Appointed Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux (GP) in early 2025, Marc Michel-Amadry has over two decades of leadership experience spanning both the auction world and fine watchmaking.

A former head of Sotheby’s Switzerland and Chief Commercial Officer of IWC, he steps into the role at a pivotal moment for GP, which has spent the past three years refining its identity as an independent brand, alongside its sister brand Ulysse Nardin in the Sowind Group.

I sat down with Mr Michel-Amadry not long after he took office to discuss what he has in store. Our conversation touched on the enduring relevance of the Laureato, the renewed importance of in-house innovation, and his plans to restore GP to its former glory.

The interview was edited for length and clarity.

SJX: You’ve covered a wide range of the industry, having worked with niche brands, major brands, and big groups. Tell us how you ended up at GP.

MMA: People often tell me I don’t have a typical career path. Usually, you start somewhere and stay within the same group. But for me, every step has to have a purpose. I’ve always wanted to work for a brand that means something.

By coincidence, I was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds — the home of GP. It’s a brand I’ve always followed. I met Luigi Macaluso early in my career and was struck by the sophistication and beauty of the brand. Beyond its know-how and history, GP has always expressed its own design because everything is in-house.

Luigi “Gino” Macaluso, former owner of Girard-Perregaux

It’s also the only brand I’ve ever bought for myself, while working for another watchmaker. When I turned 40, I bought the WW.TC chronograph because I found it absolutely stunning — the dial, the colours, the proportions were all perfectly balanced.

You could see the eye of Gino Macaluso in that watch. So when the opportunity came up to join GP, it felt natural. Patrick and I have known each other for some time, and when we started talking in mid-2024, it immediately felt right.

I’ve now been with the brand for five months. I thought I knew GP well, but I’ve discovered a depth of heritage, innovation, and artistry that’s mind-blowing. Between the late 18th century and the 1980s, the brand stood shoulder to shoulder with Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron, and Patek. GP belongs in that circle — a true haute horlogerie manufacture by nature, with the innovations that go along with that.

So for me, Patrick and the whole team, the idea is really to make sure that GP finds its right place; not being big, but being right and doing something that connoisseurs will appreciate.

SJX: Let’s talk about the manufacture. My understanding is that GP and Ulysse Nardin now share some production facilities. How does that work in practice?

MMA: There are elements of synergies for sure, because we have exceptionally talented watchmakers and engineers under one roof. But we also have our own atelier dedicated to grand complications for GP. Some departments are shared, but others are exclusive to each brand. The key is to express each brand’s DNA correctly.

SJX: You’re joining the brand at what many consider a challenging time for the industry. How does that shape your approach?

MMA: There’s a famous quote, I think it’s from The Three Musketeers: “It’s even more beautiful when it’s difficult.” The fact that GP isn’t as renowned as it deserves to be – that’s an anomaly. Our job is to correct it. I like being the underdog. We have agility, we’re independent, and we have real talent. That combination gives us strength.

SJX: Many know GP today for the Laureato. What else should it be recognised for?

MMA: Beyond the Laureato, I would say there are two other key pillars. First and foremost is the Three Bridges, which will celebrate 160th anniversary in 2027.

The second pillar is the pursuit of precision, not only with quartz but also the Gyromatic, the first high frequency 5 Hz movement, in 1966 three years before the El Primero.

On the first point, the Three Bridges is certainly one of, if not the first demonstration of design intention in movement architecture, we have a lot of exciting initiatives in store for the anniversary in two years.

And then there’s the fact that GP was the first Swiss brand to really embrace the quartz revolution, to the point that in 1971 GP defined the official frequency standard for the entire industry. I think most people would be surprised to learn that in 1977, 74% of all COSC certifications were for GP watches.

And then you have the Constant Escapement. The first prototype was completed in 2008 and it won the GPHG in 2013. The innovation behind the beauty is part of what defines GP.

Of course, the Laureato turns 50 this year – it’s a legend for us. I already mentioned about the WW.TC; it’s an icon. The annual calendar is an icon. The Equation du Temps is an icon. There are lot of marvelous creations from our past that need to be brought back and celebrated.

SJX: Speaking of the Laureato, tell me about what’s coming next.

MMA: Recently, many of our novelties have focused on dial animations. We also launched the Deep Diver, which pays tribute to historical GP designs. The case, dial, and proportions are all extremely faithful to the originals. It’s a way for us to regularly honour our heritage while keeping it alive.

One aspect I love about the Laureato story is that, unlike most of the famous 1970s luxury-sport watches — the Nautilus, the Royal Oak, the Ingenieur — it was not designed by Gérald Genta, nor powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. Everything was conceived and produced fully in-house at Girard-Perregaux, and I think that’s something that deserves to be better understood.

Now we’re entering a new chapter with a new calibre. The last entirely new calibres were the cal. 3300 in 1998 and the 1800 in 2017, so this is a major milestone. The new movement, Calibre 4800, will form the foundation for many future developments.

The movement measures 25.6 mm in diameter and 4.28 mm thick. It’s a completely rethought architecture that still retains the visual signature of the three bridges — from the barrel bridge to the balance bridge.

It features a silicon escapement, improved torque, a 60-hour power reserve, and ceramic ball bearings for smoother winding. We’ve reduced the component count compared to the cal. 3200 for greater reliability; nothing has been left untouched.

We also paid great attention to proportions, ensuring a generous view of the movement through the case back — even if we eventually create a 36 mm version, the fit will remain perfect.

Of course, we’re celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Laureato — a legend in our collection.

At first glance the Laureato Fifty resembles the familiar Laureato, but in reality it’s been entirely reworked — from its proportions to the finishing of the bracelet and the way the case and bracelet integrate. It feels more solid on the wrist, with none of the rattle of earlier versions.

The clasp is new as well, inspired by the signature GP bridge and fitted with a micro-adjustment system on both sides, allowing the bracelet to expand slightly with changes in temperature or humidity.

SJX: The new movement looks robust. But to my eye, the construction feels very engineering-driven rather than watchmaker-driven.

MMA: That’s fair. But remember, this movement is 100% in-house and exclusive to us, not shared across brands like in the big groups. It’s honest watchmaking from A to Z. And the architecture has a clear symmetry and design intention, which ties back to GP’s history.

Even the master watchmaker at Astrua in Turin, when he saw it, immediately said, “The Three Bridges.” That’s the reaction we hoped for — a modern movement that still carries our signature.