IWC teams up with Vast, prospective constructors of the International Space Station’s private successor, with the IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, a uniquely astronaut-friendly take on a spacefaring watch that breaks new ground for IWC’s signature pilots watches.

If all goes well, these watches pass the Kármán line next year when Vast plans to launch the Haven-1 commercial space station.

Initial thoughts

Vast is an American aerospace company hoping to develop modular commercial space stations (Haven-2), and, at a glance seems more promising than the average ambitious space startup. If all goes to plan, the Vast Pilot will launch with the Vast’s Haven-1 prototype space station in 2027.

The Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive — which could easily have been called the “Vast Pilot” as a play on its popular Big Pilot — is among the most visually appealing watches from IWC in recent memory.

Computer rendering of the Vast Haven-1. Image – Vast Pressroom

The combination of white and dark gray, and a clean but technical look leans into the “NASA Punk” aesthetic. The minimalist industrial look calls to mind watches like the IWC Ocean 2000, designed by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche.

The gradated blue horizon around the dial is an inspired thematic choice, and is paired with a matching seconds hand. The lack of a chronograph is surprising, given IWC’s general affinity for them, as well as their domination of the space watch genre.

I find that refreshing, since the functionality could not hope to replicate that of digital watches designed specifically for modern space flight.

IWC aimed to make the watch easy to manipulate while wearing a space suit, though I am not sure why this is desirable. In fact, being able to disturb the time during extravehicular activity (EVA) seems undesirable. Regardless, luxury mechanical watches are not mission-critical equipment for modern astronauts, so the practical implications are less important than the coolness they add.

Image – IWC

The CHF24,000 price tag is a more serious issue. I expect a specialty product like this to come at a premium, but I’d also expect it to use one of IWC’s higher end seven-day movements, which is also more befitting the 44.3 mm diameter.

Vertical Drive

The Vertical Drive system dispenses with the usual means of interacting with the movement — the crown. Instead, this function is delegated to the rotating bezel. The eponymous “Vertical Drive” system is a clutch that connects the bezel to the movement.

The rocker switch opposite where the crown would normally be switches between modes for time setting, manual winding, and independent hour hand adjustment. In winding mode, turning the bezel counterclockwise winds the watch.

The mode selection rocker.

Time setting mode  stops the movement, which is useful for synchronising multiple timekeepers, but makes it easier to disturb timekeeping during an EVA.

Space case

Space lift doesn’t come cheap; it costs several dollars to get a single gram of material into orbit, so the use of a lightweight ceramic and Ceratanium case makes practical sense. The second material, Ceratanium, is IWC’s trade name for titanium blackened by a protective oxide layer.

During takeoff, commercial airliners rarely accelerate quicker than three m/s², less than a third the 9.8 m/s² of acceleration due to gravity that we feel at all times. You can expect three to four times that onboard a manned rocket during takeoff.

As dramatic as that sounds, it isn’t actually an issue for watches. But, just to be safe, IWC subject the watch to rapid, repeated directional changes at 10g. While a watch technically experiences 5,000g during a 1-metre drop onto a wood floor (see ISO 1413) that is only for an instant, while IWC’s testing seems to be sustained.

Image – IWC

The vibrations, however, can be more of a challenge, though the human wearing the watch acts as a vibration dampener of sorts. IWC used a vibration table to validate this capability. The watches were also tested against over and underpressure, as many lubricants would quickly boil off in the near-vacuum environment of low earth orbit.

Vast’s final requirement was minimal off-gassing, which, depending on the gasses in question, can be harmful to astronauts in such confined quarters. The rubber strap is a fluoroelastomer, which, in addition to excellent UV resistance, is generally very stable at high temperatures or low pressures — factors that tend to increase off-gassing.

Vertical driver

IWC hasn’t releases images of the movement, cal. 32722, but based on its designation and five-day power reserve it is presumably a sibling of the cal. 32111 in the latest Ingenieur — essentially an enlarged version of Cartier’s workhorse cal. MC 1847 with a longer power reserve, thanks to a larger barrel and lightened silicon escapement.

The Baume et Mercier is closely related to IWC’s mid-sized automatics Baumatic. This example boats a free sprung balance, which is hopefully true of the IWC as well.

It is also self-winding, though automatic winding is less efficient during EVA as astronauts (and their watches) are in free-fall. It uses the Magic Lever winding system, originally developed by Suwa Seikosha, which winds in both directions with a small, but variable, dead angle, which on the Seiko Spacewalk proved able to keep the watch wound.

Key facts and price

IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive
Ref. IW328601

Diameter: 44.3 mm
Height: 16.7 mm
Material: Ceramic and blackened titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 32722
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, second time zone.
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 120 hours

Strap: Matching integrated rubber strap

Limited edition: No, but likely limited production.
Availability: At IWC boutiques
Price: CHF24,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit iwc.com.

This year’s Watches & Wonders got off with a strong start. Rolex unveiled a number of new models, with a strong accent on novel materials and precious metals. A first for the sporty landmark chronograph, the new Cosmograph Daytona comes with an enamelled dial.

Initial thoughts

Rolex is known in modern times for their mastery of both industrialised mechanical watchmaking and sound material science. The new Daytona is a product of the latter — it benefits from a new sort of ceramic bezel and notably a white enamel dial done a bit differently. 

At first sight, the new model reminds of the “Porcelain” Zenith-powered Daytonas. A sought-after configuration of pre-2000 Daytonas, the “Porcelain” was nicknamed as such due to the glossy finished white dial, which carried some resemblance to classic porcelain.

Among Rolex’s most beloved models, the Daytona has seen a fair share of makeovers over the years. Most special editions took advantage of the motorsport heritage of the chronograph and others added gems and precious alloys to the mix. 

The main selling point of this latest Daytona configuration is the enamel dial — a classic element which doesn’t normally connect to Rolex or to sports watches in general.

What Rolex successfully did was raise the appeal of the Daytona beyond just a sports chronograph, without resorting to any loud gem setting or full precious metal construction. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet (but modern) enamel and a new bezel configuration. 

The result is a model that is very close to the basic steel configuration, but becomes unique. The model will sell for $57,800 which seems a bit excessive for a mostly steel Daytona. A regular new Daytona would only set the buyer back close to $17,000, but perhaps the appeal of Rolex name and the exceptional configuration is enough to justify the price.

Anthracite ceramic

Anthracite is a sort of coal with a high carbon content, which gives it a particular metallic sheen. Rolex emulates that look and feel with their new ceramic composition, which is based on tungsten carbide enriched zirconia.

Ceramic bezels (and any other components for that matter) are known for their dull shine, but the bezel fitted to this new Daytona feels very metallic, sheening more like a precious alloy rather than a piece of industrial ceramic. The particular tungsten-zirconia composition was subject of a patent filed by Rolex as early as 2024.

The particular composition also modified the basic black colour of other Daytona bezels — the new model might look black in certain lighting scenarios and then appear grey in others. The particular nuance works rather well with the milky white enamel dial.

The tachymeter scale is “vertical”, meaning all the numbers area easy to read. The same design was used in original Daytonas from 1963, while most post-2000 versions have the tachymeter markings follow the curvature of the bezel.  

Rolex enamel

Enamel is among the most traditional ways to finish a dial, but the process is tedious and relies heavily on artisanal craft. Linking Grand Feu enamel with a regular production Rolex model would be rather counterintuitive. 

Regardless, Rolex went all in on enamel production, which has a notoriously high defect rate. Traditionally enamel powder mixture is applied to a metal blank, then fired at about 800°C in specialised kilns for multiple times. Due to air bubbles forming, creasing or improper handling, many dials are discarded for being defective or tainted. 

Rolex seems to have perfected a large-scale manufacturing of Grand Feu enamel dials. They did this by using thin ceramic disks which are coated with the enamel mixture instead of metal blanks. The result is not only a much thinner enamel, but also one that forms more uniformly and presumably has a lower failure rate. 

The use of ceramic as base instead of metal also prevents warping — when fired the enamel can contract, slightly bending its base. Since industrial ceramics are highly rigid this cannot happen. 

The enamel Daytona Dial is made form four pieces, the main dial and the three sub-dials for the chronograph functions. When assembled this way, the dial gets a dynamic, layered look, which aids with legibility. 

The lack of coloured rings for the sub dials might look odd at first sight, but the clean, milky white surface was kept the main point 

A familiar watch

Rolesium is Rolex’s proprietary mixture of 950 platinum and 904L “Oystersteel”. The alloy has an unique sheen and dates back to 1999. We’ve seen a fair share of platinum Daytonas, but this is the first model with Rolesium elements. 

The 40 mm case and bracelet of this Daytona configuration are made from Oystersteel but the transparent caseback is crafted from Rolesium, along with the thin band which encircles and protects the ceramic insert. It is a bit disappointing to see such little precious metal paired with an enamelled dial, but the steel construction keeps the piece’s price in check. 

The new Daytona is powered by caliber 4131, an evolution of the landmark cal. 4130. The movement streamlined all the kinks and (few) weaknesses of its predecessor and comes with better finishes, such as the gleaming Rolex Côtes de Genève and in this configuration a solid gold rotor.

The movement runs for 72 hours and beats at the industry-standard 4 Hz while being certified to keep time at -2/+2 seconds per day. 

Key facts and price

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Enamel Dial
Ref. 126502

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
Material: 904L Oystersteel with Rolesium caseback and bezel guard
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 4131
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet

Limited edition: Off-catalogue
Availability: From Rolex boutiques and retailers starting
Price: US$57,000 before taxes

For more, visit Rolex.com.

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line — where it arguably makes the most sense.

It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch.

Initial thoughts

The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches.

That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication.

The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating weight.

Travelling in luxury

The signature complication of the Sport Traveller is simple and intuitive — more so than traditional GMT complications. The left side of the case features two pushers: the upper pusher jumps the hour hand forward in hourly increments, while the lower pusher adjusts it backward. This allows the user to update the watch to local time quickly without using the crown.

This functional simplicity — similar to that of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164 — should appeal to any bleary-eyed jet-setter.

Unlike the Aquanaut, the Sport Traveller uses a 24-hour disc and a nine o’clock aperture to display the home time zone. This format keeps the central hand stack clean and legible, while eliminating the need for an auxiliary day/night indication for home time.

Like the date window on the opposite side of the dial, the home time aperture features the brand’s distinctive sloped opening, intended to allow more light to reach the disc, thereby improving legibility. Even if the effect is minimal, the symmetrical ramps bring some interest to what would otherwise be plain cut-outs.

Grey anatomy

The case and integrated bracelet are made of grade 5 titanium, as is the folding clasp. It’s a lightweight and reasonably hard-wearing material, being more scratch resistant than grade 2 titanium.

The 42 mm case is 13.3 mm thick, and is rated to a reassuring 100 m. These dimensions are nearly identical to those of the time-only Sport, growing just 0.5 mm in diameter and 0.6 mm in thickness. While not a large watch, it is chunkier than some peers in a category that emphasises elegance.

The design of the anthracite grey dial breaks no new ground and is immediately recognisable as a Laurent Ferrier Sport. Befitting its stature, the hands and dial markers are solid 18k white gold, with a high palladium content to head-off oxidation. Those assagi-shaped hands and dagger indices are filled with green-tinged Super-LumiNova, as seen on the time-only Sport.

Expensive dial furniture aside, the highlight of the dial might be the ‘Sport Traveller’ text, which is printed tone-on-tone for maximum discretion.

The three-link integrated bracelet draws some inspiration from popular 1970s designs. On paper, the bracelet seems well-built with strong attention to detail evident in its construction. The fully brushed look suits the restrained nature of the watch, and the screwed links are welcome.

That said, bracelet making is as much an art as a science, and few independent brands have truly mastered the craft, so many smaller brands rely on third-party suppliers — with mixed results. In this case, the Sport’s titanium bracelet feels less refined than the rest of the watch, with links that tend to feel somewhat loose.

Robust and elegant

Laurent Ferrier’s Traveller complication has always been paired with its LF229 micro-rotor platform (taking the name LF230), which features a 3 Hz balance and the brand’s unique take on the natural escapement. Until now, that is.

While intended to reduce or even eliminate the need for lubricated pallets, Laurent Ferrier’s approach to the natural escapement relies on extremely precise tolerances for reliable function. This sensitivity means the escapement is not ideally suited to life in a sports watch.

As a result, the Sport collection relies on the LF27x platform, which features a more robust — if more ordinary — lever escapement. It also ticks at a higher frequency of 4 Hz, which improves rate stability during rough wear.

The Sport Traveller’s LF275.01 movement features an all-grey look, right down to the solid platinum micro-rotor, which, unusually, is secured between the mainplate and its own bridge for improved stability.

The winding mass has some interesting details of its own. The rotor’s rim is engraved with arrows pointing in the winding direction — unlike earlier Laurent Ferrier automatics, the LF275.01 winds in just one direction — and the hub is engraved with Mr Ferrier’s exploits as a racing driver, including his 1979 podium at Le Mans.

Laurent Ferrier can usually be counted upon to deliver expert finishing, and that is the case here. Unfortunately, the dark colour and simple texture palette — the large bridge forms feature a simple straight-grained treatment — make it harder to appreciate the quality of the work.

The steelwork is richly black polished and the anglage and countersinks gleam, but this effort is obvious under a narrower range of lighting conditions than is typical for the brand’s more traditional calibres.

On a technical level, the movement holds up to scrutiny, with a convenient 72-hour power reserve and a free-sprung balance that oscillates on an overcoil hairspring.

Key facts and price

Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller
Ref. LCF045.T1.NG1C7

Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: LF275.01
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: From Laurent Ferrier authorised retailers
Price: CHF61,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit laurentferrier.ch..

A. Lange & Söhne has introduced the Saxonia Annual Calendar, the brand’s most compact annual calendar to date. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar plays to the strengths of Germany’s foremost watchmaker, combining a compact 36 mm case with an intuitive and legible ‘outsize date’ design reminiscent of the brand’s famed perpetual calendars.

The new cal. L207.1 hints at future developments while incorporating refined details such as gold chatons around the going train jewels — a finishing touch that has been absent from the brand’s ‘entry-level’ automatic movements until now.

Initial thoughts

There’s been a palpable trend toward smaller watches in recent years — Lange’s 34 mm 1815 released last year was a major hit, and it seems like there’s more of a focus on dimensions and thickness than at any other time in the past decade or so. In this context, the Saxonia Annual Calendar should be well-received. At just 36 mm in diameter and under 10 mm thick, the watch is compact even by the standards of time-only watches.

In fact, it’s the most compact annual calendar yet from Lange, and the small size of the dial makes the big date format especially convenient for those, like myself, who have trouble reading pointer dates at arm’s length.

In fact, I’d argue the enhanced legibility and differentiated design of the big date makes the Saxonia Annual Calendar competitive with more complicated (but equally compact) perpetual calendars like the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.

The Saxonia Annual Calendar is powered by the new cal. L207.1, which looks a lot like the older L086.1. Visually, the easiest way to distinguish these movements at a glance is to look for the presence of gold chatons around the jewels in the going train — the new calibre has three, the older platform has none. This is a welcome addition that makes for a more dignified appearance, even if the relief detail on the rotor appears a tad more simplistic.

Saxon style

The Saxonia Annual Calendar returns in two variants: 18k white gold with a silver dial, and 18k pink gold with a grey dial. In either case, the dial itself is made of solid sterling silver rather than the more common brass, endowing the watch with reassuring heft.

The sunken sub-dials for the day and month are offset below the centre line of the dial to avoiding crowding the big date at 12 o’clock, and are decorated with concentric snailing, giving the dial plenty of depth — an especially satisfying characteristic in a thin watch. The typical Lange hands are solid gold, as are the applied dial markers, which exhibit a new pyramid-like shape at the perimeter.

The case design is typical Lange, which means it’s easily identifiable despite being a simple, round shape. The faceted, welding lugs are the first giveaway, and the brushed case band is another. Like F.P. Journe, Lange developed a simple case and has stuck with it, with very little variation, throughout its history, creating an unmistakable look in the process.

New calibre, familiar look

Lange produces an unusually wide range of movements relative to the number of models the brand produces, to the point that most models feature a distinct calibre. Case in point, the cal. L207.1 is an all-new platform distinct from the similar-looking L086.1.

These movements have a lot in common, including a 3 Hz rate and a 30.4 mm diameter, but the revised automatic movement trades autonomy for torque, with a 60-hour power reserve — 14 hours longer than the micro-rotor cal. L085.1 that powered the first generation Saxonia Annual Calendar from a decade ago, but 12 hours shorter than the L086.1 with big date (sans annual calendar).

This progression may seem counterintuitive, but it suggests the L207.1 has the torque to power a wider range of complications. As expected from Lange, the movement is richly hand-finished in the house style, and exhibits more craftsmanship and care than comparable calibres from the brand’s Swiss rivals.

The black-polished steelwork of the escape wheel cap and swan’s neck fine adjustment system, deployed in this case to adjust the beat, rather than the rate, are features that are increasingly rare. The hand-engraved balance cock is another signature, rooted in a distinctly German identity. Beyond decoration, the movement features an uncommon technical detail: the hairspring is made in-house at the brand’s manufacture in Glashütte.

Lange has always approached movement design with a strong emphasis on user-friendliness and legibility, and that mentality is on full display in the Saxonia Annual Calendar. There’s a clear priority of information discernible from the design, with the big date display front and centre.

Furthermore, the movement is quick and easy to adjust, with a prominent pusher at 10 o’clock that advances all calendar displays forward simultaneously. Once a year, at the beginning of March or during initial setup, the user will need to adjust the displays manually using a stylus to engage flush-fitting correctors built into the case.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar
Ref. 331.026E (white gold)
Ref. 331.033 E (pink gold)

Diameter: 36 mm
Height: 9.8 mm
Material: 18k white or pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L207.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, big date, annual calendar, moon phase
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques
Price:

For more, visit Alange-soehne.com.

A. Lange & Söhne turns once again to its greatest hits for its flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” bestows the translucent, luminous treatment to the top-of-the-line Lange 1 in a 50-piece limited edition in platinum.

Powered by the L225.1, an upgrade on the previous generation movement, the latest Lumen edition has a grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals glow-in-the-dark elements, including the date discs and moon phase. Over the back, the edition is also set apart by a pair of steel cocks sporting engraving of stars.

Initial thoughts

The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” stands out as one of the most appealing Lumen models; I’d rank it up there along with the original Zeitwerk “Phantom” in terms of appeal. The Lumen treatment works best with lot of obvious luminous components, which is the case here.

Flourishes like the luminous bases for each of the Roman hour numerals are a pleasing touch. The twin engraved steel cocks are especially noteworthy; the concept is classic Lange but the engraved star motif adds variety.

That said, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” scores highly, maybe even perfectly, in terms of intrinsic and tactile appeal. The technical accomplishment is also top class: the calendar is instantaneous, movement construction is sophisticated, and decoration is outstanding.

But this arguably scores less well in terms of originality or creativity. The movement is a new calibre – it adds a clever day-night display and reworked going train – but it is arguably still a variant of the first generation at heart.

Large, lavish, and Lumen

The new Lumen edition sticks to the same basic format of the original Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. The platinum case is 41.9 mm wide and 13 mm high, appropriately sized and average for a complicated Lange wristwatch. Like all such Lange wristwatches, this has a substantive heft on the wrist.

The dial similarly retains the familiar perpetual calendar display that was cleverly arranged to fit into the iconic Lange 1 layout. The months indicator, for instance, is smartly positioned on the periphery of the dial, while the day of the week is a retrograde display on a fan-shaped scale on the left of the dial.

This asymmetrical yet logical layout makes for a legible calendar, made all the more easier to read with the instantaneous displays. Visually, it is enhanced by the Lumen makeover, which employs a translucent, grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals the components below.

The date, moon phase, and leap year discs are all luminous, as are the months and Roman hour numerals, making for a particularly vivid display in the dark. Notably, the luminous moon phase also incorporates a day and night display that’s superimposed under the moons, making it a double display.

All of the calendar indications are set via pushers in the case band. Though a traditional solution, it has been made more convenient with one pusher that advances all indications together in sync, which is most useful when the calendar only needs to be advanced a relatively short period. A set of additional pushers each advances a specific indicator for more complex adjustments.

Stars on steel

The technical brilliance of the movement inside also extends to the back, which reveals the one-minute tourbillon that features a decorative diamond endstone. Pull the crown and a lever touches the balance wheel, stopping the tourbillon and seconds hand for precise time setting. This patented invention was a world first when Lange debuted it in 2008.

From the rear, the L225.1 resembles the calibre of the original Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, but with a few enhancements. The most apparent is the monochromatic rotor. In a first for Lange, the rotor is 18k white gold plated with black rhodium, instead of the conventional yellow gold; the outer rim of the rotor remains platinum as it has always been.

Continuing the monochromatic decorative theme, the tourbillon cock and the intermediate-wheel cock are both black-polished steel, giving them a dark grey appearance. Both are further embellished with an engraving depicting a star motif, with the tourbillon cock having the bonus of a shooting star.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”
Ref. 720.035FE

Diameter: 41.9 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L225.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day-night indicator, perpetual calendar with leap year, tourbillon with hacking mechanism
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques
Price:

For more, visit Alange-soehne.com.

Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand’s new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production.

We’ll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry’s biggest event.

Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.

Cartier’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2026 include notable crowd pleasers, with a standout being the Santos-Dumont LM with a mesh-link bracelet in matching precious metal. Inspired by watch bracelets of the 1920s, the new bracelet is 15 links across with each link just 1.15 mm high, making it supple and ergonomic. Very much catering to fad for such bracelets, it is also removable and sports a double-folding clasp.

The new Santos-Dumont models themselves are cosmetic variations of the existing model, with the most unusual being the yellow gold version with a dial of obsidian, which is volanic glass.

Initial thoughts

The new Santos-Dumont pairs the familiar square watch with an appropriately retro mesh-link bracelet that fits the design perfectly. Like the Les Opus trio, this Santos-Dumont trio isn’t imaginative or novel, but it is executed well and has tactile appeal.

Both the clasp and flush-fit end links that continue the link pattern are a pleasing touch. In some ways the bracelet is perhaps more fitting for the model given its history as an aviator’s watch, although the Santos-Dumont now is very much a dress watch in the modern sense of the term.

The commercial success of 2023’s Tank Normale with a bracelet probably helped convince Cartier that such bracelets are a winner, despite the substantial cost of a precious metal bracelet today. That said, the new Santos-Dumont on a bracelet is pricey but not outrageously so. It starts at €44,400 in yellow gold and rises to €59,000 in platinum, which is reasonable in the context of today’s market for both luxury watches and precious metals.

The textured obsidian dial

A historical sports watch

The origins of the Santos are now well known: pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont asked Louis Cartier for a timekeeper that he could wear while piloting a plane, and so the eponymous wristwatch was born. Over its century of existence the Santos has evolved into  a multitude of variations, but the Santos-Dumont is arguably the version closest to the original.

While larger and sportier versions of the Santos have long had matching bracelets, the Santos-Dumont last included a bracelet decades ago. The new trio all share the same bracelet and case in “LM” size, short for “large model”.

Both the base model in yellow gold and platinum version have the same silvered dial with radial brushing that is identical to that on the earlier versions of the model, which were available only on a strap.

The upgraded yellow gold model, however, has a dial in obsidian, glass that forms when a volcanic lava cools. According to Cartier, the dark brown obsidian employed here is from Mexico, and it is polished to a disc that is just 0.3 mm high, then affixed to the brass dial base.

All three versions share the same movement, the cal. 430 MC. It’s a rebadged Piaget cal. 430P, a slim, manual-wind movement that is the ultra-thin workhorse used extensively by both Piaget and Cartier. Now almost 30 years old, the cal. 430P is a little dated – the power reserve is under 40 hours – but still a compact and reliable movement.

The solid case back bears Alberto Santos-Dumont’s initials “S=D”

Key facts and price

Cartier Santos-Dumont LM with bracelet 
Ref. CRWGSA0122 (yellow gold)
Ref. CRWGSA0123 (yellow gold with obsidian dial)
Ref. CRWGSA0124 (platinum)

Diameter: 43.5 mm by 31.4 mm
Height: 7.3 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 430 MC
Features: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet in gold or platinum

Limited edition: No
Availability:
Price: Yellow gold and obsidian €46,700; yellow gold €44,400; and platinum €59,000

For more, visit Cartier.com.

Cartier’s crowd favourite Privé line is now 10 years old and the jeweller is returning to its greatest hits for the occasion with two offerings, the first being the flagship Cartier Privé Les Opus. “Opus” is a trio of watches, all in platinum, each being of the most desirable models in the Privé collection – Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette.

Both the Tank Normale and Tortue Monopoussoir are variants of earlier models, retaining the same case and movement as before, but now with silvered dials featuring red markings. The Crash skeleton, on the other hand, is a new model powered by a new calibre, the 1967 MC, a hand-wind movement with hand hammered bridges.

The Crash skeleton is limited to 150 pieces, while the other two models are regular production

The second anniversary trio is Cartier Privé La Collection, yet another trio of greatest hits, but in yellow gold and not limited edition, which we’ll detail in another story.

Cartier Privé La Collection made up of the Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, and Cloche

Initial thoughts

It is now a given that Cartier will mine its rich archive for new launches and Les Opus is exactly that. Given the strength of Cartier’s iconic designs, all three watches in the collection are appealing, with the Crash being a little more novel than its siblings in the line-up thanks to its skeleton movement. None of the three watches win any awards for imagination or innovation, but that is arguably besides the point for Cartier watches today.

The Tortue Monopoussoir adopts the design found on the prior generation model, but now in silver and red. The Tank Normale has the same palette, which was historically employed by Cartier on platinum watches in the late 20th century. It is a good look and one that Cartier hasn’t used too often recently, making these two stand out.

While both the Tortue and Tank are cosmetic variants of earlier models, the Crash is entirely new, with the cal. 1967 MC inside being a fresh development created for this watch. No doubt it borrows from other Cartier in-house movements, but the curved, hammered bridges are an interesting departure from the usual style. In the usual style, however, the cal. 1967 MC uses an Etachron-type regulator index that doesn’t feel right for a watch of this price.

Platinum and red

The only limited edition in the trio is the Crash Squelette. A little larger than the current Crash, this is distinct from the first Crash skeleton launched over a decade ago. It’s powered by the cal. 1967 MC, a newly developed calibre named after the year the Crash was created by Cartier’s London outpost. Cartier likely took the moving parts of another of its in-house calibres and then rearranged them to fit inside the asymmetric Cartier, which explains the unusual angle of the crown.

The movement has slightly curved bridges to accommodate the form of the watch case. As is tradition with Cartier’s skeleton movements, the curved base plate has been open worked to form numerals, which are spread out from five to 12 o’clock. The rest of the bridges are hammered by hand to create a dimpled motif, a technique that requires two hours of work per movement.

Notably, this accompanied by an asymmetric pin buckle, instead of the “crashed” folding buckle that was historically paired with the Crash. While a pin buckle usually fits better in terms of wearability – the traditional Cartier clasp requires a tailored strap for a perfect fit – the folding clasp is elegant and appropriate given the near-€100,000 price.

The remaining pair in Les Opus are regular production, albeit in small(ish) quantities – this might disappoint those who bought the earlier iterations of the same models that were limited editions.

The first is a Tank Normale in platinum with a matching bracelet. It’s essentially identical to the limited edition from 2023, except here the dial is a silvered “opaline” finish with red markings and blued steel sword hands for a look that is classic Cartier.

Similarly dressed is the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, which is also cased in platinum. This harks back to the first-generation Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph of 1998 with its oversized Roman “XII”. While that model had the dial markings in blue, this has a silvered dial with red markings. As with the 1998 model, the hour markers are tiny spheres, save for the “XII”.

This is otherwise identical to the 2024 model, and contains the cal. 1928 MC, a proprietary hand-winding movement developed by Cartier with the help of specialist Le Cercle des Horlogers.

The cal. 1928 MC in the yellow gold version of the watch

Key facts and price

Cartier Privé Les Opus Crash Squelette
Ref. CRWHCH0012

Diameter: 45.34 mm by 25.18 mm
Height: 12.97 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 1967 MC
Features: Hours, minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve:

Strap: Alligator strap with platinum pin buckle

Limited edition: 150 pieces
Availability:
Price: €97,000 before taxes

Cartier Privé Les Opus Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir
Ref. CRWHTO0012

Diameter: 43.7 mm by 34.8 mm
Height: 10.2 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 1928 MC
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 44 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with platinum pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability:
Price: €53,000 before taxes

Cartier Privé Les Opus Tank Normale
Ref. CRWHTA0031

Diameter: 32.6 mm by 25.7 mm
Height: 6.85 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not applicable

Movement: Cal. 070
Features: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Matching platinum bracelet with white gold clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability:
Price: €58,000 before taxes

For more, visit Cartier.com.

After introducing the G.F.J. Caliber 135 last year, Zenith has expanded the line with two new models and created a new collection in the process. Following closely in the footsteps of the platinum debut model, the new additions are dressed in 18k yellow gold and tantalum, with richly furnished natural stone dials.

The cal. 135 returns — now finished in a more traditional manner — boasting impressive performance that does justice to the movement’s enviable competition record.

Initial thoughts

The return of the legendary cal. 135 was something I always hoped I’d see, but never thought I would. But in a moment akin to Omega’s recreation of the famed cal. 321 chronograph, Zenith brought back one of the most successful observatory calibres in history.

The movement made its return last year in grand style to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, well built but priced well above Zenith’s typical domain.

The style was also an acquired taste, with a hand-guilloche chapter ring, with a matching pattern machined into the movement bridges. The dial treatment was one thing, but the finishing of the movement arguably dulled what could have been an ascendant moment.

For 2026, two new dial configurations — bloodstone and onyx — join what can now be called an official collection, both equally as luxe as the model’s blue debut.

Fortunately, when it comes to the cal. 135, Zenith left the brick-style bridge finishing behind, opting for more ordinary — but more attractive — Geneva stripes in their stead.

Bloodstone and onyx

The new G.F.J. models continue the anniversary edition’s theme of combining a mother-of-pearl small seconds sub-dial with a natural stone dial centre. Zenith’s brand colour is blue, which explains the choice to launch in lapis lazuli last year.

The new configurations in 18k yellow gold and tantalum feature dials made from speckled green bloodstone and glossy black onyx, respectively. The former option is available on a solid 18k yellow gold bracelet, while the latter features baguette diamond hour marks.

In either case, the colour-matched brick-style guilloche chapter ring returns. It all adds up to an expensive bill of materials. While it’s true that stone dials can now be had quite cheaply, that can’t be said for multi-piece dials like this that feature numerous decorative techniques and noble materials.

Regardless of case material and dial colour, the 39.15 mm case seems like the sweet spot, creating space for a large and legible sub-seconds scale that doesn’t encroach too much on the chapter ring.

As before the case is water resistant to 50 m, and feels reassuringly robust.

Traditional finishing

Arguably the biggest news is the return to traditional Cote de Geneve for the movement bridges. The cal. 135 already has a lot going for it, and benefits from the simpler treatment.

Zenith set a high bar for itself in terms of execution, and aimed for an equally ambitious price. Perhaps for this reason, the movement is finished to a much higher standard than mainline Zenith calibres.

The movement is indeed finished to haute horlogerie standards in most areas, complete with hand-polished anglage and a few inner angles on the bridges. The selective perlage on the dial side of the mainplate is curious, since the entire plate is concealed by the dial.

The choice to decorate only the centre portion might hint at future open-dial configurations, though there may well be a functional reason for this decision.

Regardless of finishing, the cal. 135 is not a typical time-only movement, and punches above its weight in terms of architecture and performance.

One of the last great round observatory movements, the cal. 135 dominated the Neuchâtel Observatory in the early 1950s. The secret to the movement’s success lies in its massive balance wheel, made possible thanks to an unusual gear train layout.

The recreation of the cal. 135 capture the important details while upgrading a few things to suit contemporary expectations. The two key changes relate to the power reserve, which is now much longer, and the balance staff, which is now shock protected.

The cal. 135, seen here in last year’s 160th anniversary edition.

Zenith rightly chose to emphasise the high-performance nature of the cal. 135 by carefully adjusting each to movement to run within +/- 2 seconds per day. This is the kind of performance typically associated with high-tech silicon hairspring-equipped movements from rivals like Omega and Rolex.

But the cal. 135 is an antique platform made using traditional materials, meaning it requires a more experienced hand to bring out its best.

Key facts and price

Zenith G.F.J. Caliber 135
Ref. 30.1865.0135/56.C216 (bloodstone/yellow gold)
Ref. 98.1865.0135/21.C205 (onyx/tantalum)

Diameter: 39.15 mm
Height: 10.5 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold or tantalum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 135
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with pin buckle, yellow gold bracelet available at additional cost.

Limited edition: 161 pieces in 18k yellow gold, 20 pieces in tantalum.
Availability: At Zenith boutiques and authorised dealers.
Price: Upon request

For more, visit Zenith-watches.com

Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively — the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin.

While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts — namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential.

Initial thoughts

The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity.

The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative.

The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many modern movements. But the ultra-thin calibre’s tedious construction, slow beat rate, short power reserve, and lack of a quick-set date have finally caught up with it.

While not the most classically beautiful movement, lacking the elegant bridges of the Genevan tradition, VC’s new cal. 2550 boasts an impressive spec sheet, is well decorated, and should prove to be a promising platform for a future 222 or Overseas perpetual calendar.

Visually, the watch breaks little new ground, featuring the once-rare but ever-popular salmon and platinum colourway. This configuration is far from novel, even for VC, but is appealing and versatile.

That versatility should make it appealing to both enthusiasts and casual collectors alike — it’s a luxe but low-key watch that someone could wear five days a week, year after year. And now, thanks to the extended power reserve of the new calibre, the watch will still be running on Monday morning.

A watch only Vacheron Constantin could make

The Overseas case is built and finished to the standards of its price, but isn’t as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet (AP) and Patek Philippe. While the Royal Oak and Nautilus designs are now inseparable from the identities of their respective makers, this has more to do with familiarity than anything else.

In contrast, the Overseas is a watch that only VC could make, featuring the brand’s Maltese cross motif repeated cleverly throughout its case and bracelet. The bezel shape, for example, is a stylised Maltese cross of sorts, and the design is actually functional — used to screw the bezel down — rather than being pressed into place as on most watches.

The solidly built bracelet perhaps deserves more praise than the case. While it is common knowledge that sharp inner corners are challenging to machine and finish when found on movement bridges, makers rarely extend such exacting standards to external components subject to greater wear — yet the high-polished interior creases of the Overseas bracelet do exactly that, continuing the Maltese cross pattern from the bezel to the clasp.

Richemont is among the industry leaders in bracelet technology, as demonstrated by the Overseas which offers a toolless comfort extension built into the clasp and individually removable, screw-fixed links. A defining feature of the current generation of Overseas models is the quick-release mechanism, allowing for quick strap changes without the risk of marring the case with spring bar tools.

Naturally, besides the platinum bracelet, the watch comes with salmon-coloured rubber and leather straps which share an interchangeable deployant clasp.

The case is platinum, a tedious material to work with, but one that has become significantly more viable because of rising gold prices. Indeed, the ref. 2000V was released in 18k white gold, so the choice to launch in platinum may be a sign of the times.

Historically, platinum 950 was alloyed with iridium, though today most brands use ruthenium, which is much less expensive, and yields superior properties. But according to VC, this is no ordinary platinum watch. In fact, it is 2.7 times harder than common platinum 950 alloys thanks to its revised composition that replaces ruthenium with copper and gallium. I also suspect there’s a heat-treatment process involved, though the brand hasn’t yet provided technical details or a specific Vickers hardness.

This hard-wearing case contributes to the overall versatility of the ref. 2500V. And despite the sleek dimensions of the 7.35 mm case it still manages a 50 m water resistance rating, and features an antimagnetic ring around the movement.

The year of the micro-rotor?

Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet were the last bulwarks of fine watchmaking at scale before the industry’s post-quartz pivot to luxury in the 1980s. As an aside, it’s for this reason that they are often called the ‘holy trinity’ and it’s also why that club is not accepting new members.

Vacheron Constantin’s cal. 1120 is derived from the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920 platform, which was the thinnest automatic movement of its era.

In the late 1960s, this triumvirate collaborated on the development of an ultra-flat self-winding movement to power their watches. Jeager-LeCoultre did a lot of the work and supplied its illustrious customers with an ebauche it called the cal. 920. Patek Philippe was least reliant on this platform and the first to give it up, but the movement stayed in the AP and VC catalogues for decades, and still powers select VC perpetual calendars.

The new cal. 2550 that supplants it is extremely slim at just 2.4 mm thick, undercutting Patek Philippe’s cal. 240, which is nominally 2.4 mm thick – hence the ‘240’ designation — but is actually 2.53 mm with the rotor installed, which stands proud of the plates.

The cal. 2550 also features a free-sprung balance — a more refined and isochronous solution compared to the curb-pin regulators seen in the brand’s other contemporary mainline calibres.

Despite its low profile, the new movement manages to pack bi-directional automatic winding, support for a natural six o’clock seconds hand, and an 80-hour power reserve. It does all of this while meeting the Geneva Seal’s accuracy requirements.

There’s been a lot of attention on chronometry standards of late, so it’s worth acknowledging that the performance standards specified by the Poinçon de Genève are rather lax compared to the internal protocols of brands like Rolex and Omega. Of course, comparing the cal. 2550 to an industrial chronometer movement like the cal. 7135 found in the Rolex Land-Dweller is like comparing a grand tourer to a Formula 1 car.

But unlike the more chronometrically demanding Master Chronometer and Superlative Chronometer standards, the Geneva Seal ensures the movement is built to the exacting aesthetic and technical benchmarks of traditional Genevan fine watchmaking — guaranteeing thorough finishing and honest construction in even the smallest details.

Key Facts and Price

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin
Ref. 2500V / 210P–H028

Diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 7.35 mm
Material: Platinum 950
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2550
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet and additional strap in rubber and leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: Yes, 255 pieces
Availability: Exclusive to Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: On request.

For more, visit vacheronconstantin.com.