Gérald Genta distinctive, punkish “urchin” wristwatch gains a striking new look with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. Each of the 137 studs on the case carries a fire opal, while the dial is in orange carnelian that echoes the gemstones’ hue.

Mined from Mexico’s volcanic regions, fire opals stones derive their characteristic yellow, orange, or red pigmentation from water trapped in cooling lava.

Initial thoughts

Although the Gérald Genta brand was revived in 2023, well after the iconic designer’s passing in 2011, the brand has stuck closely to his original vision and style. The modern-day Oursin is a faithful remake of the 1994 original, a little larger in size but retaining all of the original’s quirky details, including the facetted crystal.

Unlike the fairly muted models unveiled last year, the new Oursin is bright and bold. While it incorporates gemstones and colours that found on the original (which was also fairly muted), the orange hue feels perfectly appropriate for the design. It is an apt evolution of the original, and the late Genta would have approved.

Fire opals

While the new Oursin differs from Genta’s original with its fire opals and carnelian, the core design elements remain faithful to his blueprint.

Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the case measures 36.5 mm in diameter and 9.64 mm in thickness, making it slightly larger than the original. The case is studded with 137 fire opals, each individually secured with 18k yellow gold pins. An orange carnelian dial that complements the gems’ hue is covered by a faceted crystal, another hallmark of Genta’s designs.

Powering the watch is the cal. GG-005, which is actually a Zenith Elite and an upgrade over the 1990s original’s ETA 2892. It’s an automatic movement that runs at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 50 hours of power reserve. Here it’s dressed up with a rotor in 18k yellow gold.

Key facts and price

Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Diameter: 36.5 mm
Height: 9.6 mm
Material: Yellow gold 3N with 137 fire opal gems
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: GG-005 (Zenith Elite)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hours (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Black alligator leather

Limited edition: No, but limited production
Availability: Available starting May 2025
Price: Price on request

For more information, visit Geraldgenta.com