Aaron Becsei Rebrands, Launches Becsei J.Z.A.

A new look for the third-generation independent.

Hungarian independent watchmaker Aaron Becsei, long known for his expert craftsmanship and flamboyant designs, has rebranded and launched the Becsei J.Z.A., a finely made time-only watch with a more digestible design that should broaden his reach with contemporary collectors.

Like Mr Becsei’s earlier work, the J.Z.A. is substantially handmade and will be produced in limited numbers — eight pieces, to be specific.

Initial thoughts

Aaron Bescei is an independent watchmaker of the old school — a craftsman with the bench experience to produce a watch from scratch. This aspect of his craft is noteworthy in a segment crowded with engineers and constructors that typically farm out finishing and assembly.

He’s also been around awhile, having been granted admittance to the AHCI in 2009, though for more than a decade he’s traded under the phonetic pronunciation of his name, Bexei. After a relatively quiet period, the third-generation Hungarian independent watchmaker returns with a rebranded business and a new round watch that manages to stand out despite its now-common format.

Mr Bescsei’s previous watches were extravagantly finished with impressively wide, rounded bevels and other lovely details. In many ways, he was a decade ahead of the demand for such watches, but his designs were often maximalist and baroque. His earlier watches, the Dignitas, in particular, featured a massive rectangular case and engraved scrollwork — an aesthetic in tension with contemporary tastes.

The Becsei J.Z.A., on the other hand, retains the maker’s unmistakable touch while rebooting the design language to something more akin to Bauhaus, but with a distinctly Hungarian character. For collectors who have watched Mr Becesei from afar until now, the appealing new design language might be enough to pull them off the sidelines.

The J.Z.A. moniker refers to the three generations of watchmakers in the family. His grandfather was named Joseph, and his father was Zsolt. The ‘A’ stands for Aaron, who has taken the family legacy to new heights.

While it’s true that the market for independent watchmaking is larger and more competitive than it has ever been, Mr Becsei’s story remains unique. One of the few independent watchmakers operating outside the traditional Swiss supplier network, his watches have an individuality that distinguishes them from Swiss conformity.

Design

The J.Z.A. departs significantly from Mr Becsei’s prior designs. The new look trades baroque flourishes for early 20th-century architectural influences. Designed in collaboration with a Thai collector, the new look is much more suited to contemporary aesthetic sensibilities.

A recurring motif is the dome shape that repeats itself on the dial and buckle, which is inspired by the dome of the Hungarian Parliament building. This detail connects the watch to its native terroir in a tangible way, in much the same way that fellow AHCI member Anton Suhanov’s latest movement forms a rudimentary map of St Petersburg.

A mechanical ‘Hommage to Grandpa’

The hand-wound calibre is eminently traditional in its layout, and is constructed from restored historical components that belonged to his grandfather. But even considering the familiar layout, several details stand out.

The first is naturally the obvious quality of the finishing. Most of the effort has been put into the richly rounded anglage and a pair of inner angles. Equally striking are the sharp points of the outward angles, particularly those featured on the swooping balance cock.

Like Mr Becsei’s earlier watches, the countersinks around each of the jewels and screws are especially wide and decadently polished. The winding wheels at first look simple, even rudimentary, but the black-polished tops of the gear teeth hint at the labour involved. Perhaps the only missing ingredient is an overcoil hairspring, which would have elevated the calibre further.

The unusual click spring is also worth attention, claimed to be inspired by the sword that features in the crest of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. It floats precariously above the click wheel, bringing interest to what is usually an unremarkable component.