trending towards CHF80,000 or even CHF90,000, the RRCHF is priced well.

The first

The RRCHF debuts in two variants: platinum with a “stormy blue” enamel dial, and rose gold with a black enamel dial. Both sport clear sapphire counters tinted a pale grey.

Both share identical specs: an optimally sized case that’s 38.8 mm wide and just 9.7 mm high, making it one of the slimmest chronographs on the market and even a little than the F.P. Journe Chronographe FB.

The RRCHF is a first in two key respects. It’s Mr Rexhepi’s first chronograph under his sole name and the first movement to utilise the brand’s in-house escapement.

Strictly speaking, the RRCHF is not Mr Rexhepi’s first chronograph, that distinction goes to the LVRR-01 collaboration with Louis Vuitton, but this is the first under his sole name. The RRCHF movement is instantly identifiable as a Rexhep Rexhepi calibre with its symmetrical layout that echoes his earlier movements like the RRCC I and Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA).

Once again the movement is characterised by a vertically linear layout with the barrel and balance bookending a central wheel under a large bridge. Constructing the movement is this manner is more challenging than usual since the constraints are on both sides.

The under-dial mechanism must conform to the three-register layout while the reverse needs to fit below the symmetrical bridges and cocks. Chronograph mechanisms, by their nature, are asymmetrical, which is why traditional chronograph movements look as they do.

Observe the details of the movement, however, and the evolution in the style and finishing emerges, perhaps reflecting a maturing of the stylistic approach. This is important as it shows Mr Rexhepi is not merely reusing the same bridges and cocks, even though he easily can.

Even more important is the fact that the RRCHF is more than a pretty movement. As a classical chronograph it is full spec: lateral coupling, column wheel, and crucially, a jumping minutes counter. The instantaneous minutes is fun to watch but is also useful since it eliminates potential errors when reading the minutes.

The wheel with serrated teeth drives the jumping minutes

As expected, the balance wheel is free sprung and attached to an overcoil, but it is also paired with the brand’s new in-house escapement. Making its debut in the RRCHF, the new escapement is notably more efficient, according to Mr Rexhepi, and will eventually replace the present escapement in all his movements.

A tiny heart cam visible under the central bridge is responsible for the reset of the central seconds

In-house quality

In all its constituent parts, the RRCHF demonstrates the evolution of Akrivia and Mr Rexhepi’s work. Compare its case to that of a first-generation RRCC I and the improvement is obvious. The lines, edges, and joints are uniformly superior; this is evident when examining the lugs of the RRCHF. In fact, the joining of the soldered lugs to the case middle is nothing short of magnificent. Though the lugs adopt Mr Rexhepi’s favoured style, they are marvellously more refined here.

Most subtle is the case back, which screws down to a vertical alignment relative to the lugs, illustrating the ability of Akrivia’s case making workshop that was once supervised by the late Jean-Pierre Hagmann.

Dial details

Across the street from the case workshop is the enamel studio that is responsible for the fired enamel dial of the RRCHF. The quality of its enamel work is clear from the colour, smoothness, curvature, and enamel print of the RRCHF dials. The quality of dial is unmistakeable but its design also stands out and reveals a keen eye for detail.

Some of these details are stylistic, like the alternating scales on the dial that borrow from the RRCC. The extra-long central seconds and sub-dial for the time together convince the wearer that the RRCHF is first and foremost a chronograph.

Others are functional: the downward-stepped hands were conceived to eliminate parallax error and were first used on the RRCA to emphasise its purpose as a chronometer.

Key facts and price

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback
Ref. RRCHF

Diameter: 38.8 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: RRCHF
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds; flyback chronograph with instantaneously jumping minute counter
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Calfskin with platinum pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Akrivia and its retailers
Price: CHF150,000 before taxes

For more, visit Akrivia.com.