One of the oldest jewellers in the United States, Shreve, Crump & Low (SC&L) has turned to Laurent Ferrier (LF) for the Classic Origin SC&L x LF, a tasteful take on the brand’s manual-wind, time-only wristwatch. Boston-based SC&L was founded in 1796, but the new Classic Origin adopts a restrained aesthetic in blue and bronze that’s a welcome departure from the sector dials and Breguet numerals that characterise many of LF’s recent editions.

Available in either stainless steel or red gold, the SC&L edition is LF116.01, a hand-wind calibre that’s LF’s most accessible movement but still features refined touches like a linear winding click in polished steel.

Initial thoughts

I like the fact that the SC&L edition adopts LF’s signature style while avoiding overused elements like a sector layout in “salmon” or green. This instantly sets the SC&L version apart from most other Classic Origin iterations. Furthermore, the combination of grained blue and satin gold on the dial is unusual but appealing as it gives the watch a contemporary feel that works well with LF’s low-key “Galet” style. And the discreet SC&L logo above the seconds is an elegant touch.

The SC&L edition being a manual-wind Classic Origin is both a pro and a con. It’s an advantage because of affordability; the Classic Origin is LF’s most accessible timepiece; the steel SC&L edition costs US$42,000. However, the calibre inside doesn’t have the same level of detail as the micro-rotor automatic, which admittedly retails for one-and-a-half times as much.

In tangible terms, the SC&L edition is done well. More interestingly, the watch also has historical resonance.

SC&L is probably one of the handful of retailers that boast a history long enough that there exist 19th century Patek Philippe pocket watches bearing the jeweller’s name. In that sense, the new Classic Origin is a historical homage of sorts given Mr Ferrier’s career as a designer and constructor at Patek Philippe.

Tasteful details

The SC&L edition is a riff on the standard Classic Origin. The familiar Galet case is preserved with its 40 mm by 11.1 mm dimensions. Although that’s larger than most dress watches of this genre, the design makes it feel surprisingly compact and elegant.

The dial, on the other hand, is unique to this edition. It’s a novel combination of a textured centre in dark blue (presumably stamped because of the granularity) matched with a minute track in matte gold. The seconds at six is in the same shade of gold, and just above it is a subtle SC&L logo not unlike those found in vintage pocket watches.

Both the red gold and steel versions are the same dial, but with matching hands and hour markers in red or white gold respectively. The contrast is higher on the steel version, which looks a little more modern.

Inside is the LF 116.01 found in most Classic Origin variants. It’s a manual wind movement with an 80 hour power reserve and 3 Hz balance.

The aesthetic is clean with large frosted bridges outlined by polished edges and accented with polished screw heads and jewels in chamfered countersinks. Though the construction and decoration isn’t as elaborate as that of LF’s micro-rotor automatic, the LF 116.01 is still an accomplished calibre in its category.

Key facts and price

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin SC&L x LF
Ref. LCF036.AC.CR1G & LCF036.R5.CR1R

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: 18k red gold or stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: LF 116.01
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Blue calfskin or alligator with matching pin buckle, additional brown calfskin strap

Limited edition: 10 in steel; five in red gold
Availability: From Shreve, Crump & Low
Price: US$42,000 in steel; US$50,000 in red gold

For more, visit Shrevecrumpandlow.com.