Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial.

The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival.

Initial thoughts

I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different.

The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design.

The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify.

A prototype revived

Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial layout, but doesn’t correspond exactly to an actual model.

The lapis edition is essentially identical to the standard model, save for the lapis dial as well as a slightly thicker case to accommodate the significantly thicker dial. The case has the same 38 mm diameter is 14 mm high, about 1.5 mm taller than the standard version.

The thickness of the lapis dial disc is necessary to avoid cracking due to the natural fragility of thinly sliced stone. This thickness is apparent in the chronograph registers and date window, all of which reveal the height of the lapis disc.

Mechanically the lapis model is identical, with the El Primero 3610 inside visible through the open back. Like the original El Primero movement of 1969, it’s a high-frequency movement running at 5 Hz, but it is a modern construction.

Besides the longer 60 hour power reserve, it also features a lightning seconds function – the central seconds hand makes one revolution every 10 seconds, which allows the wearer to record elapsed times of up to 1/10th of a second, at least in theory.

Key facts and price

Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Ref. 03.3400.3610/51.C910

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 14 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: El Primero 3610
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, date, month, chronograph, and moonphase display
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather or stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Zenith boutiques and retailers
Price: US$22,700

For more information, visit Zenith-Watches.com.