Patek Philippe celebrates the semicentennial of its coveted sports watch with the 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, a trio of two hand precious metal watches in white gold and platinum – and an unexpected pocket watch desk clock. The deletion of the seconds hand is a return to the line’s aesthetic roots, also demonstrated by a new 38 mm case size, very close to that of the original. But, it remains on the precious metal path Patek Philippe began in 2021 when it axed the steel ref. 5711.

Initial Thoughts

These anniversary editions are the truest to the original Nautilus that we’ve seen in recent memory. The sans seconds ref. 3700/1A, launched in 1976, was powered by the JLC 920-based cal. 28-355C, which the calibre 240 was meant to replace. While Audemars Piguet stuck to the two hands plug date format with the Royal Oak Jumbo, Patek Philippe migrated the Nautilus to its new sweep-seconds platform.

I believe something was lost when Patek Philippe added a sweep seconds hand to the Nautilus, though understandable from a business perspective given that watches with seconds hands generally have broader appeal than those without. That is recovered here, and the deletion of the calendar sets it apart from the original enough to not be a “reissue”. A smaller 38 mm Nautilus, with better proportions than the existing Ladies models, in also appreciated.

The 38 mm platinum ref. 5610/1P-001.

It is a shame then that the return of a two hand Nautilus is to be a fleeting one, as Patek Philippe will only build 5,000 of them, spread across three references. While that is an enormous number of watches considering the price point, Patek Philippe makes just over 70,000 watches per year, and has the brand power to sell every sports watch it makes in short order, so these limited editions will be short lived.

The choice of case materials, white gold and platinum, perhaps leaves the door open to a regular production steel version in the near future, but for now Patek Philippe’s leadership remains set on the Nautilus being a precious metal first collection.

I was quite surprised that Patek Philippe even celebrated the Nautilus’s 50th anniversary during the Watches & Wonders fair, expecting them to save it for the second half of the year, as had been the case for other sports launches in recent years. Perhaps that implies something we will see something else is in the pipeline, or perhaps not. Patek Philippe is rather hard to predict.

Three’s a Crowd

Ref. 5610/1P-001 acts as flagship of the 50th anniversary fleet at 38 mm in diameter with a platinum case and priced at CHF90,000. While platinum is nothing new for the Nautilus line – it also marked the collection’s 40th anniversary – this will be by far the most produced example at 2,000 pieces.

It is extremely thin, only 6.9 mm, thanks to the cal. 240 inside, a movement that has been in Patek Philippe’s portfolio for about as long as the Nautlius (49 years) but remains a reliable workhorse, and thanks to Patek Philippe’s investments, keeps to an outstanding -1/+2 seconds per day, despite the tiny balance.

It comes on a full platinum bracelet, with Patek Philippe’s recently reintroduced quick adjust clasp, and uses the same front loading case construction of the 1978 original. It is worth pointing out that while the ref. 3700/1A is quoted at 42 mm in diameter, that is when measured form winglet to winglet, measured diagonally it was also about 38 mm.

41 mm Duo

Patek Philippe also offers a larger, 41 mm variant in white gold – 5810/1G-001, also on the bracelet. Despite its greater size, and the greater cost of white gold to platinum, this variant is significantly less expensive, though still ambitiously priced at CHF75,000.

Additionally, it has a sibling in the ref. 5810G-001, essentially the same watch on the fabric pattern composite strap with baguette diamond hour markers. This variant is the most limited, outside of the 8-day desk clock, though is also the least expensive at “only” CHF60,000.

The First Nautlius Pocket Watch

The most limited off all the semicentennial pieces is ref. 958G-001, which Patek Philippe claims to be a desk clock, even though it is very clearly a pocket watch with a kickstand, even using the three digit reference scheme used for Pocket watches, rather than the five digit one for desk and dome clocks.

It uses the same verbosely named cal, 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J found in last year’s 8-day Calatrava, with its roots going back to the 10-day Manta Ray models that marked the new Millenium. It sports an instantaneous calendar with day and date, in addition to eight days of going and an up/down indicator.

With a lofty price tag of CHF205,000, not unexpected given the high-end movement, 50.65 mm white gold case and baguette diamond hour markers, though notably doesn’t seem to come with a chain. Not that it needs one, as it is a desk clock, not a pocket watch – even if it has a bow to attach a chain.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Collection
Ref. 5610/1P-001
Ref. 5810/1G-001
Ref. 5810G-001

Diameter: 38 mm (ref. 5610/1P), 41 mm (ref. 5810/1G and 5810G)
Height: 6.9 mm
Material: Platinum 950 (ref. 5610/1P), 18k palladium white gold (ref. 5810/1G and 5810G)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: cal. 240
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 BPH (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Bracelet in same metal as case (ref. 5610/1P and 5810/1G), composite strap (ref. 5810G)

Limited edition: Yes, 2,000 pieces (ref. 5610/1P and 5810/1G), 1,000 pieces (ref. 5810G)
Availability: At Patek Philippe retailers and salons.
Price: US$112,529 (ref. 5610/1P) , US$93,774 (ref. 5810/1G), US$75,019 (ref. 5810G)

Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Desk Clock
Ref. 958G-001

Diameter: 50.65 mm
Height: 13.5 mm
Material: 18k palladium white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Humidity and dust resistaint only.

Movement: cal. 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J
Functions: Hours, minutes, running small seconds, instantaneous day and date, power reserve indication.
Frequency: 21,600 BPH (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual winding
Power reserve: 8 days

Limited edition: Yes, 100 pieces.
Availability: At Patek Philippe retailers and salons.
Price: US$$256,315

For more, visit Patek.com.

For more, visit Patek.com.