Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Roger Dubuis (RD) revisits its earliest triumph with the Hommage La Placide, a 28-piece limited edition that reimagines the brand’s signature bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. Named for the late Dubuis’ childhood Boy Scouts nickname, the Placide celebrates the classical roots of the Geneva-based manufacture while honouring the design codes that first put RD on the map three decades ago.

Faithful to the originals yet refined in execution, the Placide reaffirms the brand’s ability to merge mechanical ingenuity with expressive design — a reminder that beneath its modern flamboyance lies genuine horological pedigree.

Initial thoughts

Roger Dubuis today is best known for its over-the-top, modern design — skeletonised movements, sharp case lines, and a visual language that often borders on the theatrical. It’s a far cry from the brand’s origins three decades ago, when Dubuis himself was focused on classical watchmaking rooted in Genevan tradition.

Paying tribute to those early creations, the Placide reimagines the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar that first established the horloger genevois 30 years ago.

The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar was first conceived in the late 1980s, when Dubuis collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht to develop a novel perpetual calendar mechanism featuring twin retrograde indicators for Harry Winston. It was only in 1995, upon founding his own brand, that Dubuis introduced the complication under his own name, establishing one of the key signatures of the young manufacture.

Those early models were powered by a Lemania 8810 base and housed in the Sympathie case, then the round Hommage, produced in small runs of 28 pieces per configuration. They combined classical proportions with a distinctive dial layout that would become emblematic of the brand’s early years.

The Placide revisits the Hommage with a more traditional 38 mm round case in pink gold, giving it a refined, almost formal presence. The dial preserves the defining twin retrograde indicators for the day and date, complete with the familiar sloping font that remains as enduring as ever.

Interestingly, Placide is powered by new old stock RD14 movements that were first developed in 2004. Although Dubuis was no longer directly involved with the company at that time, the calibre dates from an era when he was still alive, making its reuse a poetic choice.

By restoring and modifying these early in-house movements rather than opting for a newer design, the manufacture underscores its respect for both its founder and its own watchmaking heritage.

Seeing a signature RD model reborn is refreshing. While in recent years the brand has mostly strayed into over-the-top designs, with aggressive open-worked movements and bold cases, it is nice to see the brand returning to one of the iconic designs that cemented its early reputation.

An expressive dial

La Placide — “calm” or “serene” in French — was Dubuis’ childhood nickname, making it a fitting tribute to the man himself. Ironically, the lively, multi-scale dial is anything but placid, embodying instead the expressive character that long defined his work.

Staying true to the brand’s original bi-retrograde perpetual calendars, the Placide’s dial layout is familiar, featuring a full perpetual calendar with moon phase. The busy dial does away with a seconds hand, which is for the best as it helps with legibility.

Constructed on five layers, the “Leman Blue” lacquered dial showcases the decorative complexity for which RD is known. The mother-of-pearl calendar sectors are raised and framed by polished pink gold flanges, while the moon phase display is recessed and rendered in glittering aventurine glass with curved yellow gold discs representing the moon.

The central hour and minute hands are sharply faceted, while the retrograde indicators feature open-worked tips, consistent with the brand’s early design language.

Subtle red accents—including on the minutes track and the leap-year indicator—add a touch of vibrancy that recalls the whimsy of early RD creations.

All in all, the new Placide’s dial is a faithful yet upscaled remake of the original. The iconic look paired with a round 18K pink gold case bridges the eccentricity of the early models with an understated, more contemporary profile.

A renewed and reworked calibre

Powering this limited edition is a set of refurbished, RD14 movements. Launched back in 2004, the automatic calibers were developed at a time when RD was aggressively developing its own in-house calibers to replace the aging Lemania base movement used up to that point. 

But RD didn’t just drop in some old movements. On the contrary, the movements were upgraded during refurbishment; the manufacture claims to have recalculated the gear dimensions for increased power-transfer efficiency.

The recalculation entailed repositioning the gear axles and, presumably, making some modifications to the entraxe (axle center distance). Retrofitting a revised gear train to an existing mainplate is no easy feat.

The RD72 perpetual calendar modules are also reused originals, but like the RD14 base movements to which they are paired, have been extensively improved. RD claims to have remade the base plate and about 50% of the components for these modules.

Early RD72 modules were known to require frequent service, so it’s reasonable to think the upgrades were aimed at making them more reliable. Upgrades aside, the calendar module is still set using a stylus to engage recessed pushers in the case flanks.

As it is traditional with RD timepieces, the Placide holds a Poincon de Geneve certification. This means the movement meets some demanding criteria for construction, finishing, and rate performance.

With the introduction of many in-house certification programmes, like the Patek Philippe Seal, the Poincon de Geneve might feel outdated, but there’s really no substitute for independent third-party certification.

The automatic movement runs for 48 hours on a full wind and beats at the standard 4 Hz frequency. While the balance wheel is not free sprung, the regulator is securely anchored, as per Poincon de Geneve criteria, in this case with a swan neck setting.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Homage La Placide
Ref. RDDBHO0612

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. RD1472
Functions: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with retrograde day and date.
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Calf leather strap with matching 18K pink gold clasp

Limited edition: Yes, 28 pieces
Availability: Exclusively at Roger Dubuis boutiques
Price: CHF115,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Rogerdubuis.com

The just-concluded Geneva auction season was mostly a plateau with several striking peaks and a few lows. The peaks were marked by desirable timepieces that outperformed by far, yet shared little in common with one another in terms of style or period.

The peaks ranged from multiple F.P. Journe watches to a diamond-set Patek Philippe ref. 3424/1 “Gilbert Albert” to the Breguet four-minute tourbillon pocket watch from 1809 to the Instagram-ready Patek Philippe ref. 3970 in “salmon” with Breguet numerals. Despite such diverse taste, the small pool of bidders seemed to have one thing in common: they were all focused on a “trophy” watch.

The Christie’s saleroom in the Four Seasons. Image – Christie’s

With few exceptions, contemporary watches from mainstream brands were cold, while vintage watches were mostly lukewarm – but as always there were exceptions.

An Patek Philippe ref. 570 with a black dial signed “E. Gubelin” sold for an impressive CHF419,100 including fees, or US$523,000, at Christie’s, while Phillips sold a Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 “RCO” (or “Oyster Sotto”) for an equally impressive CHF1.39 million, or US$1.73 million – close to the historical peak for the model.

A vintage watch that surprised on the downside was the 1927 Rolex Oyster worn by Mercedes Gleitze when she became the first woman to swim the English Channel in 1927 – a landmark in Rolex lore. Though it sold for CHF1.39 million, or US$1.74 million, there was just one bid for “The Companion Oyster”, which sold for one step above the low estimate.

Although 2026 is the centenary of the Oyster watch case, Rolex did not buy the watch, instead an Asian collector did. Why did it not sell for more?

“The Companion Oyster” and a period advertisement. Image – Sotheby’s

Big numbers for pocket- and wristwatches

The headline result, however, was for a vintage watch: the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel that sold for CHF14.2 million, or about US$17.6 million. The number was just shy of the reputed price that the other ref. 1518 in steel sold for a few days before at Monaco Legend.

Unsurprisingly, bidding got off to a strong start with an in-room bidder – a noted collector who travelled from far away – kicking off the action with a bid of CHF8 million, interrupting auctioneer Aurel Bacs’ opening speech.

There were only a handful of other bidders, all on the phone, with the winner represented by Nathalie Monbaron of Phillips. The winner’s identity is unknown, but the language spoken on the phone might offer a clue.

The CHF14.2 million result makes this ref. 1518 the most valuable vintage Patek Philippe wristwatch ever sold at auction, but the price felt measured rather than manic. This reflects an overall softness in the market for vintage watches, even those with the halo of the ref. 1518 in steel. The same could be felt with other notable vintage watches that went on the block this season.

While the cleaned state of the watch was evident, it wasn’t likely a factor in the price since the other known ref. 1518s in steel have all been touched up in various ways; moreover, each of the known bidders were collectors with a keen eye.

Another major result of the season was for a timepiece that is entirely different: Breguet pocket watch no. 1890 with a gilded “Hidden Mickey” dial, a four-minute tourbillon, and échappement naturel.

One of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most important watches, no. 1890 is perhaps the only one of its type that will come to market for a long, long time. So despite the seven figure result, it was arguably a good buy.

The watch sold for CHF1.88 million, or about US$2.35 million, to a buyer whose identity was almost a forgone conclusion: François-Paul Journe. Only two other bidders went up against Mr Journe, with the underbidder being an Asian collector on the phone with Sam Hines of Sotheby’s, along with an online bidder from the other side of the world.

Mr Journe had made it very clear before the sale he wanted the watch. Beyond the historical significance, no. 1890 had been owned by noted English collector Cecil Clutton and repaired by George Daniels, giving it particular personal resonance for Mr Journe, who was acquainted with both men.

Mr Journe was bidding on a surprising diverse array of watches at the various auctions over the weekend, but Breguet no. 1890 was unquestionably his greatest purchase. The watch will star in the soon-to-open F.P. Journe Le Patrimoine museum, alongside Sympathique no. 1, also a Breguet timepiece but one made by Mr Journe many moons ago.

Breguet no. 1890 also underlined the surprising number of top-grade, high-value pocket watches that went under the hammer this season. It was part of Sotheby’s Breguet thematic sale to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, alongside several dozen Breguet pocket watches, as well as clocks and wristwatches.

The sale underscored many of the factors that shaped this season. One is the value disparity between the truly important, like the no. 1890, and the rest.

Another is the popularity of independent watchmaking. Selling for the same CHF1.88 million in the same sale – the winner was a noted collector of independent watchmaking – was a Breguet three-wheel pendulum clock – but one made in 1968 by George Daniels. The exceptional value is almost certainly entirely attributable to Daniels, since there is little in 20th century Breguet that scholars consider as important as its 19th century creations.

The craze for independent watchmakers started even before the physical auctions in Geneva. Online-only auctioneer Marteau & Co. concluded its inaugural sale a few days before the saleroom action, and achieved some strong numbers, including CHF228,000, or US$285,000, for a Daniel Roth ref. C187 double-faced tourbillon – more than the result for the same reference in pink gold at Phillips over the weekend.

The strength of demand was illustrated even more starkly over at Phillips, where some great examples of independent watchmaking went for stupendous prices, and so-so examples still achieved surprising values.

F.P. Journe Résonance Souscription no. 2 sold for CHF3.33 million, or US$4.16 million, double the ballpark value of the model before the sale. Only two phone bidders were responsible for the result, however, reflecting the niche nature of the Souscription and the lack of affordability.

Similarly rich results were achieved by F.P. Journe watches across the various auction houses, proving that the brand can defy gravity like shares of Palantir and Nvidia.

F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription no. 1. Image – Phillips

Also notable was the buying power of intellectually minded collectors, also known as nerds. A small ladies’ lapel watch, Breguet no. 1052, sold for CHF838,200 at Sotheby’s.

Though no. 1052 is a beautifully enamelled montre a tact, the result was over 16 times the high estimate. And that’s because no. 1052 is equipped with a previously unknown échappement libre à double roue, a co-axial double wheel escapement, which instantly gives it major historical and horological value.

The buying power of the nerds was arguably best demonstrated with the J. Player & Son “hyper” complication, a massive 77 mm pocket watch that was, in its day, one of the most complex timepieces ever made.

The J. Player & Sons supercomplication

With a descendant of J. Player in the saleroom, the pocket watch sold for CHF2.24 million, or about US$2.80 million at Phillips – with the two bidders seriously vying for the watch both coming from the same country.

About double the inflation-adjusted value the watch achieved when it last sold some three decades ago, the sum is even more enormous in today’s context considering collecting is dominated by wristwatches.

The Antiquorum saleroom in the Ritz-Carlton. Image – Antiquorum

Though the pocket watches and results were big, the audience is arguably narrow. Even though prices for some watches have climbed even higher than the pandemic-era boom, the pool of bidders feels smaller.

Many of the top lots across salerooms were sold to known collectors, with many underbidders being equally known. This phenomenon in turn reveals the intellectual crossover between independent watchmaking and pocket watches, since there was notable overlap in the bidders in these genres. The overlap with vintage watches is less pronounced, which perhaps explains the comparative weakness there.