One of the largest watch retailers in the world, Watches of Switzerland (WOS) marks its centenary in 2024. It has worked with several brands on limited editions for the occasion, most recently Ulysse Nardin. Based on Ulysse Nardin’s flagship Freak model, the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland Centenary Exclusive” sports a striking purple dial of crystalium, which is actually crystallised ruthenium.

Starting as a single shop in 1924, WOS is now a publicly-listed group with several retail brands in its stable and annual revenue of just over US$2 billion. Its scale means that several brands have signed on to create anniversary editions for the company, including including Cartier, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The Freak S, however, is the most complicated of the centenary editions so far.

Initial thoughts

The most impressive Freak in Ulysse Nardin’s current catalogue, the Freak S scores highly in terms of construction, and innovation. Its double inclined balance wheels are a logical evolution of the original concept.

In terms of aesthetics, the WOS edition is the most striking to date. The original iteration with its two-tone, rose gold-and-titanium case was perhaps old-fashioned for such a modern watch. The more recent Freak S Nomad, in contrast, presents a refined, artisanal face with a hand guilloche dial – a contrast of sci-fi watchmaking and traditional decoration.

The WOS edition is uniformly sci-fi. The carousel sits on a textured, crystalline purple plate. It’s an appealing look – the bold, unusual colour is arguably perfect match for the radical styling and construction of the Freak. Moreover, it brings to mind historical Freak models that often employed colours for visual effect, like the Freak Blue Phantom.

Costing about 10% more than the Freak S Nomad, the WOS edition is fairly priced, especially since it’s the only Freak with a crystalium dial so far and a small run of just 10 pieces. However, the value proposition could change if Ulysse Nardin introduces additional variants with the same dial material.

Crystallised ruthenium

The WOS edition is fundamentally identical to the standard Freak S, which means the centrepiece is the large, spaceship-like carousel on the front that carries twin inclined balanced wheels linked by a differential.

The Freak S was conceived as the ultimate iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s landmark creation, with the double inclined balances providing additional chronometric performance, plus the patented Grinder automatic winding enhancing user friendliness.

On the WOS edition, however, the carousel sits on a crystalium plate that’s a vivid, sparkly purple.

Crystalium is actually crystallised ruthenium. Specifically, it is ruthenium that’s been vaporised and then deposited onto the dial plate. The thin deposited ruthenium layer has a crystalline structure, giving it a sparkly finish. Grey in its natural state, the ruthenium layer is then plated via physical vapour deposition, resulting in the striking purple dial.

The technique used to produce the crystalium dial can be varied to create other colours, which means it’s possible we’ll see this dial material return in another shade.

The WOS edition has the same dimensions as the standard Freak S, but in a two-tone titanium. The case middle is coated dark grey, while the bezel and locking tab retain the alloy’s natural grey finish. It’s a clean, low-key combination that complements the purple dial.

The open back reveals the UN-251, a movement that is automatic thanks to the Grinder winding mechanism. Constructed to deliver high winding torque, the Grinder can wind the large mainspring swiftly and effectively. (We explained its specifics in an earlier story on the Freak.)

Automatic winding aside, the Freak S can also be wound manually by turning the case back, as is tradition with the Freak from the very first generation.

Key facts and price

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Watches of Switzerland Centenary
Ref. 2513-500LE-7A-WOS/3A

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 16.65 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UN-251
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Only at Watches of Switzerland
Price: US$163,500 excluding taxes

For more, visit Ulysse-nardin.com and Watchesofswitzerland.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Ulysse Nardin.

The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago.

The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand.

Initial thoughts

The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet.

The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial.

Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial and a competent in-house movement – but with a retrograde display.

Retrograde mechanics

The Retrograde Seconds is sized similar to existing Pioneer models, with chunky, sporty dimensions. The stainless steel case is 42.8 mm in diameter and 10.6 mm in thickness without the crystal; with the domed sapphire crystal, the height is significantly thicker at 14.2 mm.

Water resistant to 120 m, the case also features recessed flanks decorated with vertical ribbing patterns inspired by the intake vents of sports cars.

The midnight blue fumé dial is typical minimalist Moser with an “secret” logo just under 12 o’clock that’s printed in transparent lacquer. The flange around the edge of the dial is marked with luminous dots for the hours while the leaf-shaped hands are filled with Super-LumiNova.

The highlight is the 30-second retrograde counter that’s modelled on a speedometer. It’s partially skeletonised to reveal the finger and double-snail cam that trigger the 30-second jump of the hand.

The finger travels along the outline of the snail cam until it reaches the step on the snail, which causes the finger to drop and the seconds hand to jump back to zero. This process is driven by a small spring  just visible under the seconds hand axis. The spring, in turn, is connected to a rack that positions the seconds hand.

The Retrograde Seconds is powered by the HMC 250, an in-house calibre with a three-day power reserve. It is decorated with an anthracite finish that Moser now employs on its more modern designs.

The HMC 250 a reworked variant of the HMC 200, Moser’s workhorse automatic movement, with open-worked bridges to reveal the wheels. In addition, it’s fitted with an Agenhor retrograde seconds module on the front.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
Ref. 3250-1200

Case diameter: 42.8 mm
Case height: 10.6 mm without sapphire crystal; 14.2 mm with sapphire crystal
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 250
Functions: Hours, minutes, and retrograde seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator leather, rubber, or textile strap; or steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF19,900

For more, visit h-moser.com.

Christie’s has just announced Watches for ELA, a thematic auction of 11 watches, mostly one-of-a-kind, to benefit the European Leukodystrophy Association (ELA), which supports research into the disorder. The brands that have created watches for the sale include Bovet, Konstantin Chaykin, Girard-Perregaux, Swatch, and most crucially from a value perspective, Richard Mille.

While Christie’s is best known for staging Only Watch, a biennial charity auction, the ELA auction is notable for being the brainchild of François-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns brands like Gucci and Balenciaga. Mr Pinault is on the board of ELA, while Christie’s is owned privately by the Pinault family.

Each timepiece in the ELA auction is offered without reserve, with all proceeds going to ELA. The sale takes place on November 11, 2024 as part of Christie’s customary Rare Watches auction. The catalogue and online bidding will be available at end October.

Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Dark Yellow Quartz TPT

The flagship offering in the sale, and the only watch with a six figure estimate, the RM 65-01 is one of the most complicated Richard Mille watches, the RM 65-01 is powered by a high-frequency, self-winding rattrapante chronograph movement made by Vaucher.

This example is part of a 120-piece limited edition that’s the latest iteration of the RM 65-01. It sports yellow Quartz TPT carbon composite case and is the first RM 65-01 in yellow Quartz TPT to be sold at auction.

The RM65-01 has an estimate of CHF350,000-450,000.

Ataelier Haute Complication Dual Time for ELA

Founded by Vladimir Négault in 2018, Ataelier Haute Complication made its debut with the Dual Time powered by the Architecture Mecanique No. 1 movement. This version of the Dual Time is unique with pink hands and hour numerals, along with a pink-filled “Geneve” engraved on the bezel.

The Dual Time indicates twin time zones, with local time on the large sub-dial, while home time is shown in an arc-shaped window across the upper half of the dial. The home time display also incorporates a day-night indicator via a Sun or Moon emblem next to the triangular pointer.

Mr Négault was a constructor at F.P. Journe for several years before striking out on his own, and some design elements of the Dual Time bring to mind F.P. Journe’s aesthetics. Mr Négault’s technical construction skills are evident in the movement, which is based on the Peseux 7001 but cleverly rearranges the gear train to create a larger and more original looking calibre.

The estimate is CHF10,000-20,000.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Eternity ELA Special Edition

A piece unique, this Laureato 42 mm is set apart by fired enamel dial in translucent purple that reveals the guilloché below. The standard versions of the Laureato Eternity feature blue or green enamel dials. The Laureato has an estimate of CHF20,000-30,000.

Konstantin Chaykin Seneca ELA Special Edition

A tribute to the Roman philosopher, the Seneca is a variant of Konstantin Chaykin’s signature Wristmon. Inspired by ancient Roman theatre masks, the unusual dial has a moon phase at six and date in the forehead, while the time is indicated by the two “eyes”.

Over the course of a month, the date numerals complete the Latin expression recte facti fecisse merces est, a quote by Seneca that translates as “The reward of an act done well is to have done it”.

The Seneca has an estimate of CHF15,000-25,000.

Louis Erard Noirmont Marqueterie ELA Special Edition

Based on the standard model, the Noirmont Marqueterie has a marquetry dial crafted from over 70 tiny pieces of wood, namely walnut burl at its centre and tulip tree wood dyed green. The dial is made by marquetry artisan Bastien Chevalier, based in St. Croix.

The Noirmont Marqueterie has an estimate of CHF4,000-8,000.

Omega x Swatch Millionth MoonSwatch

This MoonSwatch is the one-millionth example of the cheap and cheerful watch that helped to revive interest in Swatch. It’s a Mission to Neptune model with a blue Bioceramic case and a centre seconds hand plated in Moonshine gold, the propriety yellow gold alloy of Swatch Group. The inside of the case is engraved with its millionth-unit status and the watch is delivered with a trophy engraved “1,000,000”.

The millionth MoonSwatch has an estimate of CHF500-1,000.

Auction information

Rare Watches and Watches for ELA take place on November 11, 2024 at the Four Seasons in Geneva. The catalogue will be available on Christies.com at end October.