Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well. 

Initial thoughts

Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation.   

After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature. 

While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials — a 24-hour indicator and small seconds — are reminiscent of similarly executed Greubel Forsey indicators. These elements don’t really feel like an imitation, but rather as a subtle tribute to modern artisanal watchmaking. 

The Flamingo’s aesthetics are, like much of Suhanov’s work, an acquired taste. The blend of classical watchmaking and industrial influence is an interesting, and this tension runs through the structure, design, and colour palette of the dial in equal measure. The large balance wheel dominates the dial — its large size immediately distinguishes the movement as an in-house creation.

Is it a bird? A balance?

The Flamingo takes its name from its so-called “flaming” balance. A world’s first, the flaming balance is an otherwise ordinary (if over-sized) balance wheel with three large Super-LumiNova discs set into its rim — a trick Mr Suhanov has used to good effect in his clocks. As the balance oscillates in darker environments, the luminescent material glows and creates the impression of a fiery dance.

While the light show is simply that, the effect is interesting and quite unique. In this regard the Flamingo feels more like a wearable kinetic sculpture than a watch — with precisely the kind of singular character that is often lost in the name of tradition.

Beyond the flaming regulator, the dial’s design echoes that of his earlier Chronotope, with a mix of monochromatic grey textures and industrial touches. The screws holding various parts of the dial are on full display and fully polished.

The main dial is slightly raised and framed by a steel sector which doubles as the balance bridge. While the bridge is carefully brushed and polished, graining remains the core finishing technique exhibited on the dial side. 

Of note is Mr Suhanov’s original use of artificial ruby stones and pallets for decorative purposes. Such jewels are commonly used inside the movement as functional bearings or escapement components. Here each hand on the dial incorporates a ruby tip for aesthetic purposes only. It doesn’t hurt that vivid pink rubies are close in colour to the watch’s namesake flamingoes.

This inventive motif continues on the sharply ridged crown, which features its own inset ruby pallets. Mr Suhanov explained that by adding this visual cue, the wearer gets a better sense of the winding cycle when operating the crown. 

Going in-house

The past decade has seen a rise in independent watchmakers starting to migrate toward in-house movements. This trend is especially evident for smaller, artisanal workshops that wish to affirm their place in an increasingly crowded market.

In this context, Mr Suhanov’s workshop is among the smaller outfits to roll out a fully in-house caliber. That this was accomplished in a relatively short period of time, far from existing supply chains, is commendable. 

Arguably the best movement to come from St. Petersburg in recent years — Konstantin Chaykin started there but relocated to Moscow — the Su26.1L is a large hand-wound movement that beats at a classical 2.5 Hz frequency. A quirky but useful detail is the non-linear power reserve indicator, which accelerates as the reserve depletes. In the final 12 hours, it moves at twice the rate it does when the movement is fully wound — a deliberate nudge to keep the watch wound — something we’ve seen before from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne.

The Su26.1L is laid out unconventionally, with familiar components arranged in unfamiliar positions across the case back. Two mainspring barrels unwind in parallel, delivering a total power reserve of around 84 hours, with the two click wheels sitting at a deliberate distance from the signed crown wheel.

Most watchmakers seeking extended power reserve turn to smaller, serially linked barrels. Mr Suhanov instead took advantage of advances in modern mainspring technology — a single barrel is now capable of delivering three or more days of reserve — and added a second barrel not for duration but for torque stability, ensuring a more consistent power delivery to the going train.

The need for increased, steadier torque over the 84 hours of runtime might be related to the large, 15.7 mm balance wheel. The balance is not only large in the sense of its diameter, but it looks especially heavy due to the large inertia blocks and luminous inserts, making for a what is certainly a large moment of inertia value. The larger the inertia, the more energy is needed to sustain the oscillations at the proper amplitude — hence the need for a strong motor organ. 

The three mobiles of the going train are elevated over the mainplate and are fully visible. The escapement assembly however is concealed, remaining unseen from both the dial and case back side of the movement. This creates the impression that the balance oscillates on its own, engaged by forces unseen. Thanks to its “flaming” design, the regulating organ becomes a display element as much as a functional piece. The three Super-LumiNova discs that create this effect likely complicate the processes of poising and adjustment.

Though the balance wheel is a variable-inertia design, the system is not fully free-sprung, as there is an index regulator working with the flat end portion of the hairspring for regulating the rate. While free-sprung balances have long been a de facto mark of technical know-how, a classic regulator might prove objectively more useful for quick adjustments during servicing given the oversized balance. Disappointingly, there is no Breguet overcoil — a detail that would have added another layer of technical interest and elegance to the dial. 

In terms of finishing, the Flamingo exhibits a mix of industrial and artisanal finishes from machine-engraved text to hand-polished anglage. There are a total of 73 internal angles — 60 of which are found in the exposed gears alone. The remaining 13 are found on the bridges at the intersections of rounded bevels. The larger surfaces feature a traditional mix of narrow Geneva stripes and perlage, which peaks out in a few places.

The two barrel click wheels are concave towards the center and black polished. They also carry engravings of the calibre name is relief, over a grained surface — the same as the brad signature on the crown wheel. 

Finally, the movement takes some inspiration from its St. Petersburg terroir, though it takes some imagination to see it. The Y-shaped train bridge, for example, is meant to mimic the point where the Neva River divides into the Bolshaya Neva and Malaya Neva. The jewel at its center marks the location of the Peter and Paul Fortress, and Mr Suhanov’s logo on the winding wheel cover roughly indicates his workshop’s position in the city relative to these landmarks.

Key facts and price

Anton Suhanov Flamingo

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.5 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Su26.1L
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, 24 hour indicator and power reserve
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 84 hours

Strap: Calfskin with steel pin buckle

Limited edition: Yes, 38 pieces
Availability: Direct from Anton Suhanov
Price: Upon request

For more information, visit Anton-suhanov.com.