Urwerk’s latest satellite-display creation, the UR-230 Black Star, builds on more than two decades of the brand redefining the wandering hours complication. A concept first teased in the Harry Winston Opus 5 and later perfected in the UR-210, the retrograde-satellite display has become synonymous with Urwerk’s identity, and the Black Star demonstrates how far the idea has come.

With a lightweight fibreglass-reinforced ceramic case, the Black Star is a 35-piece limited edition that looks to be the final instalment of the UR-230 series.

Initial thoughts

Urwerk didn’t invent the wandering hours display, but the brand deserves credit for dragging the complication into modernity in the late 1990s. While the brand has dabbled in watches with conventional hands, it’s still the satellite time display that carries the essence of Urwerk’s DNA.

The UR-230 traces its roots back to the 2012 launch of the UR-210, which introduced the retrograde frame that travels with the satellite cube for hours. The concept for a retrograde hand paired with wandering hours dates back even further, to the 2005 launch of the Harry Winston Opus 5, which was also designed by Urwerk.

While the concept has subsequently been elaborated with the UR-150 Scorpion, the UR-230 still looks strikingly advanced even after all these years. The latest black-and-yellow livery seems to be the flavour of the day, closely matching the brand’s recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin.

The signature detail of the Black Star is, of course, its black ceramic composite case. Though fairly large at over 53 mm long and 18 mm tall, the UR-230 is extremely lightweight and comfortable on the wrist (assuming one is wearing short sleeves). The all-black look shrinks the visual presence even more, while the subtle texture of the case rewards close inspection.

In nominal Swiss Francs, Urwerk has kept the pricing of this series almost flat over the past 13 years. The UR-210 debuted in 2012 at CHF137,000, which puts the Black Star’s retail price of CHF150,000 in perspective. There’s no getting around the fact this is a lot of money given the maturity of this collection, but the incremental increase is fully justified by the upgraded base calibre, the novel case material, and other refinements that Urwerk has implemented over time.

Fade to black

The Black Star’s immediate predecessor was the UR-230 Polaris introduced a year ago. Like its bright white sibling, the Black Star’s case is made from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic, giving it some of the benefits of ceramic while being much less susceptible to cracking if dropped.

The black composite material looks a bit like the forged carbon cases popular a decade ago, but it is no doubt more robust given the presence of ceramic in its composition. The case is machined from a solid block of compressed layers of braided ceramic that have been woven together with fibreglass and carbon fibre.

The marbled surface, which reveals details of its woven structure, is suitably technical for the Urwerk aesthetic. It’s also lightweight and comfortable, especially on the brand’s supple rubber strap that closes with velcro.

Automatic or manual

One of the things that Urwerk has changed since the launch of the UR-210 is the underlying base calibre. The Zenith Elite used originally has made way for a Vaucher base movement with a free-sprung balance. While this change coincided with a slight increase in thickness, it’s a welcome change nonetheless as the Vaucher calibre is better suited to Urwerk’s up-market aspirations.

Despite the revised base calibre, the movement still offers the signature air-brake turbines and the ability to toggle automatic winding on or off. Given the mature state of modern automatic winding systems, the real-world utility of this capability is unclear, but it remains an engaging way to interact with the movement.

The case back of the UR-230 Polaris, showing the control knobs for slowing down or turning off the automatic winding functionality.

Key facts and price

Urwerk UR-230 Black Star

Case dimensions: 44.81 mm by 53.55 mm
Case height: 18.38 mm
Material: Fibreglass-reinforced ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UR-7.30
Features: Hours and minutes; air brake system for winding regulations; automatic winding on/off indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Vulcanised rubber strap with Velcro fastening

Limited edition: 35 pieces
Availability: Now at Urwerk retailers
Price: CHF150,000 before taxes

For more, visit Urwerk.com