To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour.

Initial thoughts

The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord.

Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition.

The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials.

Exquisite dial work

The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting.

The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels and burins, working under a microscope. The dial is then cleaned and polished.

Black lacquer is then carefully added for shadow and depth. That’s followed by another round of polishing and then traditional guilloché applied by a hand-operated straight line engine. Finally, a translucent green lacquer is applied to create the hues of green on the leaves.

The watch retains the familiar Classique case, which measures 40 mm wide and stands just 6.5 mm high thanks to the extra-slim cal. 502.3 inside. One of Breguet’s workhorse automatic calibres, the cal. 502.3 has been utilised by the brand for decades, and is characterised by its off-centre layout and open barrel.

Key facts and price

Breguet Classique Snake
Ref. 7145BR/15/9WU 06

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 6.5 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 502.3
Functions: Hours, and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: Eight pieces
Availability: Now at Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$74,600

For more information, visit Breguet.com.