Hands-On: MB&F HM8 Mark 2 in Blue CarbonMacrolon

Finished in blue automotive paint.

MB&F has released the third instalment of its automobile-inspired wristwatch, the HM8 Mark 2. Now in blue CarbonMacrolon, the latest HM8 Mark 2 follows on the green and white iterations introduced last year. Inspired by 1970s sports cars like the Lamborghini Miura, the new Mark 2 retains the model’s signature speedometer-like display for the time and “double bubble” sapphire crystal.

Although the CarbonMacrolon panels of the case are also found on earlier versions, the material has been tweaked to incorporate ingredients also found in automotive paint, giving the case a metallic, sparkly blue finish resembling a car’s paintwork.

Initial thoughts

Though only a cosmetic update to the model, the latest HM8 Mark 2 is the most striking to date. Though the change of colour might seem like a trivial matter, the new paintwork is a perfect complement to the styling and concept of the watch – the metallic finish really does evoke the paintwork of a high-end automobile. Interestingly, the new Mark 2 feels sleeker than the earlier versions thanks to the paintwork, even though the watch is identical in dimensions and form.

The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version, and the same movement is visible in the “engine bay” through the sloping sapphire crystal. The Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F’s base movement of choice almost since its founding two decades ago, so something more interesting would be a useful upgrade, particularly since the movement is front and centre in many of the brand’s watches.

Priced at CHF73,000, the new HM8 Mark 8 is costs about the same as the preceding version. Visually, it’s more compelling than its predecessors, making it an easy choice for anyone who appreciates the automotive aesthetic.

The time can be read with hands on a steering wheel. Image – MB&F

A driver’s watch

Defined by its unconventional aesthetics, the Horological Machine (HM) series draws on the mind of MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser, resulting in a line-up inspired by architecture, sci-fi, and automobiles. As with the HM5 and HMX, the HM8 Mark 2 reflects Mr Büsser’s childhood fascination with sports cars, hence the “driver’s” watch display on the front edge of the case. The automative inspiration is also made more tangible with the sweeping silhouette of the case modelled on the rear of a Lamborghini Miura.

The case is titanium with CarbonMacrolon panels on the top and bottom, akin to the body of a car. Like other carbon composites used in watchmaking, CarbonMacrolon is a resin strengthened with carbon nanotubes. It’s a hard, lightweight material that can be worked almost like metal with brushing or blasting.

But instead of the more conventional colouring found in earlier versions of the HM8 Mark 2, this new model relies on a type of CarbonMacrolon that includes metallic pigments similar to those used in automotive paint. This gives it the unusual sparkly finish.

Although the case seems relatively large in terms of dimensions, it measures 47 mm by 41.5 mm by 19 mm, the sleek form and compact footprint leave it surprisingly wearable. The fact that the case doesn’t have lugs also helps.

The rest of the watch has the same features and specs as the earlier versions of the model. Time is indicated via discs on the movement that are “projected” onto twin sapphire windows on the front edge of the case, a display that is inspired by speedometers in vintage cars.

The time display module is made up of a bi-directional jumping hour and “dragging” minutes, which was developed in-house by MB&F. This sits on a Girard-Perregaux cal. 3100 base movement that’s been fitted with MB&F’s trademark 22k gold “battle-axe” rotor.

Another proprietary aspect of the movement is the “double de-clutch” mechanism for the crown. Instead of pulling or unscrewing, the crown is released by pressing it in and giving it three-quarters of a turn. According to MB&F, this construction reduces the volume of space required for the crown.

Notably, the MB& module for the time and crown is visible on the back of the watch, rather than the front. The module is fitted with an engine-inspired plate that includes twin gold chatons for the pivot jewels of the time display.


Key facts and price

MB&F HM8 Mark 2

Diameter: 47 mm x 41.5 mm
Height: 19 mm
Material: Blue CarbonMacrolon; titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Girard-Perregaux base movement with a jumping hour and trailing minutes modules
Functions: Jumping hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: White calfskin leather strap with a titanium tang buckle

Limited edition: 33 pieces
Availability: Available at MB&F boutiques and retailers starting April 2024
Price: CHF73,000

For more, visit mbandf.com


 

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