Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity.

Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface.

Initial thoughts

Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake.

The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava.

Simplexity

The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form the chapter ring for the hour markers.

It takes the domed form of the standard model, requiring curved applied indices and curved baton hands. The hands and indices are adjusted and installed by hand due to the curvature, which has to fit just right. The hands, hour markers, and applied spheres for the minute track are all solid 18k yellow gold.

While a date is sometimes unnecessary in such a simple design, here it is complementary. The chamfered date window sits at six o’clock, preserving the symmetry of the dial. More importantly, the date disc is gold plated to match the dial and the date numerals are in red, giving the dial a subtle colour accent that adds contrast.

The case is identical to the standard Patrimony Self-Winding, but in 18k yellow gold instead of pink gold. It features short, curved lugs, a slim bezel, and an undersized crown. Entirely mirror-polished, the case is 40 mm in diameter and 8.55 mm in thickness.

Beneath the sapphire back is the cal. 2450 Q6, the brand’s longstanding automatic calibre found in several models, including Metiers d’Art. It has 40 hours of power reserve and a 4Hz balance.

Composed of 196 components, the movement is impeccably decorated and bears the Poincon de Geneve. The 22k gold rotor is open worked to form a Maltese cross.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding 
Ref. 85180/000J-H069

Case diameter: 40 mm
Case height: 8.55 mm
Material: 18K 3N yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2450 Q6/3
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Burgundy calfskin leather strap with calf lining

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Now at Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: US$35,300

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.