Ahead of its much anticipated Watches & Wonders debut, Audemars Piguet has reached deep into its archives for what in past years would have fallen into the [Re]Master collection. The Neo Frame Jumping Hour takes inspiration from a similar guichet model from 1929, and comes at a time of renewed interest in the format.

Initial thoughts

Each time an established brand launches a completely new collection, the public response can be either positive (think Rolex Land-Dweller) or underwhelming. Audemars Piguet has come face-to-face with this reality in the past with the Code 11.59, which was bold but not well received initially (though much of the early criticism can be chalked up to cynicism).

That experience hasn’t stopped the brand from continuing to diversify its portfolio, and the latest effort capitalises on the growing interest in guichet watches. In doing so, Audemars Piguet reimagines an obscure piece from its own past, adding strong touches of modern design to create something with a more distinctive visual identity than one might expect from a simple jumping hours watch.

At first sight, the sleek profile painted by the Neo Frame’s case looks much like a sports smart band — albeit much shinier. Specifically, the way the shiny black watch face connects with the strap is suggestive of certain activity trackers on the market.

Beyond the deceiving initial look, the Neo Frame case is clearly the result of a strong design effort. The angular piece has soft corners and tapered, short lugs with deep striations — a nod to Art Deco and the lavish 1920s aesthetic.

However, the watch face itself is the very opposite of excess, featuring only a discreet brand signature (that disappears at most angles) and apertures for the dragging minutes and jumping hours. The compact 32.6 mm by 34 mm footprint and ergonomic slope of the lugs give the New Frame all-day wearing comfort.

All in all, the Neo Frame is a strong first effort in what might evolve into a key pillar of the brand in the future. It’s arguably one of the most appealing watches of its kind and strengthens Audemars Piguet’s bench of new models.

Though the Neo Frame nomenclature might take a while to enter the vernacular, the guichet design feels like it’s coming to market at the right time.

Less is more

The Neo Frame’s glossy presentation is thanks to its shiny upper surface, achieved by PVD-coating a sapphire plate on the underside. This attractive but somewhat pretentious construction, which includes a metalised sapphire crystal screwed into the case, only allows for a meagre 20m of water resistance, but it is nonetheless a central, defining element of the design.

Interestingly, the sapphire crystal is not framed at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions, adding a futuristic edge-to-edge look to an otherwise classic design. The case hugs the crystal on each side with slender gadroon-like lines running from lug to lug. The specific design resembles historic guichet Audemars Piguet watches and is also a nod to the lavishness of the Art Deco period.

There are only two apertures breaking the black surface — a deep, faceted square frame for the hours window and a semi-circular opening that reveals the minutes disc. The movement offers true jumping hours functionality, as opposed to a dragging hours, which improves legibility and helps the Neo Frame live up to Audemars Piguet’s esteemed reputation.

Interestingly, the Neo Frame does not strap to the wrist with normal lugs. Instead, the black textured calfskin leather strap, which features a rubber-like surface texture, extends over the lugs and connects with the case body, contributing to the modernist impression.

Vintage looks, modern engine

The jumping hours functionality is powered by Audemars Piguet’s calibre 7122. Derived from the thin automatic cal. 7121 inside the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202, the new movement replaces traditional hands with a rolling minutes display and the headline jumping hours mechanism, which features a patented shock resistance system.

In most jumping hours complications, the hours disc is usually indexed and kept in place by a blade spring. The spring needs to be both strong enough to ensure the disc is indexed securely but also sufficiently compliant so that the changeover is crisp and reasonably energy efficient. A spring that is too compliant (compliance being the numerical inverse of stiffness) is naturally prone to be upset by well-timed shocks, so it is nice to see Audemars Piguet actively improving an already mature mechanism.

The hours disc is made from titanium, while the rolling minutes disc is made from aluminum. These decision makes sense since the running minutes disc is a continuous load on the movement, so lightness is of the essence. For the isolated jumping disc, Audemars Piguet deemed material strength more important than maximum lightness, hence the choice of still-lightweight titanium alloy.

Otherwise, the cal. 7122 shares the same core architecture with the performant and elegant cal. 7121. Beyond the clean finishing and tidy looks, the movement has some interesting and unorthodox features. For one thing, the barrel is secured by a gold bridge, as is the free-sprung aerodynamic balance with inset inertia blocks.

There are also ruby liners to ensure the stability of the barrel click wheel, and the flat hairspring is pinned to its own finger bridge. The slim movement runs for 52 hours at a modern 4 Hz pace, suggesting that few concessions were made in terms of chronometry.

Key specs and price

Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour
Ref. 15245OR.OO.D206VE.01

Size: 32.6 x 34 mm
Height: 8.8 mm
Material: 18K pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: Calibre 7122
Features: Jump hours, minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 52 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather textured strap with matching pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Directly from Audemars Piguet
Price: CHF56,300 excluding taxes

For more, visit audemarspiguet.com.

Audemars Piguet celebrated 150 years of existence in 2025, but its celebrations have continued into the new year with the 150 Heritage Pocket Watch. While many large ultra-complicated pocket watches are exercises in nostalgia, the 150 Heritage is a fully modern piece of micro-mechanical engineering with never-before-seen functionality.

Initial thoughts

A complicated pocket watch with a simple name, the 150 Heritage is built around the calibre 1150, a newly developed hand-wound movement that adapts the architecture of the ambitious calibre 1000 developed for the Code 11.59 Universelle, and as such it includes past RD-series innovations.

Few brands can match Audemars Piguet’s track record of producing Grand Complication pocket watches, but the 150 Heritage surprises by adapting a calibre originally intended for the wrist. That said, the differences between the Universelle and the 150 Heritage are quite significant, thanks to an intriguing new feature: a hinged mechanical calculator, isolated from the movement.

The intricate system is housed inside the case back and allows the user to effortlessly cycle through dates across any year to be able to read a surprising number of culturally-relevant dates based on lunar, solar and lunisolar cycles. 

The device feels a bit like a time machine, as the lucky owner can go into the past or look into the future and find out the exact dates of Catholic Easter, Ramadan, Equinoxes and many others, along with the specific arrangement of days and weeks during any given year.

The visual presentation and slate of complications calls to mind the Code 11.59 Universelle thanks to the arrangement of the chronograph sub-dials, calendar apertures, and the large flying tourbillon, a feature born for the pocket watch format. That said, the cal. 1150 does away with the automatic winding works, and has been subtly tweaked to better fit the larger case format. 

Having a larger size to work with, the artisans of Audemars Piguet also dressed the platinum case with elaborate ornamental engravings and a grand feu enamel dial in a striking blue.

While the case is larger than is typical for a wristwatch, it’s still quite small due to its technical origins. Giulio Papi conceived the 150 Heritage as a pocket watch that would actually fit in the pocket, as opposed to the paths taken by Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, which opted to make massive hamburger-sized grand complication pocket watches.

Of course, a seven-figure watch like the 150 Heritage will most likely be exhibited in a secure environment, but it’s nice to know it actually can fit in one’s pocket. It’s also surprisingly intuitive and user-friendly for something as whimsical and luxurious as a two-piece limited edition anniversary pocket watch.

Complications galore

The complication list of the 150 Heritage reads much like a catalogue of the most demanding horological systems: grande and petite sonnerie and minute repeater with Supersonnerie acoustics, a split-seconds flyback chronograph, flying tourbillon, and a semi-Gregorian perpetual calendar capable of accounting for centennial leap-year exceptions.

In spite of all these indications, the design doesn’t feel cluttered and retains a high degree of legibility. The dial layout is virtually identical to that of the Code 11.59 Universelle, with its large European-style date format and double-digit year indicator. The large balance inside the flying tourbillon cage beats at 3 Hz, is free-sprung and comes mounted on a Breguet overcoil hairspring.

The wristwatch format of the cal. 1000 architecture means the chronograph pushers and crown sit on the right-hand side of the case relative to the vertical orientation the dial — making for an unusual handheld operation of the chronograph.

Usually pocket chronographs have the crown at the 12 o’clock position and the pushers flanking it, making the actuation more natural to the hand. This is one of a few areas where the wristwatch origin makes itself known.

Interestingly, the chronograph pushers also serve in correcting the indications on the dial — the rotatable pusher at four o’clock sets the month indicator, and the pusher co-axial with the crown aids with setting and winding the watch. Impressively, the date can be set backwards and forwards, which is quite rare for perpetual calendars. 

The line between case and movement was intentionally blurred making the case itself feel mechanical and interactive. For example, the day of the week and moon phase are set using broad horizontal pushers on the case back side. 

Métiers d’art crafts

The 50 mm platinum case is entirely hand engraved, a demanding and rare craft typically reserved for exceptional pieces. The functional elements remain grouped along a limited section of the case flank, opening up the remaining surface as a canvas for the engraver.

The case band reimagines scenes from the manufacture’s history, including portraits of its founders and a dedicated anniversary emblem. As is usually the case with hand engraving, the metal gains an organic feel that isn’t found with other decorating techniques. 

The main dial is executed from an 18k white gold base and is finished with translucent blue grand feu enamel. Applied Roman numerals, engraved by hand, sit above a backdrop of starry trails, a discreet and appealing motif that continues onto the Universal Calendar system at the back.

Completing the ensemble is a hand-made platinum chain, produced using traditional techniques. This is notable since chain-making skills have become increasingly scarce and mostly forgotten as pocket watches have fallen out of favour.

The Universal Calendar

Without question, the most original element of the 150 Heritage is found not on the dial, but is fitted inside the hinged case back. The Universal Calendar is entirely independent of the main movement and works much like a mechanical computer.

Unlike the limited functionality of a traditional Gregorian perpetual calendar format, the Universal Calendar is conceived as a broader reflection of how human societies and cultures have measured time. Using the Gregorian system as a reference point, the device overlays solar, lunar and lunisolar cycles on a single large dial, making for a panorama of temporal information.

The display incorporates 18 indications. Those include years, leap years, months, dates, weeks, moon phases, solstices and equinoxes, as well as nine cultural and religious celebrations drawn from different traditions. 

Exposed mechanics inside the Universal Calendar. The array of levers and gears rivals the complexity of Calibre 1150 itself.

These include solar-based celebrations such as Christmas and Saint John’s Day, lunar-abiding events like the beginning of Ramadan, and lunisolar events such as, Catholic Easter, Chinese New Year, Diwali, Rosh Hashanah and Vesak. The Universal Calendar links each celebration directly to the astronomical phenomenon that defines it. 

By using a rotary selector on the inside of the hinged case back, the user can cycle through years, instantly gaining an overview of the important dates and celebrations. Impressively, the mechanism is programmed for a wide range of dates from 1900 to 2099.

Since the Universal Calendar is not linked in any way to the movement, it doesn’t depend on the power reserve and won’t automatically advance like a normal calendar. Instead, the user can rely on the perpetual calendar on the main dial for the live date, while consulting the mechanical computer on the back to know when certain events and holidays will take place for a given year.

Mechanically programming each of these cycles and events accurately is one of the most important feats of the 150 Heritage. While all these celebrations and religiously-relevant dates are derived from the same natural cycles of Sun and Moon, the calculation rules and rigours vastly differ from culture to culture. Having all these display so naturally on a single device is nothing short of extraordinary.

Key specs and price

Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage Pocket Watch
Ref. 75150PT.OO.01

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 23.4 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Presumably dust resistant

Movement: Calibre 1150
Features: Hours, minutes, split-seconds flyback chronograph, flying tourbillon, Grande Complication and Universal Calendar
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 60 hours

Fixture: Platinum handmade chain, 40 cm in length

Limited edition: 2 one-of-a-kind pieces
Availability: Directly from Audemars Piguet
Price: On request