In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal.

Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism.

Initial thoughts

Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time.

The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch.

When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own.

The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time.

Settimo

Italian for “seven”, settimo refers to the number of links across in the bracelet. It’s comprised of five narrow links in the centre, bookended by two slightly wider links on each end. The look is reminiscent of vintage “beads of rice” bracelets and suits the aesthetic of the 1908.

Unique to the Settimo bracelet is the attachment system in the end links, which is patent pending. Instead of conventional spring bars, the bracelet employs a sprung locking mechanism.

While the links are differ from existing Rolex bracelets, the closure is the same Crownclasp found across the Rolex catalogue. Here the clasp is concealed below the links, but remains the same in terms of mechanics with a spring-loaded tab that locks it in place. And like other Rolex bracelets, the removable links of the Settimo are secured by screws.

The rest of the watch is identical to the version on strap. Inside is the cal. 7140, which was the first of the family of slim movements that is now also found in the Land Dweller as the cal. 7135. Unlike earlier generations of Rolex movements, the cal. 7140 was designed with visuals in mind, resulting in decorative elements like faux chatons and wide striping.

Key facts and price

Rolex Perpetual 1908
Ref. 52508

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 7140
Features: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 66 hours

Strap: Settimo bracelet in 18k yellow gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$35,900; or 51,100 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Rolex.com.

One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration.

Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces.

The regular production models (left), and limited edition

Initial thoughts

The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct.

The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre – the jump hours is part of the base plate – which is a plus.

The Tank à Guichets starts at €43,000 in gold, rising to €55,000 for the “oblique” edition. It is steep for a time-only watch with a fairly basic movement, but in the context of a highly-priced market overall, unavoidable.

As an aside, the “oblique” version is undoubtedly the most interesting, but the execution feels little half-hearted as the discs for the time are identical to those on the regular models. As a result, the hour numeral is 90 degrees off the vertical; fixing that would have been an easy matter of printing a new hour disc.

Windows

The Tank à Guichets returns to the format of the original model that debuted in 1928, nine years after the original Tank (which was a Normale), hence the crown at 12 o’clock. This sets the watch apart from the CPCP versions, which had a conventional crown at three.

The rest of the watch is similarly traditional, with twin windows on a brushed front panel that indicate the time. Each of the windows is in a bevelled frame that is finished in same manner as a movement – the edges are rounded and mirror polished in a technique known as anglage.

The hours disc is jumping, moving one step at the top of each hour, while the minutes below are “dragging”, constantly rotating.

Unlike the prior version of the model, the new Tank à Guichets is powered by an in-house movement, the manual-wind cal. 9755 MC. It’s an entirely new calibre created for the model with an integrated jump hour mechanism, though it is based on the architecture of Cartier’s longstanding workhouse movement.

Like many of Cartier’s recent movements, the cal. 9755 MC is industrial in style and finish as revealed by the milled decoration and Etachron regulator index.

Key facts and price

Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets
Ref. WGTA0237 (platinum “oblique”)
Ref. WGTA0236 (platinum)
Ref. WGTA0235 (rose gold)
Ref. WGTA0234 (yellow gold)

Diameter: 37.6 mm by 24.8 mm
Height: 6 mm
Material: Platinum or 18k gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not water resistant

Movement: 9755 MC
Functions: Jumping hours and “dragging” minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 200 pieces for “oblique”; regular production for the rest
Availability: Now at Cartier boutiques
Price: €43,000 in gold; €50,000 in platinum; €55,000 for “oblique” (prices exclude taxes)

For more, visit cartier.com.