This year’s Watches & Wonders got off with a strong start. Rolex unveiled a number of new models, with a strong accent on novel materials and precious metals. A first for the sporty landmark chronograph, the new Cosmograph Daytona comes with an enamelled dial.

Initial thoughts

Rolex is known in modern times for their mastery of both industrialised mechanical watchmaking and sound material science. The new Daytona is a product of the latter — it benefits from a new sort of ceramic bezel and notably a white enamel dial done a bit differently. 

At first sight, the new model reminds of the “Porcelain” Zenith-powered Daytonas. A sought-after configuration of pre-2000 Daytonas, the “Porcelain” was nicknamed as such due to the glossy finished white dial, which carried some resemblance to classic porcelain.

Among Rolex’s most beloved models, the Daytona has seen a fair share of makeovers over the years. Most special editions took advantage of the motorsport heritage of the chronograph and others added gems and precious alloys to the mix. 

The main selling point of this latest Daytona configuration is the enamel dial — a classic element which doesn’t normally connect to Rolex or to sports watches in general.

What Rolex successfully did was raise the appeal of the Daytona beyond just a sports chronograph, without resorting to any loud gem setting or full precious metal construction. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet (but modern) enamel and a new bezel configuration. 

The result is a model that is very close to the basic steel configuration, but becomes unique. The model will sell for $57,800 which seems a bit excessive for a mostly steel Daytona. A regular new Daytona would only set the buyer back close to $17,000, but perhaps the appeal of Rolex name and the exceptional configuration is enough to justify the price.

Anthracite ceramic

Anthracite is a sort of coal with a high carbon content, which gives it a particular metallic sheen. Rolex emulates that look and feel with their new ceramic composition, which is based on tungsten carbide enriched zirconia.

Ceramic bezels (and any other components for that matter) are known for their dull shine, but the bezel fitted to this new Daytona feels very metallic, sheening more like a precious alloy rather than a piece of industrial ceramic. The particular tungsten-zirconia composition was subject of a patent filed by Rolex as early as 2024.

The particular composition also modified the basic black colour of other Daytona bezels — the new model might look black in certain lighting scenarios and then appear grey in others. The particular nuance works rather well with the milky white enamel dial.

The tachymeter scale is “vertical”, meaning all the numbers area easy to read. The same design was used in original Daytonas from 1963, while most post-2000 versions have the tachymeter markings follow the curvature of the bezel.  

Rolex enamel

Enamel is among the most traditional ways to finish a dial, but the process is tedious and relies heavily on artisanal craft. Linking Grand Feu enamel with a regular production Rolex model would be rather counterintuitive. 

Regardless, Rolex went all in on enamel production, which has a notoriously high defect rate. Traditionally enamel powder mixture is applied to a metal blank, then fired at about 800°C in specialised kilns for multiple times. Due to air bubbles forming, creasing or improper handling, many dials are discarded for being defective or tainted. 

Rolex seems to have perfected a large-scale manufacturing of Grand Feu enamel dials. They did this by using thin ceramic disks which are coated with the enamel mixture instead of metal blanks. The result is not only a much thinner enamel, but also one that forms more uniformly and presumably has a lower failure rate. 

The use of ceramic as base instead of metal also prevents warping — when fired the enamel can contract, slightly bending its base. Since industrial ceramics are highly rigid this cannot happen. 

The enamel Daytona Dial is made form four pieces, the main dial and the three sub-dials for the chronograph functions. When assembled this way, the dial gets a dynamic, layered look, which aids with legibility. 

The lack of coloured rings for the sub dials might look odd at first sight, but the clean, milky white surface was kept the main point 

A familiar watch

Rolesium is Rolex’s proprietary mixture of 950 platinum and 904L “Oystersteel”. The alloy has an unique sheen and dates back to 1999. We’ve seen a fair share of platinum Daytonas, but this is the first model with Rolesium elements. 

The 40 mm case and bracelet of this Daytona configuration are made from Oystersteel but the transparent caseback is crafted from Rolesium, along with the thin band which encircles and protects the ceramic insert. It is a bit disappointing to see such little precious metal paired with an enamelled dial, but the steel construction keeps the piece’s price in check. 

The new Daytona is powered by caliber 4131, an evolution of the landmark cal. 4130. The movement streamlined all the kinks and (few) weaknesses of its predecessor and comes with better finishes, such as the gleaming Rolex Côtes de Genève and in this configuration a solid gold rotor.

The movement runs for 72 hours and beats at the industry-standard 4 Hz while being certified to keep time at -2/+2 seconds per day. 

Key facts and price

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Enamel Dial
Ref. 126502

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
Material: 904L Oystersteel with Rolesium caseback and bezel guard
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 4131
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet

Limited edition: Off-catalogue
Availability: From Rolex boutiques and retailers starting
Price: US$57,000 before taxes

For more, visit Rolex.com.