One of Patek Philippe’s longest standing and most important retailers in Asia, Cortina Watch celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2022. In that half century, Cortina has grown from a single store in Singapore to one of the biggest retailers in Southeast Asia with a network of 45 stores and remains controlled by the founding Lim family. As it was with its 25th anniversary in 1997, Cortina is marking the milestone with a limited edition Patek Philippe – the same model in a different guise in fact.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” preserves the design of the earlier anniversary edition, but dresses it up in a more contemporary grey and silver livery. Importantly, the ref. 5057 was a brand-new reference conceived for Cortina, which means the new edition is only the second time that the reference is seeing light of day.
The ref. 5057G is notable in several ways. For one, it is unusual amongst retailer editions in having complications instead of being a time-and-date Calatrava, no doubt a reflection of the especially strong ties between the Stern and Lim families. Second, the ref. 5057G harks back to the watchmaker’s aesthetic of the 1990s with its dial and hobnail bezel. This sets it apart from Patek Philippe’s recent watches, which mostly have a more contemporary style.
And the ref. 5057G is intrinsically attractive. I have yet to see the watch in person, but I’ve examined the preceding ref. 5057R several times and it is a handsome, elegant watch that feels like a typical Patek Philippe of its era. Both the hobnail bezel and asymmetric dial layout are the most important – and most appealing – elements of its design.
Revisiting the Jubilee
The new ref. 5057G is a throwback to the limited edition in rose gold that Patek Philippe put together for Cortina’s 25th anniversary, the Cortina Jubilee edition that was also a 100-piece run.
“We have retained the aesthetic codes of the 25th anniversary Calatrava, launched in 1997, for the 50th anniversary limited edition,” explains Jeremy Lim, chief executive officer of Cortina Watch, “This is in homage to the past and present leaders of both companies who have nurtured our longstanding partnership. I hope that it will continue to strengthen over the next 50 years, and with the next generations after us.”
The ref. 5057G preserves both the design and movement of the Jubilee edition, including the all-important triple hobnail bezel.
But the dial now gets a radially brushed, metallic grey finish that darkens towards the edges. All the of the markings on the dial are white, while the hands are rhodium plated to match the case.
Visible through the open back is the cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, a variation of the micro-rotor calibre that is one of Patek Philippe best known movements, being widely used across its model range thanks to its slim profile.
Better known for being inside the Nautilus ref. 5712, the movement incorporates a pair of useful complications, namely date and power reserve, and a romantic one, the moon phase.
Key facts and price
Patek Philippe Calatrava “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Diameter: 36.5 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 240 PS IRM C LU
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase, and power reserve
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38-48 hours
Strap: Alligator with white gold folding clasp
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 75,000 Singapore dollars including GST (approximately US$55,700)
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