The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH.

Initial thoughts

Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers.

The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced.

At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling.

Red gradient dial

The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif.

Powering the watch is CD.001, a Zenith El Primero 400 dressed in monochromatic livery for Dior, including a patterned rotor. It operates at a high frequency of 5 Hz and offers a 48-hour power reserve.

Key facts and price

Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph
Ref. CD08461X1447_0000

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Material: Stainless steel with black DLC coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: CD.001 (Zenith El Primero)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Dior boutiques, retailers and Dior.com
Price: US$17,000

For more information, visit Dior.com.

We are pleased to announce the launch of the SJX Podcast, which is now an official part of our programming. The podcast will be regular and topical (though the very first instalment was an ad hoc collector conversation).

In the official inaugural episode, editor Brandon Moore and SJX talk about the state of the industry and Swiss watch export figures, the developments at LVMH watches, including Louis Vuitton’s investment in a state-of-the-art manufacture and Zenith’s evolution into a watchmaker’s watchmaker.

They also look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, and discuss what’s on the cards for brands big and small.

The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.

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