Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial.

The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer.

But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial.

The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue

Initial thoughts

I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece.

But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit.

That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the market.

Still, having the calendar’s ingenious features such as its bi-directional setting outlined on the dial no doubt leaves the wearer more relaxed when fiddling with the watch, which is not usually the case with traditional perpetual calendars that are prone to go wrong with inept adjustment.

The obvious downside of the Tutorial is the limited production of just 20 pieces, a small number when set against the fervent demand for watches from “independent” brands, especially one that’s intriguing as this is. But the good news is that the standard-dial Funky Blue perpetual calendar will join the regular collection.

Regulation production and low key with a hidden logo

Fool-proof mechanics and displays

Regarded as one of the most thoughtfully engineered perpetual calendar movements on the market, the HMC 800 was originally developed by Andreas Strehler and boasts several user-friendly features.

It can be adjusted forwards and backwards at any time via the crown, eliminating the risk of damage associated with setting most traditional perpetual calendars. And the long power reserve of seven days also make setting the calendar less of a necessity.

For those who are already familiar with the trademark minimalist perpetual calendar, the schematics on the dial of the Tutorial merely serve as decoration. But for those who are new to the brand, the user guide is useful and should relive some of the tension that might arise when confronting a perpetual calendar for the first time,

The dial schematics are surprisingly details. For instance, there’s a tiny track around the shortest hand that notes the months of the year with their first letter, illustrating that fact that the discreet hand is a month-of-the-year indicator (and might have gone unnoticed at first glance).

The note at one o’clock reminds the user that the leap year indicator is on the back, while markings at nine o’clock proudly state the length of the power reserve and its source of power

At the same time, some notes on the dial are there to call attention to the most interesting features of the watch, such as the instantaneous date jump that happens around midnight, and of course the rare appearance of “29” at the end of February once every four years that is highlighted in yellow.

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar
Ref. 1800-0204 (Funky Blue)
Ref. 1800-0205 (Tutorial)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: HMC 800
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and perpetual calendar
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 7 days

Strap: Beige kudu leather with 18k white gold folding buckle

Limited edition: 20 pieces for the Tutorial version
Availability: Now at H.Moser & Cie authorised retailers
Price:
Funky Blue – US$60,000
Tutorial – US$65,000

For more, visit h-moser.com.