Raymond Weil Marks 50 Years with 50 Year-Old Valjoux 23
The best Millesime yet.
Building on the success of its retro wristwatch, Raymond Weil is marking its 50th anniversary with the Millesime “The Fifty”. While it retains the familiar “sector” dial of the Millesime, the Fifty boasts upgraded mechanics in the form of a “new old stock” Valjoux 236 dating from 1976, the year of brand’s founding by the eponymous Raymond Weil.
The Fifty combines the vintage movement with a thoughtful design that includes an appropriately sized 37 mm case – steel but with a white gold bezel no less – and novel texturing on the “sector” dial. Notably, the Fifty is also priced well at under CHF9,000.
Initial thoughts
The base model Millesime is good for what it is, combining an appealing design with an affordable price. The Fifty is more expensive, but arguably even better, because it still has an appealing aesthetic, but now with an excellent movement and a fair price.
Watches powered by a vintage Valjoux 23 usually cost more – Singer Reimagined’s equivalent costs almost double – making the Fifty a good value proposition. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that it evokes the Patek Philippe ref. 1436 “Tasti Tondi”.
But it’s more than just accessible; the design of the basic Millesime has been elaborated on in a concise and logical manner. The result is a watch that clearly resembles the standard model, but with finer details, including the linear patterning on the dial centre.
I disagree with some minor details, like the luminous hands that don’t match the luminous dial, but overall the Fifty is executed well and priced right. Raymond Weil started on the right track with the original, time-only Millesime, and is continuing in the right direction.
Marking fifty years in style
The Fifty is, appropriately enough, limited to 50 pieces. It’s a fine way of marking the brand’s 50th anniversary, and also something of a proclamation that Raymond Weil is now a more interesting brand than it was not too long ago.
The Fifty adopts the standard Millesime case, now matched with correct “pump” pushers. The case is 37 mm and steel, except for the bezel, which is 18k white gold – an impressive extra given the price of the watch and today’s gold price.
Similarly, the dial takes the design of the standard Millesime but does one better. It’s made up of four parts with a variety of finishes, including a stamped “tapestry” pattern in the centre and a grained finish on the chapter ring. Interestingly, the baton hour markers are black Super-Luminova, which preserves the vintage style of the dial but ends up being a poor match for the hands that contain conventional white Super-Luminova.
The Valjoux cal. 236 inside the Fifty dates to 1975 according to Raymond Weil. The original calibre was a high quality but workmanlike movement, but by modern standards it would be considered high end given its classical construction.
The movement here has been dressed up for the occasion, most notably with the balance cock and chronograph bridge in black ruthenium plating, giving them a contrasting finish against the rest of the movement.
Raymond Weil also notes the movement has been finished by hand, with both the bevelling and countersinks polished by hand. This is commendable, but even if the movement was decorated to a basic standard, the Fifty would still offer decent value.
Key facts and price
Raymond Weil Millesime The Fifty 37 mm
Ref. 1976-STC-65001
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.75 mm
Material: Stainless steel with 18k white gold bezel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m
Movement: RW1976 (Valjoux 236)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Strap: Calfskin leather strap
Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Now at Raymond Weil boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF8,650
For more, visit Raymond-weil.com.
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