Continuing with its 250th anniversary special editions in fine style, not long after the Temporis Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin’s latest is the 12-piece-strong Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”. Each watch is dedicated to symbol of the zodiac, with the respective constellation rendered in hand guilloché on the dial, while the case is set with baguette-cut sapphires totalling almost 4 ct.

Fortunately available individually instead of only as a set, each “Tribute to The Celestial” watch is powered by the cal. 2160, an automatic movement with a tourbillon and novel peripheral winding mechanism.

Initial thoughts

Vacheron Constantin (VC) has long combined complications and gemstones, though in a relatively low-key manner since such watches were rarely announced publicly. The series of Overseas Perpetual Calendars set with coloured stones, for example, was never widely publicised.

The “Tribute to The Celestial” demonstrates what VC can do with its in-house guilloche workshop and gem setting (which is probably not done in house). The watches are striking and beautiful, though certainly only for fans of blue, and only blue.

Despite the gemstones and guilloche, the watches look surprisingly modern, likely due to the colour as well as the geometric nature of the engine turning. Though the guilloche is done the old school way on a hand-operated machine, the engraved zodiac symbols look nothing like traditional guilloche.

Not all the zodiac emblems are equally attractive, at least in pictures. The straight line guilloche seems better suited to some symbols than others. Scorpio, Pisces, and Libra, for instance, seem to be more appealingly represented than Leo.

Each of the watches is already set with a good weight of blue sapphires – 96 stones, including on the crown – but the case flanks are naked, leaving it feeling a little incomplete. Each of these watches are already expensive, so setting sapphires on the case sides would make them even more so, but it would have been a finishing touch.

Engine turning

Each of the dozen “Tribute to The Celestial” watches corresponds to a zodiac symbol that is represented with its respective constellation on the dial. The constellations are all executed in a stylised manner, comprised of lines forming polygons that together create the zodiac figure, and finally accented with tiny, brilliant-cut diamonds to represent stars.

Each dial is a solid, 18k gold disc with solid gold hour markers

Despite the modern feel of the representation, each zodiac symbol is engraved via a traditional guilloche technique, namely on a hand-operated straight-line machine. This technique is more often associated with classical guilloche found on dials from the likes of Breguet and Voutilainen, but the zodiac dials demonstrate the versatility of the technique.

VC was one of the first brands to set up an in-house guilloche workshop, and it has since developed a diverse array of decorative techniques. The constellations on each dial illustrate the ability of VC’s engine turning artisans.

The metallic blue dial is complemented by a white gold case set with blue sapphires along the bezel, lugs, and crown. The sides of the case are not set with gemstones, though the folding clasp boasts a half-carat or so of blue sapphires.

The 12 watches are all powered by the same cal. 2160. Widely used by VC across its catalogue, the cal. 2160 is also found in the Overseas and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.

It’s a slim movement with a novel feature, a peripheral winding mechanism that has the rotor take the form of a narrow ring mounted around the calibre. This approach helps to minimise the thickness of the movement, resulting in a relatively thin case that’s just 10.7 mm high, which is reasonable given the extra thickness needed to accommodate the gemstone setting on the bezel.

The calibre has the tourbillon located at the usual six o’clock position, and the tourbillon cage takes the form of a Maltese cross. The cage is likely the most elaborately finished component of the movement, with each of its arms being open worked, mirror polished, and chamfered with inward angles.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”
Ref. 96007A/000G-H042 to -H053 (12 references)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: 18k white gold, set with baguette-cut blue sapphires on bezel, lugs, and crown
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not water resistant

Movement: Cal. 2160 
Functions: Hours and minutes, tourbillon with seconds indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 80hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp set with sapphires

Limited edition: No, but limited production
Availability: Only at Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: On request

For more information, visit vacheron-constantin.com.