Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

The brand's first dual time zone gets an update.

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411.

This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case.

Initial thoughts

The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design.

It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable.

Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less enthused by the substantial production of 4,000 pieces, which diminishes its rarity. However, this aspect can be pardoned considering its affordability.

A modern take

The SPB411 is a reimagining of the original Navigator Timer introduced in 1968. It has a tonneau-shaped case with a crown at four and a brushed grey dial with applied baton markers. The crucial rotating bezel has also made a return, featuring a black-filled, engraved 24-hour scale and a white pip at the 24-hour mark.

The primary difference between the remake and the original lies in the dial design. While retaining its radial brushed finish, the remake eliminates “Waterproof” below 12 and enlarges the size of the date window at three, resulting in a less cluttered dial.

Furthermore, the watch preserves the style of the original with compact dimensions, measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm high. The remaining aspects of the design adhere to the traditional Seiko aesthetic, with brushed surfaces along the case and a screw-down case back. Similarly, Seiko has treated the case with a “super-hard coating” that according to the brand, enhances scratch resistance.

The SPB411 is equipped with the cal. 6R54, which is also found in the Prospex Diver’s GMT. This is a modified version of the automatic cal. 6R35 movement, incorporating a second time zone hand and extending the power reserve to 72 hours.

To configure the second time zone, one must first set the watch to local time and then engage the crown in its second position, then turning it clockwise advances the 24-hour hand while turning it counterclockwise adjusts the date.

Key facts and price

Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition
Ref. SPB411

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and second time zone hand
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: 4,000 pieces
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and retailers starting November 2023
Price: US$1,600

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