A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination.

Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different.

Initial thoughts

Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft.

Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and then only in white gold). Otherwise, it’s fairly typical dial in the 1815 style, with solid gold alpha hands and printed markers.

The L152.1 movement is new, but not revolutionary. Like most Lange movements, it ticks at 3.5 Hz and runs for up to 72 hours. It’s 2.9 mm thickness matches that of the L093.1 in the Saxonia Thin, but the L152.1 is smaller in diameter and differs in the design of the three-quarter plate, which hides the ratchet wheel, and the fact that it features running seconds.

Palexpo, the convention hall that’s home to W&W, was packed with watches that were surprisingly expensive, making the 1815’s retail price of just under US$25,000 seem almost refreshing by contrast. Considering its iconic Lange design, top-shelf materials, and abundance of true hand finishing, it’s one of the better values to be had from any major haute horlogerie brand.

A return to form

The 1815 is distinguished by its brushed case band and notched, soldered lugs. Eagle-eyed Lange fans will also notice the stepped bezel, which debuted in the 1815 collection back in 2013.

Lange is remarkably consistent in its approach to cases, even though they’re made by a number of different suppliers. The 1815’s case is made by Efteor, which is one of the brand’s go-to suppliers. It’s a simple design with a complex construction, with lugs that are soldered into place after the case band is given its brushed finish.

The lugs’ notched design contributes to the sturdy barrel-like feeling of the case, and helps distinguish the Lange case from any other. The bezel and case back are also stepped, a detail that adds intrigue to the profile view and reduces the visual height of the watch.

The 75th manufacture caliber

One of my favourite things about Lange is they’re a movement maker first and foremost. Nearly all of the 600 or so people who work at the manufacture in Glashütte work on movements, and the brand generally leaves cases and dials to specialists. And they don’t rush the process, averaging just about eight movements per person each year, which is among the most methodical ratios in the industry.

So the movements are always special, even when they’re quite simple as is the case with the L152.1. The movement is instantly recognisable as a Lange, with a large three-quarter plate in untreated German silver, numerous jewels in gold chatons, an abundance of heat-blued screws, gleaming steelwork, and a free-hand engraved balance cock that imbues the machine with a touch of humanity.

Overall, the finishing is consistent with other Lange movements, putting it head-and-shoulders above its more industrial Genevan peers.

Aesthetically, Lange made the choice to hide the ratchet wheel, which I think was the right one. This differs from the L093.1 in the Saxonia Thin, which features exposed winding wheels. The exposed elements offer a better look at the polished teeth, but in a small movement they contribute to a crowded appearance. The L152.1 instead features a jeweled mainspring pivot and an expanse of precise Glashütte ribbing that feels just right.

A few of the technical details also stand out. While the 3.5 Hz rate and 72-hour power reserve are fairly normal, the movement features a hairspring that was made in-house in Glashütte. This is a delicate process that most brands leave to industrial producers, so it’s nice to see so much effort put into such a simple movement, especially one in an entry-level model. As for the longer power reserve, it’s due in part to a new going train.

Closing thoughts

The Lange 1815 34 mm is a watch that looks vintage but feels modern, which is a good combination of attributes. While the size might be an acquired taste for some, it’s inherently comfortable and thoughtfully crafted from top to bottom.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne 1815
Ref. 220.028 (18k white gold)
Ref. 220.037 (18k pink gold)

Diameter: 34 mm
Height: 6.4 mm
Material: 18k white or pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30m

Movement: L152.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 bph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching pin buckle

Limited Edition: No
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques and retailers
Price: US$24,500 before taxes

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019.

Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art.

This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025.

Initial thoughts

I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer.

In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works.

Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable.

A rose among the thorns

This unique Spin Time is based on the regular production Escale model, which is now discontinued in favour of the recently launched Tambour Taiko version. The Louis Vuitton catalogue still contains the Escale, but without the Spin time.

Probably the most classic watch case offered by Louis Vuitton, the Escale appears to be an entirely conventional round case on the front. Only in profile does it reveal details inspired by the brand’s trunks. The soldered lugs have faux “rivets” while the crown is octagonal.

Here the 41 mm case has been dressed up with brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs and bezel, but is otherwise identical to the regular version. It’s relatively large at 41 mm, but also thin; the overall feel is elegant.

But this watch really is all about the dial. Discreetly signed with the all-important “A. Porchet”, it depicts a rose with vines and thorns. I suppose it’s a common motif in tattoo art, but a somewhat peculiar choice for this watch. That said, the dial motif and overall style are complementary and Ms Porchet’s work is of course top quality.

The dial is set with red rubies and diamonds

The enamelling is on two parts, a chapter ring for the hours and a central disc. Most of it is in miniature painting, with the exception of the “LV” emblem that’s in champleve, essentially enamel surrounded by a raised metal border.

Mechanically, this is identical to the standard Spin Time. The hours are indicated by rotating cubes that jump at the top of each hour. The current hour is indicated by Arabic numerals on a 24-hour scale, while the rest of the cubes reveal only a diamond-set face.

As a first-generation Spin Time, this has a display module that is not quite as refined as the current generation. For one, the cube hours can only be set forwards, and each cube also rotates partially during the “arming” process before the jump. In the latest generation, the jump is instantaneous and seamless, while adjustment goes both ways.

Like other Spin Time models of the period, this has a display back, but one that only reveals the “mystery” rotor around its periphery. The centre of the sapphire window is printed with an opaque “LV” logo, which hides the ETA 2892 base movement.

The Escale Spin Time “Only Watch” is lot 47 in The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, with an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000. The sale takes place on May 10, 2025 and the catalogue is available on Phillips.com.