H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag.

Initial thoughts

As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal.

Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date.

Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial.

Minimalism

While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange.

Designed as a sporty version of Moser’s traditional case shape, the case has sculpted lines with angular and bevelled lugs, along with fluted case sides that resemble intake vents – a quirky detail that elevates the appeal. The case is stainless steel, with a relatively thin bezel that centres attention on the dial, while the dimensions are 42.8 mm wide and 15 mm thick.

The movement

The watch is driven by the brand’s workhorse HMC 200 caliber. Visually restrained in comparison to the brand’s higher-end calibers, the HMC 200 nevertheless boasts some trademark Moser movement elements such as the moustache-shaped balance bridge and the alternating wide and narrow Geneva stripes. The movement employs a bi-directional, pawl winding system and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red
Ref. 3200-1207

Diameter: 42.8 mm
Height: 15.0 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 200
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber

Availability: Now at authorised retailers
Price: 12,900 Swiss francs

For more information, visit H-moser.com.