The spring auction season is getting underway with the first sale being Phillips’ The Geneva Sessions Spring 2025 taking place online until March 12. The online auction is a warm-up for the Geneva live auction taking place in May, but the 70-lot sale nonetheless includes several interesting timepieces, including some unusual examples from the “neo vintage” era. Essentially watches made in the 1990s to the early 2000s, such watches tend to be good value today; 30 years on they still sell for a fraction of the original retail price.

One of the best known watches from the era, perhaps even iconic, is the Vacheron Constantin Mercator. A double retrograde with hands taking the form of a compass, the Mercator was introduced in 1994 and produced for a decade. A little over 600 were made with most of them having etched brass dials; less common were the examples with cloisonné enamel dials.

The sale includes a Mercator with a map of Portugal dating to 2004, making it one of the final pieces made. Part of a limited edition of just ten watches, this example includes an achieve extract. The Mercator Portugal is lot 19 with an estimate of CHF25,000-50,000.

The enamel dial of the Mercator Portugal

One of the quirkiest watches in the sale is the Alain Silberstein Kronomedio Saphir. The French designer was the first to employ sapphire crystal for the watch case way back in 1997.

An exceptionally expensive watch at the time, the sapphire chronograph illustrated Mr Silberstein’s avant-garde approach to watchmaking and also the pioneering nature of his approach; the technology was not yet available for a great deal of detail in the case construction.

The simple, cylindrical case is entirely clear sapphire crystal, matched with a crown and pushers in coloured sapphire reflecting Alain Silberstein’s trademark colours (which is also found on the trademark two-colour strap). Inside is a Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that was customised for the brand with a frosted finish and coloured movement parts. Notably, the cal. 1185 is more sophisticated than the ETA Valjoux 7750 found in the larger Krono Saphir.

Although this is marked as a limited edition of 50, it is likely that fewer were produced since these are rarely encountered. This has an estimate of CHF5,000-10,000.

The Alain Silberstein Kronomedio Saphir

Lot 53 is an example of peak Jaeger-LeCoultre from the 1990s. Made in 2001 during the brand’s heyday, the Reverso Platinum Number One was the first Reverso in platinum, and also the first Reverso with a skeletonised movement. Notably, the delicate skeletonisation of the venerable workhorse cal. 822 was done in-house at JLC, which had then just set up its own metiers d’art workshop.

Like the best Reverso models of the period, this is a Grande Taille size model, which is arguably just nice for the Reverso design. The Reverso Platinum Number One has an estimate of CHF8,000-12,000.

The JLC Reverso Platinum Number One

A few lots down at lot 60 is the Girard-Perregaux ref. 99500, an elegant, concise minute repeating wristwatch. It has a 39 mm platinum case and guilloche dial, along with a traditionally constructed repeating calibre sporting finger bridges and a swan’s neck regulator. If the movement is familiar, that’s because it was produced by a leading specialist of the period, like many other repeaters at the time.

Interestingly, this is numbered “0”, as was habitual for several brands at the time when it came to top-of-the-line watches. The GP repeater has an estimate of CHF25,000-50,000.

Girard-Perregaux ref. 99500

The online auction is live until March 12, 2025 at 2 pm CET (9 am New York or 9 pm Singapore). To participate, visit Phillips.com.

One of the oldest jewellers in the United States, Shreve, Crump & Low (SC&L) has turned to Laurent Ferrier (LF) for the Classic Origin SC&L x LF, a tasteful take on the brand’s manual-wind, time-only wristwatch. Boston-based SC&L was founded in 1796, but the new Classic Origin adopts a restrained aesthetic in blue and bronze that’s a welcome departure from the sector dials and Breguet numerals that characterise many of LF’s recent editions.

Available in either stainless steel or red gold, the SC&L edition is LF116.01, a hand-wind calibre that’s LF’s most accessible movement but still features refined touches like a linear winding click in polished steel.

Initial thoughts

I like the fact that the SC&L edition adopts LF’s signature style while avoiding overused elements like a sector layout in “salmon” or green. This instantly sets the SC&L version apart from most other Classic Origin iterations. Furthermore, the combination of grained blue and satin gold on the dial is unusual but appealing as it gives the watch a contemporary feel that works well with LF’s low-key “Galet” style. And the discreet SC&L logo above the seconds is an elegant touch.

The SC&L edition being a manual-wind Classic Origin is both a pro and a con. It’s an advantage because of affordability; the Classic Origin is LF’s most accessible timepiece; the steel SC&L edition costs US$42,000. However, the calibre inside doesn’t have the same level of detail as the micro-rotor automatic, which admittedly retails for one-and-a-half times as much.

In tangible terms, the SC&L edition is done well. More interestingly, the watch also has historical resonance.

SC&L is probably one of the handful of retailers that boast a history long enough that there exist 19th century Patek Philippe pocket watches bearing the jeweller’s name. In that sense, the new Classic Origin is a historical homage of sorts given Mr Ferrier’s career as a designer and constructor at Patek Philippe.

Tasteful details

The SC&L edition is a riff on the standard Classic Origin. The familiar Galet case is preserved with its 40 mm by 11.1 mm dimensions. Although that’s larger than most dress watches of this genre, the design makes it feel surprisingly compact and elegant.

The dial, on the other hand, is unique to this edition. It’s a novel combination of a textured centre in dark blue (presumably stamped because of the granularity) matched with a minute track in matte gold. The seconds at six is in the same shade of gold, and just above it is a subtle SC&L logo not unlike those found in vintage pocket watches.

Both the red gold and steel versions are the same dial, but with matching hands and hour markers in red or white gold respectively. The contrast is higher on the steel version, which looks a little more modern.

Inside is the LF 116.01 found in most Classic Origin variants. It’s a manual wind movement with an 80 hour power reserve and 3 Hz balance.

The aesthetic is clean with large frosted bridges outlined by polished edges and accented with polished screw heads and jewels in chamfered countersinks. Though the construction and decoration isn’t as elaborate as that of LF’s micro-rotor automatic, the LF 116.01 is still an accomplished calibre in its category.

Key facts and price

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin SC&L x LF
Ref. LCF036.AC.CR1G & LCF036.R5.CR1R

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: 18k red gold or stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: LF 116.01
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Blue calfskin or alligator with matching pin buckle, additional brown calfskin strap

Limited edition: 10 in steel; five in red gold
Availability: From Shreve, Crump & Low
Price: US$42,000 in steel; US$50,000 in red gold

For more, visit Shrevecrumpandlow.com.

Whimsical and graceful in the typical Hermès style, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune and Arceau Le Temps Voyageur are both unusual takes on familiar complications; the two were incidentally conceived with the aid of Chronode, a complications specialist.

Hermès has reworked the palette for both models, most notably with a two-tone case for the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune. This returns as a set of three watches, each featuring a dial made of a specific type of meteorite, namely Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech. All three are housed in a 43 mm case with contrast-colour lugs.

The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, on the other hand, is offered separately in two guises: 41 mm in white gold, or 38 mm in rose gold with diamonds.

The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune three-piece set

Initial thoughts

Among Hermès’ whimsical complications, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune stands out as an unconventional and interesting reinterpretation of the simple date-and-moon-phase watch. Unlike traditional moon-phase displays, this employs mobile counters that orbit the dial over a 59-day cycle to reveal the current lunar phase. It’s a large watch and a little thick, but still elegant thanks to the design.

The new variants look more modern than their predecessors thanks to the two-tone cases and meteorite dials that sport subtle colour accents that are typically Hermes. The main downside is the fact that the three are delivered as a set, which not only means the cost is high – the set retails for €251,000 – but also owning three of the same watch.

A subtle winged horse motif is found the upper moon, modelled on the Pegasus scarf by Hermes designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko

The Le Temps Voyageur is arguably more practical as a watch with its dual time display, but it still keeps things interesting with the orbital register that shows local time. The new variants are less striking than the L’Heure de la Lune trio, but the larger men’s model stands out with its white-and-blue palette.

Double moon phase

The L’Heure de la Lune is housed in the brand’s signature Arceau case that’s defined by asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs. It features a dual moon-phase display that simultaneously indicates the moon in the Northern and Southern hemispheres, with the age of the moon displayed by the positions of the two rotating sub-dials indicating the time and date. Mounted on a central carousel, the two sub-dials make a full rotation over the course of nearly two months.

The set is made up of three watches — Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech — each named for the type of meteorite used for the dial. Blue Grey Moon is distinguished by a genuine fragment of lunar rock, Vesta incorporates a piece from one of the solar system’s largest asteroids, while Erg Chech features an authentic segment of the eponymous meteorite that landed in the Algerian desert region of the same name.

The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune is powered by the H1837, a Vaucher automatic calibre fitted with the “L’heure de la lune” module developed by Chronode, the Le Locle specialist founded by Jean-François Mojon. The movement offers 40 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

Travel time

The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is available in two variants, each available separately. The larger men’s model has a 41 mm white gold case, while the smaller ladies’ model is 38 mm and rose gold. While different in style and size, both versions of the model feature the “Planisphère d’un Monde Équestre” motif on the dial, an Hermes scarf design that shows a map with continents named after equestrian terms.

The model is equipped with a sophisticated travel time complication that displays home time on a 24-hour scale indicated in the aperture at noon and local time on a mobile counter. The watch also incorporates a world time function with a cities ring representing the 24 time zones. A tiny red pointer on the periphery of the mobile counter points to the current time zone on the cities ring.

This is also driven by the same H1837 made by Vaucher, but equipped with another module of Chronode. The dual time function is controlled by the pusher at nine o’clock.

Key facts and price

Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune
Ref. Blue Grey Moon
Ref. Vesta
Ref. Erg Chech

Case diameter: 43 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white gold; 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: H1837
Functions: Hours, minutes, date and double moon phase
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 12 sets 
Availability: At Hermes boutiques and retailers
Price: €251,000 excluding taxes (sold in a set of three)

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Ref. Or blanc
Ref. Or rose et diamants

Case diameter: 41 mm or 38 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white gold; 18k rose gold set with diamonds
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: H1837
Functions: Hours, minutes, and second time zone with city indication
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Hermes boutiques and retailers
Price: €37,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Hermes.com.

Phillips Perpetual will shortly open a three-day exhibition dedicated to independent watchmaking at its London showroom. Independent Spirit will comprise five notable watchmakers whose work encapsulate the diversity of the genre: Konstantin Chaykin, Raúl Pagès, Theo Auffret, Charles Frodsham, and David Candaux.

The watch boutique arm of the eponymous auctioneer, Phillips Perpetual conceived the exhibition as a small-scale event that will allow personal interaction with each of the watchmakers, or in the case of the long-departed Charles Frodsham, the brand’s representatives.

The exhibition will be a rare opportunity to meet some of the leading lights of independent watchmaking. Amongst them is Raúl Pagès, a true artisanal watchmaker in the traditional sense. Mr Pages will have on hand examples of the Soberly Onyx, his inaugural watch, and the RP1 Régulateur à détente that won him the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize.

Raúl Pagès

While all of the other watchmakers at the exhibition are relatively young, Charles Frodsham is a continuously-operating, centuries-old brand – proof that independent watchmaking innovation can come from unexpected places.

The movement of the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

The only watchmaker absent is Konstantin Chaykin, who unfortunately was not able to travel for the exhibition due to travel restrictions resulting from his nationality. That’s unfortunately as the Russian watch- and clockmaker is a technician and artist whom I respect tremendously, but fortunately his creations will be on display at the event.

Independent Spirit is open to the public daily 10 am-6 pm from March 13-15, 2025.

Phillips
30 Berkeley Square
London W1J 6EX
United Kingdom