Raymond Weil continues its run of affordable, retro-stylish Millesime with the Millesime Moon Phase Chronos Japan Edition. A collaboration with Chronos Japan Edition – one of the world’s best watch magazines but published only in Japanese – the latest Millesime was designed with the help of the magazine’s editor-in-chief, Masayuki Hirota.

Based on the regular production version, the Chronos Japan edition is a 35 mm in diameter while its design underlines Mr Hirota’s keen eye, especially for vintage-inspired aesthetics and watch geek-detail. This includes the Art Deco-style typography for the hour numerals, and the photorealistic moon based on NASA images. And despite being made largely for the Japanese market, this edition is available internationally via the brand’s online store.

Initial thoughts

I like the original versions of the Millesime; they are appealing watches. Though the build is basic, the Millesime is priced affordably and appropriately. More broadly, the Millesime’s launch two years ago marked something of a renaissance for Raymond Weil – one of the most successful watch brands globally in the 1980s and 1990s – at least in terms of mechanical watches that enthusiasts paid attention to.

The standard versions of the Millesime are numerous, and mostly share the same design, so it’s really the limited edition runs that are interesting. And fortunately there aren’t too many limited editions, at least for now.

The Chronos edition qualifies as interesting. Though it resembles the standard version at the distance, it easily stands apart in the metal. For one, it is just 35 mm in diameter – small by contemporary standards but arguably ideal for the vintage-inspired design.

And then there are the details, like the typography for the numerals, which fit the styling of the watch perfectly. And the photorealistic moon phase is a nice touch.

My only gripe is the text on the dial. Both the branding and “Automatic” are too modern. Getting a custom print job for a watch priced as affordably as this is probably too big of an ask. That said, the lettering on the dial doesn’t take away much from the overall appeal.

Raymond Weil chief executive Elie Bernheim (left), with Masayuki Hirota

Japanese taste

The Chronos edition is the second Japan-only Millesime unveiled this year, following the time-only edition for Japanese retailer Shellman. Both share a vintage-inflected aesthetic with an emphasis on details; the two models, for example, feature custom typography for the numerals that are unique to each edition.

The Chronos edition is differentiated by the dial design and details. Finished in slate blue and silver, the dial sticks to the “sector” style that defines the Millesime. But while the standard dials mostly have baton indices, this sports Arabic numerals for the hours. Rendered in a sans serif font, the numerals have an Art Deco flavour to them, which complements the dial design perfectly.

The moon phase at six o’clock abandons the smiling moon “face” found on the regular production model, instead opting for a moon that replicates the actual lunar surface. Relying on NASA photographs, the moon features the shadows and craters found on the actual Moon.

The two-tone dial also is finished with a variety of surface textures

The Chronos model is based on the 35 mm Millesime Moon Phase launched last year. While the standard model debuted as a ladies’ watch, the Chronos version is a conceived primarily as a men’s watch. The compact size is in keeping with the Japanese preference for vintage styling with proper dimensions, perhaps reflecting a wider emphasis on historical coherence and discreet design.

The case retains the standard Millesime design that is clearly inspired by a mid-20th century aesthetic. Amongst the notable features is the chamfered edge on the bezel, and the domed “box” sapphire crystal.

Like all other Millesime models, this is powered by a version of the Sellita SW200. Christened the RW4280, this is essentially an SW200 with a moon phase. The look is basic, though appropriate for the price. The calibre has been dressed up (a little) with blackened screw heads.

Key facts and price

Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase Chronos Japan Edition
Ref. 2145-STC-RIH01

Diameter: 35 mm
Height: 9.98 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. RW4280
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 41 hours

Strap: Calf-skin leather strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: At Raymond Weil Japan Official Online Store, as well as Ishida Shinjuku, Ishida Omotesando, and Ishida N43°
Price: JPY462,000 including tax

For more, visit Raymond-weil.jp.