IWC will unveil the revamped Aquatimer collection of dive watches at SIHH 2014, including a Deep Three with depth gauge as well as IWC’s first bronze watch, the Aquatimer Chronograph Charles Darwin.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” in bronze

IWC’s Aquatimer line of dive watches gets a facelift in 2014. The most prominent change is the return to the inner rotating dive bezel, a feature used in historical Aquatimer watches.  Furthermore, the Aquatimer range now features more in-house movements, as well as more complicated models, with the top of the line being the new Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, a 49 mm behemoth. Another notable addition is the Aquatimer Deep Three, a mechanical depth gauge for dives of up to 50 m. The key feature of the new Aquatimer is the newly developed, hybrid internal-external rotating bezel. Like all dive bezels, this turns only anticlockwise, moving in increments of one minute. But mechanically it is unusual. An external, notched bezel is linked via a sliding clutch to the inner, dive bezel. So turning the external bezel turns the inner ring, marked for dive times, simultaneously. The bulge on the case at nine o’clock is the protective cover for the sliding clutch. As a preview of the new collection IWC has released images of the two limited edition Aquatimer chronographs, the bronze Charles Darwin and the rubber coated Galapagos, plus the Aquatimer Automatic 2000. 

Aquatimer Automatic 2000 with sliding clutch cover at nine o’clock

Equipped with a titanium case, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 (Ref. IW358002) is water-resistant to 2000 m, or 200 bar. It says it is inspired by the minimalist Ocean 2000 made in collaboration with Porsche Design in the eighties, though the new Aquatimer is hardly minimalist in design.

This is fitted with the automatic 80110 calibre, the basic movement in the 8000 family of movements made in-house by IWC but using the gear train of the Valjoux 7750.  The Aquatimer 2000 is a beef up dive watch. For those who want a more basic model, the entry level model will be the Aquatimer Automatic with a 42 mm case and 300 m water resistance. That will be unveiled officially at SIHH. Created to help raise funds for conservation of the Galapagos Islands through its partnership with the Charles Darwin Foundation, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” (Ref. IW379502) has a black rubber coated case and is water-resistant to 300 m.

Part of the regular collection and not a limited edition, the Galapagos Islands is equipped with the 89365 calibre, from the same cal. 8000 family of movements. The case back depicts an iguana, one of the creatures native to the islands.  There is a second Galapagos model which will be launched at SIHH with blue dial accents and a rubber coated case, which will be limited to 500 pieces.

Also part of the regular line-up is the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” (Ref. IW379503), which is another effort to aid the Charles Darwin Foundation. This too is equipped with the cal. 89365, but with a bronze case rated to 300 m. Charles Darwin is portrayed on the case back of the bronze Aquatimer.

Whereas IWC was a pioneer with materials in the eighties, namely with titanium and ceramic cases, the Charles Darwin comes some two years after the Panerai PAM382 Bronzo, when bronze is not the novelty it once was.  In fact, the Bronzo was not the first bronze wristwatch but the one that made the alloy the latest fad in watchmaking. And only last year that IWC unveiled its first carbon fibre watch, the Ingenieur Carbon Performance. 

All the new Aquatimers, including the three above, are also fitted with the bracelet quick change system. Used in the current Aquatimer collection, it allows a swap from strap to bracelet with the push of a button. The pricing for the new Aquatimer collection in Singapore, inclusive of 7% tax is as follows: Aquatimer Automatic on rubber strap – 8150 Singapore dollars (~US$6440) Aquatimer Automatic on bracelet – 9550 Singapore dollars (~US$7550) Aquatimer Deep Three – 26,300 Singapore dollars (~US$20,800) Aquatimer Automatic 2000 – 13,900 Singapore dollars (~US$11,000)  Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month – 77,400 Singapore dollars (~US$61,100) Aquatimer Galapagos Islands – 15,200 Singapore dollars (~US$12,000) Aquatimer Charles Darwin – 15,200 Singapore dollars (~US$12,000) Aquatimer 50 Years Science for Galapagos – 15,300 Singapore dollars (~US$12,100) – SJX Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for updates and news.

2013 was our best year ever in terms of readership, and dare we say, content. We encountered some fantastic timepieces in 2013, and also profiled some unbelievable collections.

Here’s our top 10 most read stories of 2013. 10. IWC SIHH 2013 photo report

We covered, in great detail, the IWC collection unveiled at SIHH 2013, comprising mainly of the revamped Ingenieur collection. Full story here. 9. Comparing the Grand Seiko 44GS reissue SBGW047 and Grand Seiko 130th Anniversary SBGW033

Seiko’s last two vintage reissues were big hits. The first one, to mark the brand’s 130th anniversary, was a remake of the original Grand Seiko. And the second, which came in 2013, was a replica of the distinctive 44GS. We put them head to head. 8. Explaining the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, and Seiko’s history in Swiss chronometer competitions

Seiko has a major, and little known, history as a champion chronometer producer, which swept the board at all the major Swiss chronometry contests in the sixties. Some say that was the reason the contests were subsequently terminated. We explained that history, as well as went hands-on with the exceptionally rare Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer. Read the full story. 7. Hands-on with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar from SIHH 2013

One of the highlights from SIHH 2013 was the modest Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar. Neither very complicated nor very modern nor very pricey, the Master Calendar is a good example of an accessibly priced, classically styled and well made watch. See our report here. 6. Jaeger-LeCoultre SIHH 2013 photo report

Our detailed report on the collection presented by Jaeger-LeCoultre at SIHH 2013, including the 1833 Jubilee trio, made to mark the manufacture’s 180th anniversary. This was definitely one of the most diverse, with something for every budget, line-ups presented at the fair. Full story here. 5. Hands-on with the Seiko Snow Monster (and explaining the Seiko Thailand limited editions)

Seiko has made a series of unusual, annual limited editions specifically for the Thai market, including the cool blue Snow Monster. These are significantly more costly than the equivalent regular models, but they are nevertheless keenly collected. Despite being sold only in Thailand, they have acquired a small but dedicated foreign following. Find out more here. 4. Hands-on with the Omega Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” – the first ceramic Speedy

One of Omega’s biggest hits of the year is the Dark Side of the Moon, a Speedmaster made almost wholly of black ceramic. The case, pushers, crown and even dial are made of sleek black ceramic. Though somewhat expensive for what it is, the Dark Side of the Moon is nonetheless one of the most talked about watches this year. Full story here. 3. Explaining the Seiko 9F quartz movements – proof that high-end quartz is not an oxymoron

Seiko’s series of high-end 9F quartz movements, used primarily in Grand Seiko, are highly engineered marvels of micro-mechanics. Each 9F movement even has an individually selected quartz crystals with an integrated circuit specially programmed for that piece of quartz. See the rest of the story here. 2. Meet Prasart Vidhayapat, the man with 1000 watches

Our second most read story is about a most extraordinary watch collection. Assembled by Thai businessman Prasart Vidhayapat over thirty years, the collection numbers over 1000 watches, and over 1000 clocks. The wristwatches run the gamut from low value Seikos to exceptionally rare vintage watches from Omega, like a platinum, skeletonised Speedmaster Moon Watch set with baguette diamonds. See the 1000 watch collection here. 1. A peek at an astounding, $15 million collection of contemporary horology

And our top story of 2013 is another collector profile. Mainly focussed on modern haute horlogerie, spanning both established brands and independent watchmakers, this collection is eye-watering assembly of some of the most important timepieces of the last 10 or 15 years. From the AP Royal Oak Concept to Patek minute repeaters, from Dufour to Voutilainen, it’s all in there. Read the full story here. – SJX Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for updates and news.

IWC has just announced the third limited edition for its on-line Collectors’ Forum, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Collectors’ Watch”, or the CF3. Based on the Spitfire chronograph, the CF3 has improvements which should appeal to traditionalists, like a soft iron cage to protect against magnetism.

Created for the members of the IWC Collectors’ Forum (though it can be ordered by the public), the IWC Collectors’ Forum CF3 is based on the Spitfire Pilot’s Chronograph, with the addition of some three tweaks. Most notably, the three date aperture has been scrapped in favour of the conventional single date window. Second, the 43 mm steel case has a solid back and a soft iron inner cage for protection against magnetism, something absent in the Spitfire. And lastly, the dial, or rather the top of the soft iron cage, is matte black with beige, faux aged Luminova on the hands and indices. While not significantly different from the regular model, the CF3 looks more like a traditional pilot’s watch, especially with the revised date window.

The IWC Collectors’ Forum was one of the earliest official brand forums to be set up, and is now very active, if narrow in scope. As its name implies, the CF3 Pilot’s chrono is the third Collectors’ Forum watch, the first being an Ingenieur and the second the Da Vinci chronograph.  Owners of the Ingenieur get first pick at serial numbers 1-100 of the CF3, since 100 of the Ingenieurs were made. The other numbers will be allocated on a first come, first served basis. The price of the CF3 is 11,500 Swiss francs, while in the USA it is US$11,800; and in other countries the price will be approximately the same. That is approximately 10% more than the regular Spitfire chronograph. The CF3 can be ordered from IWC.  – SJX Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for updates and news.

Daniel Roth played a key role in the revival of Breguet and its movement supplier Lemania starting in the seventies, before starting his eponymous brand in 1988. With that he became one of the first watchmakers to go down that path, paving the way for subsequent generations of independents like F. P. Journe.

Though he was a pioneer, Roth has not enjoyed the commercial success his peers and successors have. Now in his early sixties, Roth separated from his namesake brand when Bulgari bought it in 2000, whereupon he embarked on his second career act as an independent watchmaker, creating the Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon.

The company name is the combination of the names of his son, Jean, and Nicolas, his wife, as well as his own. And Roth himself has long had an affinity with the tourbillon, having helped created the Lemania tourbillon movement, one of the first wristwatch tourbillons.

The Two-Minute Tourbillon in platinum

Aided by Jean, the tourbillon is the only wristwatch Roth makes today, delivering only two or three watches a year. It is available in two cases, round and a form case shaped like an “8”. Both use the same base calibre, a hand-wound movement with a twin barrels and a 60 hour power reserve. It is fitted with a tourbillon regulator beating at a slow 18,000 bph with the carriage making one revolution every two minutes.

Photo courtesy Daniel Roth

Everything about the Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon feels traditional and hand-made. The aesthetics are slightly reminiscent of Breguet, unsurprising given Roth’s history. The dial is silvered, decorated with guilloche and the hands are blued steel, naturally.

The hand-engraved JDN logo

What is really striking about this timepiece is the craft, personal, intimate craftsmanship, that it embodies. The finishing is not perfect, but it is superb; it feels hand-made. Over on the front, the large, bat-shaped tourbillon bridge is a fine example of how steel should be finished. The top surface is black polished, all the edges are bevelled and polished, and the vertical flanks are brushed.

The tourbillon carriage, with its rounded arms, is equally well finished. However, some of the components of the tourbillon within the carriage, like the bridge for the escape wheel, are not as well finished.

Turn the watch over and the movement appears to have little of note from a distance, being just one large bridge with the barrel ratchet wheels and click. But up close its details stand out.

The movement bridge is German silver with its distinctive yellowish-silver hue. All of the text is done by hand, with the characteristic, slightly uneven lines of hand-engraving. To that, Roth applies Geneva stripes with unusual, broad, U-shaped waves.

And notice how the anglage on the bridge tapers towards a sharp point around the ratchet wheels. Though the anglage is is uneven in places, the tapered points are a rare and wonderful detail.

Neither widely known or available, Roth’s tourbillon is a beautiful and charming timepiece.  The Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon retails for 180,000 Swiss francs in pink gold and 200,000 Swiss francs in platinum.

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The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon is a tourbillon and moon phase, except that the tourbillon and moon phase are one and the same. Created in collaboration with Renaud & Papi, the Earth and Moon features an on-demand moon phase, called up with a pusher on the case.

Whereas most new moon phase mechanisms are improvements in the accuracy of the moon phase, typically achieved by using gears with more teeth, Carole Forestier’s goal in developing this calibre was to offer an alternative to the traditional moon phase display.  Forestier, Cartier’s head of technical development, has a knack for creatively re-imagining conventional complications, with the new Astrocalendar being one example. In the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon, the moon phase display is hidden, until called upon by means of a pusher at four o’clock. The aperture for the tourbillon functions as the moon disc, while the shadow of the moon is hidden underneath the dial at four o’clock. The pusher at four brings out the moon phase disc, which stops above the tourbillon, thus indicating the age of the moon.

Pusher at two is for the second time zone, while the one at four is for the on-demand moon phase

Once the pusher is released, the moon disc hovers for a moment before sliding back into the recess under the dial. A damping mechanism ensures the moon disc travels swiftly yet smoothly.

The moon phase disc hidden at bottom right

The moon phase mechanism here comprises two parts, the first being the conventional moon phase mechanism with wheels, and the second being the memory component, which remembers the current age of the moon and then displays it on demand. Not unlike a chronograph mechanism, the moon memory relies on a cam to ensure the moon disc stops at the right point.

Stock image showing the moon phase disc in use

The moon phase is accurate to a day in 126 years, which is comparable to the informal industry standard of a day in 122.5 years. In addition to the moon phase, the watch also has a second time zone, indicated by a pointer at 12 o’clock. This is advanced in one hour increments by the pusher at two.

Centred on an open-worked globe (hence the name Earth and Moon), the time display and second time zone are on the upper layer of the two level dial. Also on the upper layer are the oversized, skeletonised Roman numerals made of white gold and finished with a brushed top and bevelled edges. It is beneath the “IIII” that the moon phase disc resides when not in use.

Below the Roman numerals is the lapis lazuli dial, in a rich blue colour flecked with gold. The decision to use lapis lazuli for the dial, and also the moon phase disc, was partly historical – Cartier used the stone extensively in its lavish clocks of the twenties and thirties.

Comprising 362 parts, the 9440 MC movement is manual wind and has a three day power reserve. Like a few other complications from Cartier, the movement is manufactured by Renaud & Papi, which guarantees a high level of quality and robustness (and price) matched by few independent movement specialists.

The bridges of the movement are open-worked in a radial motif, bringing to mind stars and comets. They feature a brushed finish on top and prominent, polished bevels all round, a style of decoration common in many Cartier Fine Watchmaking timepieces. 

Below the skeleton bridges the finish is similarly monochromatic and equally fine, all the wheels are circular grained, and where necessary the spokes and rims are bevelled and polished.

Over on the front, the tourbillon bridge is black polished, with a beautiful finish on the chaton for the cap jewel. But the tourbillon bridge is flat, rather than rounded, which would have been visually more appealing and also more challenging to execute.

At 47 mm wide with a platinum case, the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon is a large and hefty watch. Combined with the blue dial, the watch is almost ostentatious in its appearance, which is atypical for Cartier. But that is not necessarily a bad thing, since most Cartier watches stick to a tried and tested design formula. This successfully departs from the norm. The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon is a limited edition of 50 numbered pieces with a retail price of €230,000 before taxes (~US$315,000). An additional 10 pieces will be made with baguette diamonds on the case and bezel, with a price tag of €490,000 (~US$671,000). – SJX

Created to mark the 50th anniversary of the Scheufele family’s ownership of Chopard, the L.U.C. 1963 is a limited edition, chronometer wristwatch fitted with a newly-developed but eminently traditional movement, LUC Calibre 63.01-L.

As a result, the movement in the L.U.C 1963 is executed to a high level, not unlike the finishing that a student would aspire to. Measuring a sizeable 38 mm in diameter, the LUC Calibre 63.01-L has several features found in traditional, high-end watchmaking, including the black polished steep cap on the escape wheel cock and the swan neck regulator.

All the bridges as well as the main plate are in German silver, with a contrasting, two-tone finish – the top surfaces of the bridges retain the natural silvery hue of German silver, while the bridge bevels and flanks, as well as the base plate are gilded.

Though classical in appearance the movement has the functions of a modern calibre – it beats at 28,800 bph and has a 60 hour power reserve.

Beautifully as the movement is – and most Chopard LUC calibres are exemplary in their category – the LUC 1963 has an awkward dial, especially in the overlapping, bull’s eye sub-seconds and the shape of the hands.

The dial is white lacquered

Two versions of the LUC 1963 will be available, rose gold or platinum, both of which are limited to 50 numbered pieces. The rose gold will retail for 47,900 Singapore dollars including 7% tax, equivalent to US$37,800. Pricing for the platinum has yet to be announced.

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A Dutch arbitration panel has just awarded the Swatch Group 402 million francs (US$449 million) in its dispute with Tiffany & Co., stemming from the dissolution of their watchmaking joint venture. That amount is larger than Tiffany’s most recent annual earnings.  The Swatch Group inked an agreement with Tiffany & Co. in 2007 to manufacture and sell Tiffany branded timepieces, but the joint venture broke down in 2011 with Swatch alleging its American partner was blocking the development of the business.  An arbitration panel in the Netherlands awarded Swatch 402 million francs plus legal fees and other expenses. The panel also dismissed Tiffany’s counter-claim, according to the Swatch Group.  The award is a significant figure compared to the 4.18 billion francs in revenue the Swatch Group posted for the six months to July 2013. For the same period its net income was 768 million francs. More significantly, the sum exceeds Tiffany’s annual profit, which for the nine months to October 31 was US$285 million, with revenue of US$2.7 billion. Earlier this year Swatch acquired Harry Winston for US$1 billion including debt, adding the luxury jeweller to its stable of brands and filling the gap left by the split with Tiffany. The arbitration award is equivalent to about 45% of the acquisition cost. – SJX

Soon to be launched officially at SIHH 2014, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendar is a perpetual calendar with tourbillon that introduces a novel ‘amphitheatre’ display for the calendar, as well as an entirely gear-based perpetual calendar mechanism that is far more robust than conventional set-ups.

The Cartier Astrocalendaire was conceived by the talented Carole Forestier, Cartier’s head of development, and sticks closely to the philosophy established for the brand’s Fine Watchmaking line. It re-imagines an existing complication, in this case the perpetual calendar, making it different (hence the new calendar display), but also improving it (the gear-based perpetual mechanism). Unlike conventional perpetual calendars with multiple sub-dials or windows, the Astrocalendar has the calendar display arranged in concentric, stepped rings, with a flying tourbillon at the centre. 

The outermost ring is for the date, followed by the month, and then the day. Each of them is indicated by a blue PVD window (which incidentally is made via three-dimensional printing). The changeover of the calendar windows is gradual, with the date jump taking place from roughly 11:25 pm to 12: 00 am, or about 35 minutes. On the longest jump, from February 28 to March 1, it takes four hours.

That gradual jump is due to the nature of the calendar mechanism, which is driven entirely by gears. The springs and clicks in typical perpetual calendars are absent in this movement. Springs and clicks allow for instantaneous calendar jumps, but also bring about certain functional issues. One is the non-linear torque delivered to the escapement, because of the sudden increase in power require by the calendar in the lead-up to the jump, and also the jump itself.

The other issue is owner induced – adjusting a conventional perpetual during the calendar changeover is likely to break the mechanism, hence the common warnings about not setting the calendar from 9 pm to 3 am.

The Cartier secret signature

Because the Astrocalendaire movement is gear based, it eliminates these problems. For one, torque is also linear regardless of the calendar changeover, since all the indications move gradually as the gears turn. Compared to a conventional perpetual calendar mechanism, the Astrocalendaire has an 80% improvement in amplitude during the lengthiest calendar changeover. The brain of the perpetual mechanism is a complex, multi-level wheel comprising 19 components, which controls and coordinates the calendar functions. It includes three retractable teeth, which account for the February 28 to March 1 leap year changeover. A patent is pending on the retractable teeth, an innovation which can be applied in other complications in which the indicator moves in variable increments. All of the calendar functions are controlled by the central, 19-part gear, except for the day. Because the day constantly advances in a linear manner, from Monday to Sunday, it is linked to the hour wheel. That allows the day to advance with the time, regardless of date or month or leap year. The gear-based perpetual mechanism also makes it more robust since it cannot be broken. All the perpetual functions (except for the day) are set via the crown, and more importantly, adjusting the calendar during a changeover will not damage the mechanism. Though this is not a new innovation (IWC pioneered this with its Da Vinci in the eighties), adjusting the calendar via the crown is eminently convenient. In the case of the Astrocalendaire, one full turn of the crown leads to nine jumps of the date, so just over three full turns of the crown is required to advance the calendar by one month. Taking it through an entire four year cycle requires 81 turns of the crown, which is tedious but is manageable, being equivalent to manually winding a watch with an eight day power reserve. But the Astrocalendaire has one significant, additional advantage – the calendar can be set backwards and forward. So if the calendar is accidentally set beyond the current date, it can easily be reversed. This eliminates the inconvenience of having to wait until the actual date catches up in an ordinary perpetual calendar which can only be set in one direction as is the case with the IWC Da Vinci mechanism. Setting the calendar via the crown also eliminates the annoying problem of having to refer to the instructions to figure out which pusher to press to advance individual calendar indications. But the Astrocalendaire does have one pusher, to advance the day indicator, which is separate from the perpetual calendar mechanism. This is easily accomplished, one push advances it by a day, while a week takes seven. Even if the calendar seems complex at first glance, it is easy to get used to. The calendar display is large and legible, and the blue windows are easy spotted. However, the Arial font for the calendar text is totally uninspiring; a serif font would suit the overall style better. 

Turn the Astrocalendaire over and the 9459 MC movement is revealed. The bridges are partially open-worked to reveal the numerous gears, 67 to be exact, of the perpetual calendar mechanism.

Prototype movement pictured so excuse the blemishes

And the leap year indicator is perched on one of the bridges.

Automatic with a 50 hour power reserve, the movement is made in the freshly opened Cartier high horology workshop in Geneva, which sits above its boutique on the posh lakeside shopping street at Rue du Rhône 35. Because it is assembled and finished in the Geneva workshop, it qualifies for the Geneva Seal, which was revamped in 2011 with the new standards in force from last year.

Though the movement decoration is simple in colour, being practically monochromatic, it is carefully executed. Everything is finished appropriately to Geneva Seal standards. One noteworthy detail is the evenly spaced circular graining on the base plate.

That being said, the movement is could do with a bit more colour, as well as more complex shapes on the bridges. The movement is a large calibre, as is the calendar display, which is one reason for the 47 mm diameter of the watch. And it is 15.7 mm thick, giving it plenty of heft. The Rotonde de Cartier case do not lend themselves well to such a large case size, because the interrupted lines of the case emphasise, rather than hide, the shape of the watch. 

The Astrocalendaire is a limited edition of 100 numbered watches in platinum with a retail price of €150,000 before taxes, equivalent to about US$205,000. – SJX Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for updates and news.

Prasart Vidhayapat has been collecting watches, and many other things, for 30 years. He now has about 1000 watches, and more than 1000 clocks. Most of these are on show in his office, which doubles as a watch gallery. We visited him and his treasure trove, and this is what we found.

His business card reads “The owner of private watch gallery” in addition to his corporate title. Prasart Vidhayapat, an entrepreneur who founded and runs a stationery supplier, works in an office surrounded – literally surrounded, wall to wall – by watches and clocks. In his 30 years of collecting Mr Vidhayapat has accumulated about 1000 watches, and well over 1000 clocks.  Based in Bangkok, Thailand, Mr Vidhayapat began his collection with this Seiko Sea Lion M88 some thirty years ago. Unable to afford the watch outright, he paid for it in instalments over four months. Its value, and original cost, pale in comparison to his other timepieces, but this Sea Lion is an important part of the collection.

Seiko Sea Lion M88

Now in his early sixties, Mr Vidhayapat’s enormous collection is mostly stored in his office  protected by four different alarm systems so if an alarm is triggered four security companies will respond. Naturally he has a good number of watches stored elsewhere, both at home and in a bank vault.

Prasart Vidhayapat…

With the Rolex King Midas on his wrist

Mr Vidhayapat works at a desk surrounded by watches and clocks, with yet more in the adjacent room which is the main display gallery. It would seem like a seriously distracting environment to try to accomplish anything.

Mr Vidhayapat’s desk

The watch gallery is beyond the glass doors

Various Thai collectors have visited the collection over the years

Ship clocks

Patek Philippe Naviquartz chronometers

The reception area of his office, where some of his clocks and vintage luggage is displayed; the large lighted clock at right is a decommissioned Deutsche Bundesbahn (German railways) clock

Nearly every wall of his office and the adjoining room is a glass display case. The watches on show are mostly arranged by brand, though some displays are centred around a theme, like coin watches for instance.

The Audemars Piguet display which includes a Star Wheel (centre top) and an early Huitieme tantalum chronograph (bottom left)

A display of carriage clocks

But the watches are not just on display, they are everywhere. Like any accomplished watch collector, Mr Vidhayapat also has watches stashed in boxes, pouches and drawers around the office.

A watch box with an assortment of timepieces…

Including an uncommon Cedric Johner Abyss jump hour

And a nylon pouch containing a trio, including a Panerai PAM197 8 Days (left) and a Omega Louis Brandt chronograph (right), part of Omega’s unsuccessful attempt at high horology in the nineties

What really distinguishes the collection though, aside from the sheer volume, are two things. The first is its incredible, extraordinary and almost unbelievable diversity in terms of both brand and chronology. To call the collection eclectic, multifaceted, extensive and wide-ranging, all at once, would be an understatement. Mr Vidhayapat collects everything – everything. His wristwatches range from vintage pocket-to-wristwatch conversions to Grand Seiko to Lange. . The timepieces in the collection span all extremes of the horological spectrum, ranging from the Audemars Piguet Offshore Terminator 3 at one end to the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2526 at the other.

Vintage Seiko including Grand Seiko and a watch for the blind (second from right)

Limited Edition Seiko watches made for Thailand including the Snow Monster (centre)

Lange 1 Moon Phase (left) and Datograph; he also has a Lange 1 World Time which is being serviced

Omega Bullhead (centre), along with Tissot and Bucherer Bullhead chronographs

Cartier Tortue Monopusher chronograph, just one of two he owns

Zenith and Movado El Primero Espada wristwatches

Swatch Tresor Magique with a 950 platinum case

Heuer Monaco

AP Offshore T3

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2526 in yellow gold

Though his collection contains a little bit of everything, Mr Vidhayapat knows what he likes in watches. His favourite brands are Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines and Heuer (and he emphasises only Heuer, sans TAG).  He also likes the early twentieth century wristwatches that were the immediate descendants of pocket watches; favouring wristwatches with wire lugs, counting over 100 of them in his collection, as well as wristwatches with hunter cases. The second detail that jumps out at you is how well curated the collection is. Every watch on display has a placard describing it, with model information, and often including a description and even a bit of background or history of the timepiece. Most of the timepieces on show are carefully described, even the little known watches, like this Mercedes-Benz wristwatch from the sixties made by Guyot & Cie.

Mercedes Benz wristwatch in 18k yellow gold containing the A. Schild 1873 movement

Some displays even have paraphernalia and props related to the timepiece, like this Corum Rolls Royce watch which includes a Rolls Royce clock, flask and scale model. The attention lavished on creating each display is phenomenal, and given the size of the attention, a never ending task. And that attention to detail is not just for the display cases. Mr Vidhayapat has records detailing each and every of his timepieces, complete with a small photo, filed away.

In fact Mr Vidhayapat is so enamoured by the hobby that he commissioned resin busts of his favourite historical figures in watchmaking, namely the founders of Heuer, Patek Philippe, Omega, Rolex and LeCoultre. And he did not just commission a handful, but over 60 examples of each bust, some of which he has donated to charities to be sold at fundraisers.

If it is not already obvious, Mr Vidhayapat has an uncommon tenacity as a collector. He cites the example of this fifties Universal Geneve wristwatch, which was worth only about THB30,000 two decades ago, or about US$900.  Mr Vidhayapat wanted to buy it back then, but the owner steadfastly refused to sell. So lay Mr Vidhayapat in wait, biding his time. 10 years later he finally acquired the watch – and had to pay THB170,000, or nearly six times as much.

Mr Vidhayapat is still growing the collection, naturally. From time to time he sells watches from his collection, but only if he has acquired a better specimen of the same model.

A pair of Patek refs. 5015 and a ref. 5054 in the middle; Mr Vidhayapat has additional 5015s stored elsewhere

But if Mr Vidhayapat really likes a particular timepiece, he has the urge to acquire several of them. The result is multiple examples of various watches, ranging from vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre triple calendars to the Patek Philippe ref. 5015.

The trio of Omega Constellation Grand Luxe

Similarly, being one of his favourites, the Omega Constellation pie pan can be found in multiple guises in his collection, including three specimens of the rare Constellation Grand Luxe with its distinctive gold bracelet.

A selection of coin watches

He has a strong inclination towards ultra-thin coin watches and has several dozen such timepieces from various brands, including Piaget, Corum and Audemars Piguet. When asked to bring out a handful of favourite timepieces, it was clearly a challenge. Mr Vidhayapat returned with two trays of watches, the bare minimum he could manage. His selections are as varied as the collection as a whole.

One of his favourites is a unique Corum coin watch made using a gold coin bearing Saddam Hussein’s visage, of which only one was ever made.

Another of his favourite timepieces is from the same genre, an Audemars Piguet ultra-thin coin watch which flips open to reveal the skeletonised cal. 2003.

Amongst his other favourites are vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre triple calendars, the Omega Constellation Grand Luxe with a diamond dial, Heuer’s Monaco and the Patek ref. 5054.

JLC triple calendars

A rare Omega Constellation Grand Luxe with a diamond dial…

And its brick bracelet

Heuer Monaco

Patek Philippe ref. 5054

Another watch he is particularly fond of is an Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch skeleton in platinum on a platinum bracelet, and set with baguette diamonds. Only five were made.

And what about servicing, one might ask? Mr Vidhayapat only gets a watch overhauled if he is wearing it and it stops keeping time, or if he wears a watch especially frequently. But it is not just about watches and clocks. Mr Vidhayapat also collects all manner of antiques, including pens, scientific instruments, militaria and even the ceramic toothpaste jars, similar to the ones recovered from the RMS Titanic. All of these objects accompany the watches on display.

Cherry toothpaste jars like those used on the Titanic

A sextant on the upper shelf and a line of microscopes on the shelf below

And for those wondering if the collection is still growing, the answer is a firm yes. Mr Vidhayapat continues to acquire watches from retailers, secondary market dealers as well as at auction. And often people with watches to sell contact him directly, since he is fairly well known in Thailand. Many thanks to Dr Chettha Songthaveepol of QP Magazine Thai Edition for arranging the visit to this extraordinary collection. More photos follow below. – SJX Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for updates and news.

An example of the earliest Seiko-branded wristwatch

A limited edition Breguet jump hour made for the Thai market with the crest of the Thai King on the dial

An ultra-thin Audemars Piguet also for Thailand

Early Daniel Roth wristwatches, the Papillon (left) and tourbillon

Daniel Roth tourbillon

The second Cartier Tortue monopusher

The Churchill Crash, made by a British firm in the seventies and modelled on the Cartier Crash

This is larger than the Cartier original

The AP Huitieme in tantalum from the late eighties

Heuer 1550SG Bundeswehr chronograph

Heuer Calculator Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin Jalousie

Assorted marine chronometers

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Ludwig GMT +/-

An early double-cased waterproof watch from Omega

Zenith chronometer

Omega Seamaster Titane

A selection of Movados from the eighties and nineties when the firm was doing more interesting things than it is now

A white gold Daytona with a sodalite dial

Novelty watches with erotic motifs

Omega Seamaster chronograph “Anakin Skywalker” with the “Darth Vader” the left

Yes, even the Romain Jerome Moon-DNA

Omega Speedmaster skeleton in platinum with diamonds

Omega Constellation Grand Luxe

Omega Centenary limited edition set of three chronometers

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Platinum No. 1

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reveil, alarm with perpetual calendar

Jaeger-LeCoultre triple calendar

IWC Porsche Design chronograph

Ebel Lichine

Parmigiani Toric chronograph

An early wristwatch chronograph

At SIHH 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre will present the latest version of the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931, this time with a chocolate dial and pink gold case, fitted on a cordovan strap made by polo equipment maker Casa Fagliano.

The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 has been a great success for Jaeger-LeCoultre. The case form has been adapted to multiple models, from the red dial Reverso Rouge to the Ultra Thin Skeleton, and more recently the Duoface. The latest model to join the family is the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 chocolate, fitted with a chocolate dial and faux aged Luminova to give it a vintage-ish look. Inspired by a vintage Reverso with a brown dial – looking that way due to age, rather than being manufactured in brown – the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 chocolate has a pink gold case in the standard 1931 dimensions. Measuring 46.8 mm by 27.4 mm, and standing 7.3 mm high, the case is large but elegant in proportions.

Thanks to its tie-up with Argentinian polo boot maker Casa Fagliano, the Reverso is supplied with two straps, one in brown alligator (probably made by Camille Fournet) and another in richly coloured cordovan made by Casa Fagliano. Cordovan is a resilient, oily leather made from a membrane just under the skin on the rear of a horse favoured used in shoes and polo boots. The Grande Reverso 1931 chocolate will retail for €12,700 before taxes, which is about US$17,300. – SJX Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for updates and news.