Ulysse Nardin presents a surprisingly striking new version of its most forward-thinking tourbillon, the Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. An interesting blend of classic finishing and bold, three-dimensional architecture, the limited edition piece is unlike the generally future-forward aesthetic pushed by Ulysse Nardin in recent years.

The latest Blast Free Wheel retains the novel movement construction with elevated moving parts and a constant force mechanism integrated inside the tourbillon, but now set against a traditional, grained plate in maillechort, or German silver.

Initial thoughts

The Free Wheel is a long established collection, having been rolled out in several case styles over time, but this new incarnation is arguably the best one yet. The Le Locle-based brand is known for its overall loud designs and its tendency to push a very modernist look, so the old-school approach with maillechort is unexpected but appealing.

The Blast Free Wheel still retains a somewhat loud case design, but the modernism here is more restrained and the futuristic movement is toned down by its finishing. As the name suggests, the main point is maillechort, a brass alloy better known as German silver.

Long employed in historical watches, the material is usually associated with classic timepieces from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne or artisanal watchmakers, but here it compliments the avant-garde movement well.

The soft silver-grey hue of the German silver serves as an excellent backdrop for the modern architecture of the Free Wheel tourbillon movement. The coarse, granular texture of the main plate even reminds me of antique marine chronometer calibres with gilt-frosted movements — a fitting tribute given Ulysse Nardin’s history in maritime timekeepers.

The only aspect that do not work in the watch’s favour is the fanciful, yet uninspired case that is bulky and overly facetted. And also the somewhat steep price of well over US$120,000, which places it in competition with more cohesive-designed tourbillons.

An original calibre

Any discussion about the Blast Free Wheel needs to be centred around the movement. From the beginning it is clear that the UN-176 calibre was engineered to be “floating”. While “floating” barrels or flying tourbillons are common enough individually, the Free Wheel movement is perhaps the only one in modern watchmaking that has almost every moving part in a “floating” set-up.

The movement has two stacked, serially-linked barrels at the 12 o’clock position which appear to be floating, with no upper bridge holding them. Such “flying barrels” were used extensively by Derek Pratt amongst others, and they usually call for a complex construction. Having two stacked barrels arranged in a flying configuration further complicates the matter. Together, the two mainsprings hold a power reserve of seven days. 

Close to the co-axial barrels sits the layered power reserve differential (also in a flying configuration) and a complex set of reducing planetary gears.

The futuristic power reserve indicator sits far from the differential, at about four o’clock. This means the power reserve’s motion is relayed all the way to the indicator, but the construction leaves the impression that there is nothing linking the components. 

Bringing the movement together is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock. We have previously covered the nature and history of flying tourbillons in a past article. While the Blast Free Wheel tourbillon follows the classic construction, there is one element that makes it unique – Ulysse Nardin’s own Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement within the tourbillon.

A small constant force escapement

Made from silicon, the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement was unveiled originally in 2014 and was used by Ulysse Nardin in select timepieces ever since. The Anchor Constant Escapement features both an improved Swiss escapement geometry and a constant force implement which shields the oscillator from the decreasing power coming from the mainsprings.

The concept is similar to the Girard Perregaux Constant Escapement, but executed differently by embracing the true extent of silicon manufacturing advantages which simplifies the construction.

The core concept remains the same: isolating the balance wheel from the main going train by driving the balance by a pair of slim, buckling silicon blades. The escapement first “charges” the blades, which then snap from one stable equilibrium position to another and discharge their energy into the balance. The mainsprings and going train are thus isolated from the oscillator.

When the balance unlocks the anchor, it gets its impulse from the attached buckled blade, while the escape wheel charges up the opposing blade for the next cycle. The balance wheel is free sprung and the hairspring is crafted from silicium — the Ulysse Nardin oscillator beating at a 2.5 Hz frequency.

Due to the elastic nature of silicon and its construction, the escapement transmits the same amount of energy each time. Even if the decreasing power from the mainsprings causes the escape wheel to charge the blades slower or with less force, the oscillator always receives the same amount of energy from the silicon blades snapping back into place, which makes it more isochronous. 

The system is both slim and light enough to be mounted on a tourbillon platform. It uses a clever flexural pivot instead of a classic staff and bearing  pivot for the escapement anchor. A flexural pivot is an interesting mechanical contraption that creates virtual pivot points from crisscrossing blade springs. This drastically reduces friction and also gives some interesting proprieties to the pivoting pieces. Since the anchor works with a flexural pivot there is no need for a jewelled staff or a dedicated bridge to hold it.

Maillechort

The main and backplates are crafted from unplated German silver that is a pronounced silver-grey with a golden tint. At first sight it looks fresh as German silver always does, but being untreated, Ulysse Nardin promises the maillechort will develop slight patina over time. 

The choice of pronounced graining that resembles traditional frosting was inspired, especially in combination with the brushed and almost monochromatic look of the movement. The clear jewels used allow the movement to be dominated by two colours only: blue and grey. 

Wide and boxy case

The 45 mm wide case feels very modern, with several facetted surfaces along with angular flanks and lugs. Crafted from white gold, the case features both brushed and polished surfaces, which create an overly complicated pattern. 

Its diameter is also a somewhat exaggerated 45 mm. This is due in part to the domed sapphire construction, but the case contains a wide movement ring that looks like it could have easily been narrowed down, perhaps resulting in a more palatable 42 mm case.

One positive trait of the case construction is the “box type” sapphire crystal, which is sloped downwards and creates the transparent flanks for the case. This allows an impressive view of the layered movement, something that is rarely found outside of artisanal watchmaking. The complex construction is partly responsible for the substantial 12.4 mm thickness of the watch. 

Key facts and price

Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort
Ref. 1760-401LE-4A-MAIL/3A

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Material: White gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. UN-176
Functions: Hours, minutes, power reserve indicator, and flying tourbillon with constant force escapement
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 7 days

Strap: Waterproof rubber strap

Limited edition: 5o pieces
Availability: At Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$126,600 before taxes

For more, visit Ulysse-nardin.com.