Tantalum is the case metal of choice in the Tourbillon Souverain Bleu, featuring a reflective blue dial, resulting in an notably unique edition by F.P. Journe for Only Watch 2015.

F.P. Journe turned to the most basic of his timepieces, the Chronometre Bleu, for inspiration for the unique tourbillon created for Only Watch 2015. The Tourbillon Souverain Bleu has a tantalum case and a vivid blue mirror-finished dial, just like the Chronometre Bleu, which is the beloved timepiece that’s the most affordable in the F.P. Journe collection. Despite the entry-level inspiration, the result is stunning.  The Tourbillon Souverain Bleu has a 40mm case is made of tantalum, a dense bluish-grey metal sometimes used to tip armour-piercing shells because of its hardness and high melting point. 

Despite being single colour, the dial is complex, requiring several layers of lacquer to achieve the brilliant blue dial that has a shiny and slightly metallic surface. Like on the Chronometre Bleu dial, the lettering is in an off-white lacquer. Notably this is the second recent limited edition from F.P. Journe related to the Chronometre Bleu, the other being the Chronometre Bleu Byblos. Mechanically the Tourbillon Souverain Bleu is identical to the regular production model, equipped with the calibre 1403 that features a tourbillon regulator with constant force mechanism and deadbeat seconds. And like all F.P. Journe watches this has a movement with the base plate and bridges in solid 18k red gold.

With the US$770,000 price achieved for another one of a kind F.P. Journe tourbillon achieved in May 2015, this is expected to sell for a similar hefty sum. Only Watch will take place on November 7, 2015 in Geneva, with all proceeds from the sale to raise funds for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Patek Philippe has put together an extraordinarily desirable combination for Only Watch 2015: the discontinued Grand Complication Ref. 5016A in steel, fitted with a deep blue enamel dial.

One of the most impressive and subtly beautiful grand complication wristwatches Patek Philippe has ever produced (photographic proof here), the Ref. 5016 was in production from 1993 to 2011. But for Only Watch 2015 the Geneva watchmaker has resurrected the reference as the Ref. 5016A-010, with a case in that fabulously collectible alloy steel, and thrown in a blue enamel dial with white gold appliqué Breguet numerals for good measure. Though Patek Philippe has recently resurrected some other discontinued references with its London 2015 historical collection, the Ref. 5016A is a unique version of an extraordinarily rare reference, the total production of the 5016 model estimated to be between 200 to 300 pieces.

This is the first Only Watch edition made by Patek Philippe with a steel case, previous unique pieces for the same event were in titanium. The steel case of the ref. 5016A is the same 36.8mm size as the original, with the fabulous movement inside boasting a perpetual calendar with retrograde date, tourbillon regulator and minute repeater. For those wondering what the fuss is about the low-cost case material, historical steel complicated watches from top-end brands like Patek Philippe are collectible because they are far less common than their precious metal counterparts. Many are in fact special orders or one-off pieces. Italian collectors, the pioneers of modern watch collecting in many watches, were amongst the first to latch onto steel as the ultimate case material, with the mania in the auction market in recent years, the value of steel watches have just gone potty.

The wonderful movement as seen in a regular production ref. 5016R

Only Watch 2015 will take place in November 2015, with all proceeds going towards research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. And as past Only Watch auctions have proven, this Patek Philippe will raise the largest sum for the charity, by far.

Tudor has never made limited or unique editions, at least none that are publicly known. So the Heritage Black Bay One is a distinct departure from the norm. A one of a kind timepiece made for charity auction Only Watch, the Heritage Black Bay One is modelled on the regular production Black Bay, with a special dial and bezel inspired by the reference 7923 dive watch of 1954.

With the unique model reference 7923/001, the Heritage Black Bay One sticks to the formula Tudor has applied for all its Heritage timepieces. Not a literal remake of the original, the Black Bay One is heavily inspired by the 1954 model, but still different.

The bezel insert is black without minute markings, and a red triangle at 12 o’clock. And the dial is a wonderful pastiche of design elements from vintage Tudor and Rolex dive watches. It’s a glossy black gilt dial, with gold-tone markings and text. The hands are similarly gold-plated, as are the metal surrounds for the hour markers filled with luminous paint.

A particularly vintage touch, though not one found on the original, is the “200m=660ft” at six o’clock. This recalls vintage Rolex dive watches in its colour, while the text itself is reminiscent of the desirable “meters first” Rolex Submariners (that were later superseded by the more common “feet first” models).

Like the regular production Black Bay, the Only Watch edition has a 41mm steel case with a domed sapphire crystal and the ETA 2824 inside. Unlike the regular edition it’s fitted to a steel bracelet with retro-style straight ends that’s not offered with the regular Black Bay, though this bracelet is available on the Heritage Ranger. The Heritage Black Bay One will also be sold with an aged brown leather strap and a grey, jacquard-weave fabric NATO-style strap; multiple strap options packaged with the watch are standard for Tudor. Only Watch 2015, a biennial auction of one of a kind timepieces that raises money for research int Duchenne muscular dsytrophy, will take place in November 2015. Stayed tuned for more unique pieces that will be revealed in the coming months.