For the first time in several years Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s line-up at SIHH 2017 was not dominated by the Reverso, instead being heavy on relatively affordable round watches with simple complications.

The popular vote the fair went to the trio of Master Control watches with retro “sector” dials. Also known as “scientific” dials, such dials with segments for easier time measurement were mostly made in the 1940s to 1950s, but have recently become popular in vintage watch collecting. That has spilled over into modern timepieces and Jaeger-LeCoultre is the latest to join the bandwagon.

Although such watches are not historically associated with Jaeger-LeCoultre, not even with a lot of imagination and research, the Master Control “sector” dials are good looking timepieces.

All share two-tone silver dials with pale blue accents – even the date numerals are blue – matched with skeletonised pencil-shaped hands. Appealingly simple but distinctive, the dials are nonetheless simply constructed, with all of the markings being printed, possibly explaining why these cost about 10% less than comparable Master models with applied markers on the dial.

The base model is the Master Control Date (ref. 1548530), a 39mm automatic in a slim, 8.5mm high steel case. It’s powered by the calibre 899, the brand’s basic self-winding movement with a shortish 38-hour power reserve. This costs €5900 or S$8800.

The Master Control Chronograph (ref. 1538530) also passes well for a vintage watch, being 40mm in diameter and 12.1mm high. Admirably it has no date window, preserving the retro feel.

This has the calibre 751G inside, an automatic movement with all the features expected of a mid- to high-end chronograph calibre, namely a column wheel and vertical clutch. It costs €8300 or S$12,400.

The last of the three is the Master Control Geographic (ref. 1428530), a dual time zone with world time that looks the most modern of the three.

The dial layout gives it a contemporary feel, but it is functional, with the second time zone at six o’clock and the cities disc just below.

The crown at 11 o’clock sets the second time zone, while the movement inside is the automatic calibre 939B/1.

This costs €9800 or S$14,600.

Part of the same collection but more modern looking are the new Master Ultra Thin watches. The Master Ultra Thin Moon (ref. 1363540) is now available in white gold with a dark grey dial. While not novel it is a good look, with the case being 39mm in diameter.

The centre second hand and date pointer at six o’clock look incongruous together though. This is priced at €19,400.

More striking is the Master Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche (ref. 1378480) in stainless steel with a rich blue dial. Also 39mm in diameter, this has three useful indications on sub-dials, and a blue dial with a thin layer of varnish that gives it a good gloss.

The movement inside is the automatic calibre 938/1.

It costs €8650 or S$13,000.

Furnished with a blue dial in the same colour is the Master Ultra Thin Small Second (ref. 1358480) in steel. Slightly larger at 40mm in diameter, this is a slim 7.6mm high with the calibre 896 inside.

It costs €7350 or S$11,000.

The last addition to the Master line is a sports watch, the Master Compressor Chronograph in ceramic with pink gold accents. This 46mm sports chronograph was already available in ceramic with the pushers and crown in steel; the pink gold additions are new.

One of the most complicated watches unveiled at the fair was the Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time (ref. 8126420). This has a domed-shaped dial in blue lacquer featuring a world map as well as a one-minute tourbillon on one edge, two complications that might be interesting separately but less so together.

The tourbillon carriage makes one revolution a second, but the dial itself goes round every 24 hours, making it an orbital tourbillon as well.

Like conventional world time watches, this shows the 24 time zones in the world, and can be set in one hour steps.

The case is platinum and 43.5mm in diameter, making it large and hefty. A see-through back reveals the calibre 948, an automatic movement with an attractive cast solid gold rotor. The rest of the movement, however, is plain, with a large bridge that covers most of it.

The Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time is a limited edition of 100 watches priced at €130,000.

The other addition to the Geophysic range is a new bracelet, available for both the Geophysic True Second and Geophysic Universal Time. Solidly built and five links wide, the bracelet’s key feature is a quick-release lever on the inside near the lug.

Lifting the lever retracts the tips of the spring bars, allowing the bracelet to be quickly removed. A strap (assuming it has quick-release spring bars as well), can then be swiftly attached.

The bracelet is an extra €1700 or so. So the Geophysic True Second on bracelet (ref. 8018120) costs €10,800 or S$16,000, while the Geophysic Universal Time on the same (ref. 8108120) is €16,100 or S$23,500.

The 2017 line-up also encompasses round ladies’ watches, namely variants of the Rendez-Vous. The Rendez-Vous Sonatina features a reminder function, with a small star on the dial that sets a striking mechanism which sounds a single chime on the appointed hour. At six o’clock a night and day indicator sits inside a small aperture.

This is 38.5mm in diameter and available in pink or white gold. While the pink gold is sedately colour, the white gold model features a grained, amethyst dial.

Inside is the self-winding calibre 735, a relatively thick movement due to the addition of the alarm function. This means the case is 10.59mm high, substantial for a delicate ladies’ watch.

This costs S$59,500 in white gold (ref. Q3593480) and S$42,500 or S$29,100 in pink gold (ref. 3592420).

The Rendez-Vous Night & Day is available either in large (38.2mm) or medium (34mm) sizes. Both have identical functions, with a night and day indicator at six o’clock.

Notably, while the large model is available in steel or pink gold, the medium version is only available in less common yellow gold (ref. 3441420).

The Rendez-Vous Night & Day Large in steel starts at €9150, while the pink gold with diamonds is €23,500.

Visually similar is the Rendez-Vous Moon, available in the ordinary 36mm size or as the 34mm Rendez-Vous Moon Medium.

This has a large moon phase display at six o’clock. This starts at €15,300 or S$23,500 in steel with a diamond bezel.

The Reverso highlights from the 2017 line-up both continue the Reverso Tribute aesthetic characterised by dauphine hands and a grained dial introduced in 2016.

The first is the hand-wound Reverso Tribute Duoface (ref. 3902420) in pink gold that can show two different time zones on each face of the watch, thanks to the clever calibre 854A/2 inside.

This is a compact 25.5mm wide and 42.9mm long, about the size of the Reverso Grande Taille. It costs €20,000 or S$29,500.

The Reverso Tribute Moon in stainless steel (ref. 3958420) is similar, with two time zones and the addition of a date and moon phase display on the front dial.

Larger at 29.9mm wide and 49.4mm long, it’s hand-wound and powered by the calibre 853A. It costs €13,200 or S$19,500.

Having eased out top management earlier in the year in the wake of a 51% drop in first half profits, Richemont is now turning to its subsidiary brands.

Bloomberg reported earlier today that the chief executives of Dunhill, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Piaget will be leaving, confirming speculation that had been brewing since last year.

Swiss newspaper Le Temps also identified the incoming chief executives of each brand, which it said had been broadcast on Richemont’s internal network on Monday afternoon. The background of each of the incoming chief executives provide a hint as to the direction each of the brands are expected to take.

Piaget chief executive Philippe Leopold-Metzger will retire after 17 years on the job, to be replaced by Chabi Nouri, who currently oversees the marketing and communications department. With a background in marketing first at Cartier’s jewellery division and then British American Tobacco, Ms Nouri will be the first female to lead a Richemont brand.

Vacheron Constantin’s chief executive, Juan-Carlos Torres, will exit after a 12-year tenure. Louis Ferla, the recently appointed director of sales and marketing who had previously spent most of his career in China and Hong Kong, will replace Mr Torres.

Both outgoing chiefs are close to the Swiss luxury conglomerate’s retirement age, and will be elevated to non-executive presidents at their respective firms, which have been the target of worker protests in response to layoffs.

Daniel Riedo, the chief executive of Jaeger-LeCoultre for the last three years, will leave Richemont altogether. Replacing him in the interim is Georges Kern, the outgoing IWC head who was recently promoted to run Richemont’s entire watch division.

There is some irony in the changes at Jaeger-LeCoultre, given that Riedo’s predecessor, Jerome Lambert, who held the job for over a decade, is known to be Kern’s rival within Richemont.

Meanwhile the top job at underperforming menswear label Dunhill will go to Burberry executive Andrew Maag, replacing Fabrizio Cardinali who left earlier in January.

Source: Bloomberg and Le Temps

Update February 1, 2017: Incoming chief executives named by Le Temps added.

IWC offered a peek at the revamped Da Vinci before SIHH 2017, revealing a design decidedly more conventional than its predecessor.

Large, round and classically styled, the new Da Vinci is attractive in the metal, with a diversity of models that are all comparatively reasonably priced, even the complicated models.

All models feature swivelling lugs that help the watch sit well on most wrists, despite the largish sizes. High domed sapphire crystals add a refined feel to the case, an impression helped by the applied Arabic numerals on the dials and frequent use of blued steel hands. And as is a habit for IWC now, all the Da Vinci watches are fitted to straps made of antiqued leather from Italian shoemaker Santoni.

The flagship of the line is the Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph. Though conservatively looking the movement inside the watch is noteworthy. A new calibre derived from the 89000 family movements, the automatic calibre 89900 inside features a flyback chronograph, retrograde date, and hacking tourbillon.

The 89900 movement is notable for two features. First the pallet fork and escape wheel made of diamond-coated silicon, a hard, non-magnetic and temperature resistant material that’s been used by other watchmakers but is a first for IWC.

And both escapement components feature a new, skeletonised design that brings with it improved efficiency, one reason behind the fact that the movement manages the same 68-hour power reserve as the basic chronograph-only calibre despite its extra complications of date and tourbillon.

And the second notable feature is the hacking tourbillon. Pull the crown to set the time and a pair of lever touch the balance wheel, stopping it and the tourbillon carriage, allowing for more precise setting of the time.

The twin levers of the bi-directional Pellaton winding mechanism that’s an IWC trademark

At imposing 44mm wide and 17mm high, the watch is big, almost inelegant, but satisfying hefty, helped by the fact that the movement is technically interesting.

Available only in red gold, the Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (ref.IW393101) is priced at US$103,000.

Perhaps the most compelling watch in the collection is the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This harks back to the best known of Da Vinci models, the perpetual calendar chronograph of 1985, a bestseller that was a landmark for combining the two complications affordably, with the no-nonsense Valjoux 7750 as a base movement.

That throwback is meaningless in itself, but IWC managed to channel the 1985 original with the new model, while improving its technical specs and keeping it competitively priced.

The new perpetual calendar chronograph combines IWC’s proprietary perpetual calendar mechanism (which has all the calendar indications synchronised and can only be set only forwards via the crown), with the calibre 89000 chronograph movement.

The resulting watch is biggish, being 43mm in diameter and 15.5mm high, but appropriately sized for modern tastes and just small enough to go under a cuff.

Both the steel and red gold versions have a dark blue sub-dial at 12 o’clock to highlight the moon phase display. Resembling aventurine, the sparkly quartz mineral often used for moon phase displays, the sub-dial is actually metal, galvanised blue with white gold specks for the stars, which is a tiny let-down.

The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is priced at US$29,900 in stainless steel (ref. IW392103) with a dark grey dial, and US$40,200 in red gold (ref. IW392101) with a silver dial.

The new line only includes one pure chronograph, that is to say only a stopwatch without other complications. That will likely change, but for now the only options is the Da Vinci Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation”. It’s a limited edition, but the Da Vinci chronograph that eventually joins the regular collection is likely to have identical specs.

Part of the annual series of watches IWC produces to support the Laureus charity, which aims to bring sport to children in poor countries, the latest Laureus chronograph retains the dark blue colour scheme typical of the series.

The most manageably sized of all the Da Vinci chronographs so far, the Laureus is 42mm wide and 14.5mm high. The movement inside is the calibre 89361, a self-winding flyback chronograph movement from the same family of calibres that powers the other Da Vinci chronographs.

Like all Laureus watches, the case back is laser engraved with a reproduction of a drawing done by the child who won last year’s annual contest to select the motif of the 2017 watch.

The Laureus chronograph (ref. IW393402) is limited to 1500 watches and priced at US$12,700.

The sole time-only model for men is the Da Vinci Automatic, a 40mm wide, and surprisingly thin, 10mm watch that’s only available in stainless steel.

Behind the solid case back is the calibre 35111, which is the low-cost and reliable Sellita SW300. While the movement is fuss free, it is small compared to the size of the case, explaining the odd position of the date window close to the centre of the dial.

The Da Vinci Automatic is available either with a silver on a crocodile strap or with a grey dial on a bracelet.

Despite the diverse men’s models in the new Da Vinci line, the focus of the range is actually on the female watch buyer. While not numerous in variety, the Da Vinci watches catered for ladies will surely sell in commendable numbers, being already available on Net-a-porter.

There are two models for ladies in the collection, both of which have a cast “Flower of Life” pattern on the case back, inspired by a recurring motif from Leonardo Da Vinci’s drawings.

The first is the Da Vinci 36. This is 36mm in diameter and available in a variety of styles, including a diamond-set model.

While still retaining the same design as the men’s models, the ladies’ have slight differences, including a recessed track on the dial forming a figure of eight with the date window.

Mechanically identical to the men’s Da Vinci Automatic, the Da Vinci 36 is powered by the Sellita-based 35111, which actually fits better here since the size of the movement is appropriate for the case.

The Da Vinci 36 is available in steel with a dark blue dial on a strap (ref. IW458312) for US$5400, a silver dial on bracelet (ref. IW458307) at US$6400, or steel with a diamond-set bezel (ref. IW458308) for US$10,800.

And in 18k red gold on strap (ref. IW458309) for US$13,800, and 18k red gold with a diamond bezel and gold bracelet (ref. IW458310) for US$39,300.

The Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 adds an age of the moon display to the base ladies’ model. Inside is the same movement as the Da Vinci 36, but with the addition of a moon phase mechanism, which leaves the case 1.5mm higher.

It’s also 36mm in diameter, with a conventional moon phase display advanced via recessed pusher at two o’clock.

The Da Vinci Moon Phase 36 is available in steel with a silver dial (ref. IW459306) for US$8500, steel with a diamond-set bezel (ref. IW459307) at US$13,900, and 18k red gold with a silver dial (ref. IW459308) for US$16,400.

But SIHH 2017 was not just about the Da Vinci for IWC. The new offerings included several watches from the Portofino collection (as well as Pilot’s watches that will be launched later in the year), including the Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days Moon Phase.

This essentially a variant of the existing Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days, with the addition of a moon phase. The specs remain largely the same, with a 45mm case, hand-wound movement and eight day power reserve.

The Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days Moon Phase will be available in stainless steel and red gold.

Better known for its impossibly beautiful Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux‘s primary launch for SIHH 2017 is the revived Laureato, the luxury sports watch that has been in brand’s line-up on and off for the last 40 years.

Introduced in 1975 as a competitor to the giants in segment, namely the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Laureato was designed by a Milanese architect. As tends to be the case with luxury sports watches of that vintage, the key feature was its bezel, essentially a circle with an octagon inside.

The 2017 Laureato is a remake of the 1990s model (the versions from the 1970s and 1980s being dated-looking for modern tastes), with the same key design elements, including a hobnail pattern dial and baton hands. But it’s larger and more masculine thanks to design tweaks like a wider bezel.

Three sizes are available for the Laureato, 42mm, 38mm and 34mm. All versions are available either with a leather strap or matching metal bracelet.

The Laureato 42mm is available in steel or a combination of titanium and pink gold. It’s powered by the calibre GP01800, a thin, in-house automatic movement that’s visible through the open back.

The Laureato 42mm starts at SFr11,200 in steel, rising to SFr22,900 for the titanium and pink gold version.

Available in steel or pink gold, the mid-size Laureato 38mm is a curious beast, being too small for men and too chunky for a ladies’ watch. It is, however, available with a diamond bezel.

The 38mm starts at SFr9800 in steel, while the pink gold on bracelet is SFr34,800.

The smallest 34mm version, which is quartz, is also available with a diamond bezel.

The ladies’ 34mm model is SFr9700 in steel with a diamond bezel, while the same in pink gold with a bracelet is SFr31,400.

Fetching as it is – the 42mm titanium and pink gold version is unusual and appealing – the Laureato is up against stiff competition, putting it in the same situation as the Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

Even if the product is very, very good, the competition is well entrenched, though the Laureato has the advantage of being more affordable, making it relatively good value for money. The Laureato 42mm in steel for instance, costs about half the equivalent from Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet.

While the new Laureato collection has no chronograph inside yet, it does include a tourbillon. The Laureato Tourbillon is a very large 45mm in diameter, though relatively slim at just under 12mm high. Its size means the tourbillon lacks some of the elegance of the time-only models.

Available only in titanium with pink or white gold accents, the Laureato Tourbillon is equipped with the calibre GP09510. It’s a self-winding movement with a micro-rotor visible on the front, with the highlight being the solid gold tourbillon bridge on the front.

Shaped like an arrow that’s a GP trademark, the bridge holds in place a one-minute tourbillon that’s also shaped in the traditional GP style. The bridge is in a contrasting colour of gold relative to the case accents, so the titanium and pink gold version has a white gold bridge (pictured here).

The Laureato Tourbillon in titanium and pink gold is priced at SFr95,000 including taxes. For the same in titanium and white gold it’s SFr99,800. It’s also available on a matching titanium and gold bracelet.

A twist on the classic Girard-Perregaux tourbillon bridge is the Neo-Bridges. It’s a time-only wristwatch with an open dial that reveals the twin barrels at the top, with the balance wheel exposed at six o’clock. The calibre GP08400-0001 inside is automatic, and similar to the movement inside the similarly spec’ed Place Giradet wristwatch.

The look is modern and appealing, though it is hardly reminiscent of any other GP wristwatch.

The case is titanium, 45mm in diameter, with a box-shaped crystal that sits directly on the case, sans bezel, allowing for a better view of the movement.

The Neo-Bridges is priced at SFr24,300.

Greubel Forsey claimed one of the most complicated watches unveiled at SIHH 2017 with a grande sonnerie wristwatch, but also debuted variants of its two entry-level timepieces, the Signature 1 and Tourbillon 24 Seconde Vision.

Boasting an incline tourbillon and automatic winding for the second barrel, the Grande Sonnerie is styled in the typical Greubel Forsey manner – large and modern-looking with an expensively constructed dial and gorgeously intricate movement – the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch shows the striking mechanism on the front at 10 o’clock, while the incline tourbillon is at eight. A button at four o’clock acts as the function selector for silent, small strike or grande strike mode.

Everything is sensibly laid out and legible, as well as easy to use. Several safety mechanisms in the movement ensure nothing can be broken if any function is accidentally triggered; for instance the repeater cannot be activated while the time is being set.

On the rear is where it gets interesting, with the 935-part movement shown in all its glory. In the centre is the rotor that winds the 20-hour mainspring for the striking mechanism; the primary, 72-hour barrel for timekeeping is wound via the crown.

Tiny, relief text that philosophises about life covers most of the bridges and rotor, a feature that is frequently found on Greubel Forsey watches. And there is also a liberal use of fine, frosted surfaces, another of the brand’s signatures.

At 43.5mm wide and 16.13mm high, the Grande Sonnerie is imposing in the usual style of the brand, but being titanium it’s fairly lightweight. The titanium case also aids the chiming, which is loud, clear and pleasant.

Most notably the movement is remarkably similar to that in the Vacheron Constantin Symphonia Grande Sonnerie (that’s a traditional grande sonnerie without a tourbillon or automatic winding), which was unveiled at the same fair and priced exactly the same, at SFr1.15m.

The other wristwatches introduced were variations on existing models, including the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Edition Historique. This is the last iteration of the Greubel Forsey 24-second tourbillon (which is also available in the Contemporain livery), hence the “Historique” appellation.

This is equipped with a tourbillon that makes one rotation every 24 seconds, as compared to a minute for conventional tourbillons, while being inclined at 25 degrees. Designed to average out gravitational errors while being in constant motion on the wrist, the 24-second tourbillon was introduced 10 years ago.

While the movement is mechanically similar to past versions, the Historique edition gets a redesigned dial (but the dial remains a plate of solid gold) that is cleanly styled but detailed when seen up close. From a distance it looks like a two-tone dial divided into halves, giving it a more streamlined, contemporary feel that the average Greubel Forsey.

But half the dial is actually covered in minute raised text that explains the Greubel Forsey philosophy in French, while the sub-seconds and power reserve indicated by discs and pointers.

The case is 44mm in diameter, while the movement is exquisitely finished with frosted bridges and pronounced anglage, just like earlier iterations of the model.

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Edition Historique is a limited edition of 11 pieces each in red gold or platinum. It’s priced at approximately US$550,000 in gold.

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision features an inclined, high speed tourbillon similar to that inside the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Edition Historique, but with a marginally – really, really slightly – simplified movement, making it the entry-level Greubel Forsey tourbillon.

First introduced two years ago with a silver dial, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision is now available in four additional dial colours: salmon, chocolate, blue and black. The blue dial is particularly striking.

While the new dial colours are striking different, the dial construction remains the same. The dial is a disc of solid gold, galvanically treated to achieve the colour, and then fitted with applied hour markers that are filled with vitreous enamel.

The rest of the watch remains the same with a 43.5mm platinum case, and a gorgeously finished hand-wound movement showing the tourbillon at nine o’clock on the front, and the power reserve on the rear.

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision costs SFr290,000, about 10% less than the next most expensive tourbillon from the brand.

Even more affordable, relatively speaking, is the Signature 1. Introduced last year in stainless steel, the Signature 1 is a time-only wristwatch that delivers the brand’s trademark movement quality without any complications or the accompanying price.

The key characteristic of the platinum model is the dark grey dial, while the other versions (in gold as well as steel) had silver dials. Though the platinum Signature 1 is visually similar, the tactile feel is significantly different, being heftier in the hand and feeling more expensively crafted.

The rest of the watch remains identical, with a strikingly handsome movement that shows off the oversized balance wheel on the front, secured by a flat-polished bridge.

Though the movement has no complications, it is elaborately constructed, with an exposed barrel topped with a serrated ratchet wheel, all held down by a three-legged bridge.

Priced at SFr155,000 in steel, the Signature 1 is now available in its final iteration with a platinum case, priced at SFr190,000.

The most interesting announcement from Greubel Forsey, however, was a watch that was not for sale. Co-founder Stephen Forsey had it on his wrist during the fair, but being a work in progress little was revealed about its workings.

The Mechanical Nano wristwatch is an early prototype of a technology Greubel Forsey is working on that miniaturises the mechanics of a watch movement, radically increasing its power reserve, to 180 days in fact. The Mechanical Nano project may or may not be related to the experimental, synthetic diamond Binomial escapement Greubel Forsey announced in 2009.

The Mechanical Nano prototype with a miniature lightning seconds hand that’s just 1mm long, and visible through a 23-times magnifier

But according to Mr Forsey, the key advantage of the compact movement is not the long autonomy, but rather the space it frees up for other complications. Expect this to be ready in two to three years.

Cartier focused on two sensible themes for its SIHH 2017 collection, namely the panther (figuratively and literally), as well as the cushion-shaped Drive de Cartier first introduced last year.

Designs and shapes were all vintage Cartier, styled in a manner that would appeal to lovers of the Parisian jeweller’s classic aesthetic. Few of the high-end complications that Cartier favoured in recent years were part of the line-up.

The key new launch was the return of the Panthère de Cartier, one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that sold in vast numbers. Thin and compact, the Panthère was originally conceived as a feminine version of the Santos, with the same squarish case but with the screws on the bezel replaced by rivets for a more streamlined look.

Cartier has resurrected the Panthère almost exactly as it was 30 years ago, with the same square case and link bracelet. Minor changes have been made, most obviously in the more robust bracelet, but it’s hard to distinguish the new Panthère from the original.

Like the 1980s model today’s Panthère is also quartz, and available in two sizes, Small and Medium. Several versions are available, including the various colours of gold as well as with diamonds; there’s even one set with diamonds and black enamel spots resembling a Dalmatian. But the one that truly channels the 1980s is the steel and gold version.

Technically basic but affordable, the Panthère starts at approximately US$4000 in steel, US$7000 in steel and gold, and US$20,000 in gold.

The other affordable highlight were the new Drive de Cartier watches, led by the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat.

Standing just under 7mm high, the watch lives up to its name. The case diameter is just 39mm, but the cushion-shaped form gives it a bigger footprint than a round watch of the same size so it’s elegant but not dimunitive.

The sensation of the flatness is enhanced by the flat dial finished with radial brushing, instead of the guilloche that’s typical for Cartier.

Inside is the calibre 430 MC, a small, hand-wound movement that’s actually the Piaget 430P. This is available in pink gold, priced at US$15,600 or S$21,500.

It’s also offered as a limited edition of 200 pieces in white gold, priced at US$16,700 or S$23,000.

The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases is even more affordable. Powered by the in-house automatic 1904-LU MC, the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases indicates only the time and the age of the moon. A pusher on the side of the case advances the moon disc.

Available in pink gold or steel, the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases is 41mm in diameter, with a guilloche dial and blued steel hands. The case is 12.15mm high, leaving the watch feeling more substantial than it looks.

This costs US$7850 or S$10,900 in steel, and US$21,200 in pink gold.

The Drive de Cartier Panther Décor uses the cushion-shaped case as a canvas for hand-engraving and enamelling that depicts a vividly drawn panther.

Finely engraved lines represent individual hairs of the animal, coming together to create a textured surface. The panther is in relief, rising up ever so slightly from the dial, and continuing on the bezel and side of the case.

Large enough to suit a man or woman, the case 41mm in diameter and yellow gold. Inside is the 1904 MC automatic movement.

This is priced at S$103,000, or about US$72,000.

Decorated similarly lavishly and intricately is the Clé de Cartier Watch Panther Décor, which uses the ovoid case with a key-shaped crown that Cartier introduced two years ago. This is a ladies’ watch, being 40mm in diameter with a diamond set bezel.

The panther decoration is more elaborate, with the create set against a dial made of aventurine, a type of quartz with sparkling mineral inclusions, and set with green emeralds for its eyes. While this may be fancier, the Drive de Cartier Panther Décor has more instinctive appeal.

Like all the other Cle de Cartier watches, this has inside the 1847 MC movement. It’s an in-house calibre but the most basic of the range.

This is priced at S$109,000, or about US$76,000.

Another panther-themed metier d’art timepiece is the Ronde Louis Cartier XL Flamed Gold watch.

A panther depicted in Impressionistic colours and strokes is actually the result of a lengthy process that begins with the solid gold dial disc being heated until it turns blue (a bluish-purple to be exact).

Parts of the panther motif are then scratched off the dial – the blue is only surface oxidisation – and the disc is then heated again to transform the exposed part into another colour. This is done in stages, over and over, until the full panther is formed.

The white gold case is 41mm in diameter and set with diamonds on the bezel, while the movement inside is the 430 MC. That’s the same manually wound, Piaget-sourced calibre inside the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat.

The Ronde Louis Cartier XL Flamed Gold watch is limited to 30 pieces and the price is on application, but don’t expect it to be any less than low six figures.

Another artisanal technique is used for the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Marquetry watch.

The geometric pattern on the dial is actually composed of tiny tiles of semiprecious stone, cut and laid by hand.

The movement inside is the 9984 MC, a hand-wound movement with a mystery time display.

Both the hour and minute hands are mounted on clear sapphire discs with teeth on their rim, which are in turn driven by gears hidden on the perimeter of the dial. In fact, the bulk of the movement is squeezed into a crescent-shaped area around the sapphire dial.

The case is white gold and set with diamonds on the bezel. This is a limited edition of 50 watches, priced at S$112,000, equivalent to US$78,000.

Featuring the open-worked version of the same movement, the Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Hour Watch reveals much of the clever movement inside.

The base plate on the front and bridges on the back – which are all made of German silver – have been open-worked into large Roman numerals, a Cartier signature.

This leaves the mainspring visible at two o’clock, while the balance wheel sits under the four o’clock numeral.

The 42mm case is made of palladium, a dense, white metal from the same family as platinum. It’s priced at S$103,000, or about US$72,000.

Also mysterious but far more complicated (as a name this long always implies) is the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon.

Big, ambitious and very complex, this feels like a creation from the times before the watch business started its decline. But as such complications go, the new repeater is well executed.

The look is modern, with an open dial that shows off the striking mechanism of the minute repeater and the wheel train for the time. All the moving parts contrast with the bridges and base plate finished in black rhodium.

At 11 o’clock sits the “Mysterious Double Tourbillon”. “Mysterious” because it sits on a clear sapphire disc, seemingly floating in midair, and “double” because the tourbillon cage rotates once a minute, while the sapphire disc below makes one revolution every five minutes.

Despite its 45mm diameter, it is slim (at 11.5mm high) and light, being titanium, giving it good balance in the hand. And the size and lightness of the case improve the sound of the chimes, since there is greater acoustic resonance with larger cases made of less dense materials.

Limited to 50 pieces in titanium (as well as several versions with diamonds), the minute repeating double tourbillon will cost approximately US$440,000.

The other very complicated watch unleashed at SIHH 2017 is a new variant of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendar, now in pink gold.

It’s a tourbillon with an “amphitheatre” perpetual calendar, named after the stepped, concentric layout of the calendar.

Conceived to be robust and easy to set, the calendar on calibre 9459 MC can be set backwards and forwards with no ill effect on the mechanism. This will cost approximately US$200,000.

The latest from Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry Co., the joint venture between the American apparel maker and Richemont, are a pair of tourbillon wristwatches, including the brand’s first double tourbillon.

With its signature amboyna burl wood bezel, the Ralph Lauren Automotive watches are inspired by the flowing lines and wood-panelled interior of the 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe owned by the eponymous fashion designer who’s also a noted car collector.

The RL Automotive Double Tourbillon is 45mm with a steel case coated black. The dial is a matte black, matched with ivory-tone Super-Luminova on the hands and numerals, a look derived from the instrument panels of the Bugatti.

Identically sized with the same case type and dial size is the RL Automotive Tourbillon that’s equipped with a single tourbillon.
 

Both are equipped with manually-wound movements produced by Le Cercle des Horlogers, a Le Locle-based builder of complicated movements that also supplies brands like Graham and Corum.

Price and availability

The RL Automotive Tourbillon is priced at US$62,500, while the RL Automotive Double Tourbillon is US$99,000.

Correction January 27, 2017: Movements are made by Le Cercle des Horlogers, and not Création et Développement Horlogers (CDH) as stated earlier.

After a handful of mundane years, at least in terms of mechanical men’s watch, Baume & Mercier had a good showing at SIHH 2017, keeping it compact and simple with a range of affordable additions to the Clifton collection.

Though the high profile announcement before SIHH was of a pricey perpetual calendar in red gold, the key product at SIHH was the extremely affordable Clifton Club that starts at SFr1950, or less than US$2000.

Rated to 100m, the Clifton Club is sensibly sized and conservatively designed, a sports timepiece with the look of a typical dive watch, that is to say a rotating, 60-minute elapsed time bezel.

Though the watch is not small, it feels smaller and slimmer than it is; the dimensions are 42mm in diameter and 10.3mm high. Inside is the low-cost and robust Sellita SW200, a clone of the ETA 2824.

The watch is well executed, to a quality commensurate with the price, including applied indices and alternating brushed and mirrored surfaces on the case.

Several dial colours are available – all have orange accents and Super-Luminova – while the case can be had in polished steel or ADLC-coated steel.

The Clifton Club starts at SFr1950 for the steel on a leather strap, rising to SFr2250 for the ADLC version on a rubber strap.

Baume & Mercier also continues its partnership with the estate of famed American sports car builder Carroll Shelby with the new Clifton Club Shelby Cobra chronographs.

Inspired by the championship-winning, V8 Shelby Cobra, the chronographs come in three guises. The top of the line is the Clifton Club Shelby Cobra CSX2299 (ref. M0A10344), a 196-piece limited edition that’s named after the chassis number of the Shelby Daytona Coupe that won Le Mans in 1964. Its silver and blue dial is inspired by the paintwork on the Daytona Coupe.

The case is 44mm and titanium, with a steel bezel and back. A sapphire back reveals the movement’s rotor that’s shaped like a wheel rim.

The movement inside a La Joux-Perret movement, which is essentially a Valjoux 7750 upgraded to feature a flyback function.

This is priced at SFr7100.

The other two chronographs are each limited editions of 1964 pieces. The Clifton Club Shelby Cobra are both stainless steel and 44mm in diameter. Inside ticks a Sellita SW500, which is a clone of the Valjoux 7750.

The first version has a silver dial with dark blue registers for the chronograph (ref. M0A10342), while the second inverts the colour scheme with a blue dial and silver sub-dials (ref. M0A10343).

Both are priced at SFr3900.

And the last of the new line-up is the Clifton GMT Power Reserve that was previewed before SIHH. Priced at SFr3400, this is a 43mm stainless steel watch with two practical complications.

The somewhat sub-dial at 12 o’clock indicates a second time zone, while that at six o’clock shows the power reserve.

The movement inside is an ETA 2892 modified by Soprod to include the complication module on top. It’s been dressed up with blued steel screws, pearling on the bridges and stripes on the rotor – decoration that is industrially applied but something that justifies the open case back.

Audemars Piguet prudently relied almost entirely on the Royal Oak for its SIHH 2017 line-up, which was well received despite the design being well know, proving the power of the octagonal watch.

[NB: All prices are in Swiss francs, before taxes and provisional, being subject to change.]

The headliner of the collection was the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic, announced just before the fair. It is exactly what the name implies, the Royal Oak perpetual in black ceramic.

What makes it novel is the ceramic bracelet, which is a first for AP. The rest of the watch – 41mm size, calibre 5134 movement and design – is identical to the standard model.

There’s a lot of black ceramic on this watch, and it is beautifully finished. AP arguably does the best surface finishing for ceramic in watchmaking, being able to give it a lustre and texture similar to metal.

Both the bracelet and case have the alternating brushed and mirror surfaces that characterise the Royal Oak (though the grain of the matte finish is distinct from that of metal), giving the watch a gleaming, urbane look.

But because ceramic is a pale black, rather than deep and dense colour, and also remains glossy even when it is matte finished, the watch is quite shiny. As the saying goes you can’t have too much of a good thing, but there is a lot of black ceramic in this.

Priced at SFr85,000 or about US$85,000, the ceramic perpetual costs less than the gold version (about US$95,000) but a lot more than the steel (US$60,000 or so). The premium is attributable to the difficulty of polishing ceramic – the case and bracelet takes six time as long to finish as the steel model.

Another existing model in new livery is the Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm. This has been facelifted with two-tone dials, enlarged chronograph registers, as well as more legible markers and hands. Several models are available in both pink gold and stainless steel, but the most compelling is the boutique-only titanium and platinum version.

With a blue and grey dial that is reminiscent of the first ever Royal Oak Offshore in titanium, the new chronograph offers another appealing throwback with the bi-metal case.

Both the bezel and centre links of the bracelet are polished platinum (AP always gives platinum a polished surface on bi-metal watches), while the rest is brushed titanium. Perhaps because of the platinum bits, or maybe just its psychological effect, this feels heavier than a titanium watch would.

The movement inside the restyled Royal Oak Chronograph is the Frederic Piguet calibre 1185, a movement that was designed 30 years ago. It’s slim, small and sophisticated, but well, 30 years old, proving beyond doubt that the any design as iconic as the Royal Oak is all about aesthetics.

The Royal Oak Chronograph starts at SFr21,930 in stainless steel, rising to  SFr34,650 for the pink gold on strap, and SFr51,240 for the pink gold on bracelet. And the titanium and platinum version is SFr37,000.

The Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold is another historical reboot. Originally available only in steel or pink gold, the Royal Oak “Jumbo”, as it is sometimes known, was also made in a 50-piece run in yellow gold with a dark green dial for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass.

Now yellow gold has joined the regular collection, matched with either a dark blue blue or matching yellow gold dial. Both look good – being essentially a remake of the original 1972 Royal Oak, the “Jumbo” is a classic in a league of its own – and the champagne dial in particular harks back to the early models giving it a satisfying retro style.

The watch is hefty and gorgeously finished, with endless brushed and polished surfaces that make it feel a bit precious, like all gold Royal Oaks.

Everything else about the watch is identical to the existing versions, including the 39mm case and calibre 2121 inside.

These cost SFr50,130 in either colour.

The Royal Oak Offshore Diver “Funky Colour” takes after the Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph unveiled at SIHH last year. It’s essentially a range of Offshore Divers in candy colours of white, blue, yellow, orange and green.

Hefty and solid in the hand, the colours are appealing in a fun sort of way, but at the expense of the seriousness of the watch.

These are all spec’ed the same as the basic models: 42mm steel case with inner rotating bezel and a see-through back showing the calibre 3120 inside. What is different, besides the main dial colour, is the dark blue (instead of the usual black) accents on the dial, bezel and rubber coverings for the crowns.

And all of them have glow in the dark Super-Luminova on the hands and hour markers, save for the white dial model.

The new Offshore Diver is part of the regular collection, and not a limited edition like the chronograph. Both the green and white are available only at AP boutiques, while the others will also be offered by retailers.

They are priced at SFr17,190 each.

Previewed well before SIHH, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold is a ladies’ watch that’s a striking reinterpretation of the classic design. While the size and even shape of the Royal Oak has varied over the years, it has always been consistently finished with brushed and polished surfaces.

The Frosted Gold appropriates a technique from Florentine jewellery to create a grained surface. A diamond-tipped tool is used to create a dimpled surface that catches the light nicely, leaving the case a notable sparkle.

The frosted surface, however, is not as fine as that shown in the stock images. In the flesh the dimpling is more pronounced, and presumably more durable. Refinishing such a surface must be well nigh impossible.

Available only in pink or white gold, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold is offered in two sizes. The larger 37mm has the automatic calibre 3120 inside and costs SFr51,500 in white gold and SFr46,500 in pink gold.

The smaller 33mm model is quartz, priced at SFr42,500 in white gold and SFr37,500 in pink gold.

And the highlight of the line-up that is not a Royal Oak is the Diamond Outrage. A follow-up to last year’s punky Diamond Fury, the Diamond Outrage is all spikes and lives up to its name.

With only two unique examples made – one set entirely with diamonds and the other a mix of diamonds and sapphires – the Diamond Outrage is covered in spikes of varying lengths, ranging from 29.30mm 40.0mm.

Essentially an intricately hand-made, jewelled bangle with a tiny quartz movement inside, the Diamond Outrage is not something for the faint hearted but impressively bold. It’s priced at just over SFr1m.

Trade body The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FHS) just published its annual figures for Swiss watch exports and the decline that began in 2014 continues.

Compared with 2015 exports are down 9.9% to SFr19.4 billion, about the same as 2011 levels.

Hong Kong, the biggest market, was down 25.1%. Of the the ten largest markets worldwide, only the United Kingdom showed growth, eking out a 3.7% increase.

The fall in demand for Swiss watches has led to job cuts and management changes at Richemont, owner of brands like Cartier and IWC, while rival the Swatch Group is diversifying into electric vehicle batteries.

Recovery in domestic sales in China, the world’s second largest market, provided some optimism for the future. Exports to the Middle Kingdom dipped 3.3% for the whole of 2016, but were positive in the second half of the year.

Thanks in part to China, Richemont recently announced modest growth in the third quarter of its financial year, while being cautiously optimistic about 2017.

Source: FHS