Like its sister brand Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta recently unveiled a model that is entirely new, rather than one based on the brand’s historical designs. The Geneva time-only is a two-hand watch with a minimalist yet distinctive design that manages to capture the spirit of 1980s and 1990s Gérald Genta without being a remake.

The cushion-shaped case was debuted last year with a six-figure minute repeater, but now the brand has now applied the design to something more affordable, relatively speaking. Inside is a Zenith Elite automatic that’s been dressed up surprisingly well, above and beyond the usual presentation of the calibre.

Initial thoughts

The revived Gerald Genta’s debut model, the Oursin, was a reissue of sorts. The Geneva, on the other hand, is a more original creation that’s no doubt inspired by the typical Genta aesthetic, but not a like-for-like remake. It’s a testament to the design that the Geneva could pass for a 1990s Gerald Genta watch even though it is not.

The Geneva almost wears like a 1990s watch as well. It’s compact by today’s standards, though these proportions would have been extra-large 30 years ago. Its slimness and narrow lugs give this a formal feel, though the colours are more vivid than usual for a dress watch.

The dial is definitely more 21st century than the case, especially with the grained finish, but the gradient colour is evocative of the 1970s and suits the style of the watch. I imagine a great many more colours can be successfully applied to this dial and case.

The movement inside is Zenith Elite that’s ordinarily found inside mid-range watches. Fortunately it’s been reworked with an upscale finish that suits the watch. And it’s also a big plus that the Elite is a fine calibre to begin with, even though it’s now over 30 years old.

The Geneva time-only costs CHF25,000. It costs less than a time-only Patrimony from Vacheron Constantin, for example, but more than the equivalent Master from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Geneva is certainly a step up from the Master, and not quite on par with the Patrimony, so the price is arguably fair, but it is in something of a no-man’s land.

If the Geneva had a high-end, in-house movement, it could be priced higher and still be decent value. Paradoxically, the skeleton watch launched by its sister company, Daniel Roth, at the same time costs more than three times as much, but is arguably stronger value.

“Neither round nor square”

The Geneva’s creator, Matthieu Hegi of La Fabrique du Temps, describes it as “[a design] that capture[s] the intuitive, instinctive genius and artistry of Mr. Genta”. He succeeded, because the case looks exactly like something that might have emerged from Gérald Genta of the 1980s and 1990s.

The cushion-shaped case is spot-on in terms of the historical Genta “feel”, with the lugs that were a favourite of the late Genta reinforcing the impression.

The size also feels retro at a compact 38 mm, though it’s sized well for a dress watch by today’s standards. It is also thin at just over 8 mm high, though the stepped bezel gives it visual heft.

The dial, however, is clearly a more recent creation, though it complements the case design well. The dial has a granular texture (that’s presumably stamped) treated with a gradient finish that darkens towards the edges.

Though simple, the dial is executed well, as is the case for Gerald Genta and its sister company Daniel Roth. The finish on the dial is tidy, while the hands and markers are all solid gold.

The rose gold case gets a marrone dial, while the white gold case is matched with grafite. Both are appealing, but the white gold has a little bit more charm with its rose gold indices and hands that have just the right amount of contrast.

Elite mechanics

The Geneva is powered by the Zenith Elite, a movement that’s now over 30 years old but still respectable for its slimness and thoughtful construction. While the movement is usually found in less expensive watches, here it is arguably fits the part well.

This version of the Elite has been dressed up, given it a more refined appearance than usual since it is typically found in more affordable watches. In fact, it is looks surprisingly good for an Elite; I don’t recall another instance of the movement presented in this way.

The bridges have wide, pronounced bevels, while the base plate is finished with spiral graining. The decor is still industrial, but well done and appropriate for this segment.

But more than aesthetics, the Elite does well in terms of construction. Though it was conceived as a mid-range movement in 1994, it has many hallmarks that would today make it a mid-to-upper end calibre. And its specs remain respectable, with a high-beat, 4 Hz balance and 50-hour power reserve, admirable given the thinness of the movement.

Key facts and price

Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only
Ref. ECFF01A1 (white gold, grey dial)
Ref. ECFD01A1 (rose gold, brown dial)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 8.15 mm
Material: 18k rose or white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: GG-005P (Zenith Elite)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,000 beats per hours (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Directly from Gérald Genta and authorised retailers
Price: CHF25,000 before taxes

For more information, visit geraldgenta.com.