It seems like just yesterday that A. Lange & Söhne celebrated its 25th anniversary with the 10-piece Lange 1 set. But turning 30 is always a big deal, and the brand has risen to the occasion with limited editions of its flagship Lange 1 and its smaller sibling, the Little Lange 1, including a version with the brand’s first-ever mineral stone dial on a watch without gemstones.

Both the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 30th Anniversary are available in pink gold with a navy blue dial, or in platinum with a black dial – both versions evoking uncommon historical versions of the model. Lange typically reserves the latter configuration for its special editions, and in this case the degree of specialness is dialled up a notch with a dial crafted from black onyx.

Initial thoughts

It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for Lange. Nevertheless, I’ve never warmed up to their black-dialled watches, including the Datograph, which I feel look a bit flat. Judging by the press images, the black onyx dial of the Lange 1 30th anniversary is a different animal; deep and glossy. The pink gold and navy blue references are also attractive, but it’s the platinum and black models that immediately captured my attention and have continued to occupy my thoughts.

In most ways, the 30th anniversary editions of the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 are no different from the standard models. The cases measure 38.5 mm and 36.8 mm, respectively, and are about 10 mm thick. Naturally, the platinum models are slightly thicker to accommodate the extra thickness of the stone dial.

Though the 30th anniversary editions are all second-generation Lange 1 models, they hark back to first-generation variants in a way that Lange enthusiasts will appreciate. The platinum-and-onyx combination is a clear nod to the “Darth”, while the blue dial and rose gold case brings to mind the uncommon Lange 1 ref. 101.028 in yellow gold with a blue dial.

Like all Lange limited editions, collectors can expect to pay a premium relative to comparable, regular production models. The platinum versions cost about US$57,000 and US$54,000 for the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 respectively, while the pink gold models are about 10% less.

This would represent a less substantial premium than we’ve seen with the brand’s recent special editions like the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. For those who appreciate the aesthetic or want to own a rare “first” for the brand, I think the onyx dial models in particular will be quite sought-after at retail.

In conclusion, the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 30th Anniversary editions live up to the moment. In the case of the stone-dialed platinum models, they even offer something new we’ve never seen before from Lange.

Dialling things up a notch

On a technical level, these new references are no different than the standard models. As a result, the interest lies with the new dials. While a cynic might view this as lazy, the execution is so well done it’s hard to fault the outcome. Both liveries look great and exude the attention to detail that Lange is known for.

Of course, this is not the first time that Lange has produced the Lange 1 in platinum with a black dial. That honour goes to the ref. 101.035, introduced in 1999 and subsequently nicknamed “Darth”. The “Darth” was discontinued in 2006 and has become a beloved reference, clearly inspiring the 30th Anniversary editions.

As is typical for Lange, the dials are made of sterling silver. For the platinum references, a wafer of onyx stone is added atop the silver base, explaining the additional thickness of the platinum cases. The glossy, piano-black finish of the onyx differentiates this model from the original Darth (which had a silver dial), and any other black-dial Lange for that matter (perhaps with the exception of the black enamel dial of the Lange 1 Handwerkskunst).

While this may not be the last stone dial we see from Lange, history tells us the brand is usually conscientious about not overplaying its greatest hits, so expect mineral stones to be used sparingly.

Not to be outdone, the pink gold and navy blue livery calls to mind the ref. 101.028 of 1998 (that was made in small numbers), and exudes a degree of ’90s chic that still looks good 30 years later.

Black and blue, big and small

Beyond the differences in the cases and dials, there is, of course, the matter of size. The Little Lange 1 is naturally slightly smaller than the standard model, by about 1.7 mm in diameter and 0.3 mm in thickness.

Interestingly, both sizes feature the same movement, but the smaller sibling lacks the convenient push-button at 10 o’clock for advancing the date, and makes do with a recessed pusher in the case that requires a stylus.

All four references share the excellent caliber L121.1, which made its debut in 2015 with the second-generation Lange 1. This movement improved on the original cal. L901.0 with the addition of a free-sprung balance, an instantly jumping outsize date, and directly driven subsidiary seconds, but arguably lost some of its predecessor’s aesthetic charm. That said, it still looks good and has developed an excellent reputation after nearly a decade in service.

This technical difference aside, most buyers will choose based on the size aesthetic. The smaller sizing of the Little Lange 1 positions it squarely as a unisex watch; fortunately it lacks any other concessions to gender stereotypes. While the additional size is welcome, I do think the smaller size and slimmer bezel work against the dial design, making it feel a bit cramped compared to that of the standard model.

But because it’s not the primary reference, it will likely see less demand and is being produced in smaller numbers; 150 in each metal for the Little Lange 1, compared to 300 in each metal for the regular size.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary
Ref. 191.062 (platinum)
Ref. 191.063 (18k pink gold)

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10 mm (platinum), 9.8 mm (18k pink gold)
Material: Platinum or 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30m

Movement: L121.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve indicator; outsize date
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 bph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching pin buckle

Limited Edition: Yes, 300 pieces in each metal
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques
Price: Platinum US$57,400; pink gold US$50,200

A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 30th Anniversary
Ref. 181.062 (platinum)
Ref. 181.063 (18k pink gold)

Diameter: 36.8 mm
Height: 9.98 mm (platinum), 9.5 mm (18k pink gold)
Material: Platinum or 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30m

Movement: L121.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve indicator; outsize date
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 bph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching pin buckle

Limited Edition: Yes, 150 pieces in each metal
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques
Price: Platinum US$53,800; pink gold US$46,200

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.