Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade.

Initial thoughts

I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès.

The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original.

More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show.

And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches.

Suspending time

The Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gets its name from the fact that it can “suspend time”. In essence, Le Temps Suspendu is a triple retrograde that records elapsed time and date.

When “suspended”, the hour, minute, and date hands remain stationary at their respective neutral positions, the hour and minute hands resting at either side of 12 o’clock while the date hand is concealed under the edge of the dial.

Pressing the button at nine o’clock wakes up the display and all the hands jump to their correct positions showing the current time and date – regardless of how much time has passed. In other words, the movement “remembers” the time as it passes, even when the hands are frozen.

The facelifted Arceau Le Temps Suspendu debuts in three variants, all sharing the same specs but differing in case metal and dial finish. Cased in white gold are brun désert (“desert brown”) and rouge sellier (“saddler red”), while sunburst blue is in rose gold.

Both white gold models are unusual and striking and my favourites; the combination of blue and rose gold is more conventional.

From left: Brun désert, sunburst blue, and rouge sellier. Image – Hermes

The new model similar retains the asymmetrical Arceau case that has loop-like upper lugs and stubby lower lugs, a form inspired by the stirrup. But though the complication remains the same, the case has been slimmed down slightly to 42 mm while being a little thinner, compared to 43 mm before. This is thanks to the smaller Vaucher calibre inside.

Though slight, the reduction in case dimensions is apparent and the new model feels more compact and a little more elegant.

The most obvious update to the model is, however, the dial. This transforms the look of the watch, giving it a more modern appearance that’s simultaneously more mechanical.

The dial is stepped in several places, with the minute scale being raised, while the date scale and “12” are recessed. The various elements of the dial are also finished differently, ranging from radial brushing to frosting, which adds to the layered appearance.

The central portion of the dial is a window of sapphire that’s tinted to match the dial colour. It’s still clear enough to show off the mechanics of the “suspended time” complication that in principle is similar to a chronograph. As a result, the mechanism resembles some aspect of a traditional chronograph construction, explaining why it is actually more complicated than it seems.

The module is essentially unchanged from the original, which was developed by Geneva complications specialist Agenhor, best known for its retrograde and jumping mechanism. Agenhor’s complications are often unusual and also poetic, both in function and execution.

The tinted sapphire window is not wide enough to reveal the equestrian elements that were cleverly incorporated into the calibre by Agenhor – several of the levers take the form of a horse’s head in reference to the signature Hermès motif.

Though the Agenhor module remains, it is now mounted on the H1837, a double-barrel automatic movement produced by Vaucher, the movement maker of which Hermès owns a third. This contrasts with the base movement of the original, which was the reliable but inexpensive ETA 2892.

The H1837 is widely used across Hermès’ line-up. It’s a refined calibre with slimness and a free-sprung balance but several years old, so the power reserve is a short 45 hours. Like majority of the movements Vaucher produces for Hermès, the H1837 is decorated with a stamped repeating “H” motif.

Despite being unconventional and stamped, the “H” patterning is appealing. Personally I like it better than Cotes de Geneve, which would be equally industrially applied in a movement like this.

Key facts and price

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: H1837 with Agenhor module
Functions: Hours, minutes, and date with “time suspended” function
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Hermes boutiques and retailers
Price: US$39,800 in rose gold; US$45,825 in white gold