The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is the latest creation from Louis Vuitton to feature jacquemart, or mechanical animations. Like the Tambour Opera before it, the Arty Automata features a complex, multi-layer dial with multiple mechanisms that whir into motion at the press of a button, including spinning hearts and a swivelling eyeball. But this also incorporates a flying tourbillon at six, while the dial itself is grand feu enamel – and tiny bird feathers for the eyelashes.

Initial thoughts

The flamboyant, psychedelic Arty Automata is definitely not for everyone, but the mechanical and artisanal credentials of the watch are impressive (save for one detail, more on that later). To start with, the Arty Automata is a more manageable 42 mm by 13.6 mm, compared to earlier automata models that were several millimetres larger.

Combined with the form of the new Tambour Taiko case, this makes the Art Automata more wearable than its predecessors. More than ergonomics, the scaled down case also underlines the movement development prowess of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT).

The attention to detail in terms of the movement also shows in its aesthetics: the calibre adopts the house style of LFT with its relief bridges, but adopted to the “Arty” aesthetic with stars, clouds, and a lacquered rotor. That said, the Etachron-type regulator index for the balance is definitely out of place in a watch of this price.

The watch also illustrates the capabilities of the metiers d’art workshop in LFT. Despite being relatively new, the workshop has advanced rapidly, and the complex “Arty” dial – decorated with multiple enamel techniques – is proof of that.

Arty art

The Arty Automata features a dial with seven animations, including the stars, heart, eyeball, and cloud. This kick into gear when the pusher at eight o’clock is depressed. Time, in contrast, is relegated to a small register at three o’clock. The hour and minute hands can get lost in the riot of colours on the dial, which is probably the point.

The dial itself is made up of 20 parts, all enamelled by hand with techniques including champleve and miniature painting. A total of 23 shades of enamel were employed for the dial, which requires over 250 hours of work by an enameller.

Echoing the palette of the dial is a bezel set with 48 baguette cut coloured sapphires and rubies. While subtle is hardly appropriate for this watch, the gem setting is relatively discreet as the stones are arranged on the vertical periphery of the bezel, as is convention for the Tambour Taiko. The rest of the case is typical Taiko, with the drum-shaped case middle featuring lugs with concave flanks.

The LFT AU05.01 is similar to LFT’s past automata movements in some ways, but is a distinct calibre, most notably with the addition of automatic winding and a flying tourbillon.

The flying tourbillon appears to have a lightweight construction, possibly including the use of titanium parts, an ideal approach for an energy-intensive movement like this while still maintaining a 65-hour power reserve. But as mentioned earlier, the rotating block-type regulator for the hairspring is not the most sophisticated option, especially since LFT’s other in-house calibres do so well in this regard.

Echoing the decoration of the dial, the 18k white gold rotor features a relief cloud motif in colour lacquer. Though not quite as challenging as enamel, the lacquer is hand painted and baked in an oven to set. The basis for lacquer instead of enamel is practical: the rotor requires perfect geometry and flatness, which might be compromised when firing enamel in an oven as that can result in slight warping.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Arty Automata
Ref.W9WG71

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: 18k white gold, bezel set with rubies and sapphires
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LFT AU05.01
Functions: Hours, minutes, automata with seven animations, and flying tourbillon regulator
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Calfskin

Limited edition: No but very limited production 
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €490,000 including VAT

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.

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