After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT).

Initial thoughts

For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology. 

The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type. 

The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back. 

An artful dial

The centrepiece of the Galactique — and perhaps its best trait — is the engraved and enamelled dial. A miniature painting of the Earth as seen from the Moon’s surface by a LV-themed astronaut, the lively dial is both artful and fun in its details. Thematically, this is a sequel to last year’s Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”.

Crafting the cosmic panorama takes over 300 hours, with four distinct enamelling techniques being implemented. The dial base carries the painting of the lunar surface and its perspective of Earth, while elements like the Sun, the astronaut and the satellite are mounted in dedicated fixtures. 

The miniature Sun is crafted by altering slim layers of gold with translucent enamel (a technique known as paillonné enamel) which gives the star’s shining appearance. Gold is systematically used on the dial base as well, serving as the backdrop for the diamond-shaped stars.

The astronaut was sculpted by Louis Vuitton’s resident Master Engraver. The small figure holds a yellow flag and is thoroughly LV-themed. The classic Louis Vuitton symbols appear all over the dial, making for fun and recognisable details.

The figures are part of the automata of the Galactique and spring to life when the repeater function is actuated. Traditional automata timepieces paired mechanics with artisanal elements, something which the Galactique does very well.

An adapted case

Framing the dial is the recently redesigned Tambour case which, although slightly thick at 14.6 mm, fits the watch and overall theme very well. Manufactured by the brand’s own La Fabrique des Boîtiers, a five-minute’s drive from LFT, the 46.7 mm case is tastefully modern. 

The sloping bezel bears the brand name in relief, with raised letters on a frosted channel. As separate pieces, each finished by hand, the lugs curve off the case and are hollowed out, with frosting applied on the inner concave surfaces.

Being a minute repeater, the case also features an actuating slide. The slide is set with six baguette-cut sapphires and a pair of baguette-cut topaz. The crown positioned at 12 o’clock is reminiscent of pocket watches that were adapted for the wrist.

A remarkable movement

Powering the space-themed automata is the hand-wound LFT AU14.02 calibre. Developed by LFT, the movement marries traditional finishing with an interesting architecture. LFT has managed to create its own design signature when it comes to movements. Large jewels, broad Geneva stripes and arched intertwined bridges are some of the elements which appear often in the movement maker’s creations. 

The LFT AU14.02 looks like a fairly classic repeater movement, with cathedral gongs, hammers and a governor that sets the pace of the strikework. The timekeeping portion of the movement is pleasantly open-worked, revealing most of the going train to the onlooker.

LFT AU14.02 runs at 3 Hz for about 100 hours and comes with the familiar LFT regulator, namely a free-spring balance and a slim, skeletonised escape wheel. While the finishing is applied by machine and then finished off by hand, the result is a tidy and finely decorated movement.

The movement sounds the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, with the striking process also bringing the dial to life.

The astronaut waves its flag, the Sun rotates and the satellite’s components adjust as the strike works chime the time. Each element moves at its own pace, creating the illusion that the animations are independent.

With the multiple moving parts on the dial, integrating the moving figures with the dial-side strikework was surely a difficult task for the watchmakers.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Galactique
Ref. W9TI12

Diameter: 46.7 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Material: Brown, lugs and slide-piece in 18K white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: LFT AU14.02
Features: Hours, minutes, automata function and minute repeater
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 100 hours

Strap: Blue rubber strap with 18K white gold double buckle

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €1 million before taxes

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.