Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises.

Initial thoughts

The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches.

The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module. 

Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation.

Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face.

Also, the dial appearance evokes the perpetual calendar wristwatches made under the direction of Peter Baumberger, the former owner of Urban Jürgensen, such as the lack of a dial-side leap year indicator, bridging the gap between the brand’s recent past and its perspectives.

The only downside of the UJ-3 is its thickness. It’s a consequence of the calendar module, and not merely design, but the case is almost 14 mm high and looks it on the wrist.

The UJ-3 is the most novel and possibly most interesting from Urban Jürgensen’s lineup, as it seems suggestive of Urban Jürgensen’s direction moving forward. In comparison, the UJ-1 looks back on the past, honouring and taking inspiration from Derek Pratt’s work for the brand. But as with the other two models, the piece is priced rather high – retail is CHF168,000 – all things considered. 

A balanced display 

It is clear that the UJ-3 is built on the base of the time-only UJ-2. Key elements of the UJ-2, namely the off-centred main dial, the eccentric small seconds, and the hand-applied engine turning, are all found in the UJ-3 as well. 

The design, however, does lead to a possible legibility issue on the register at five o’clock showing both the seconds and the date. Hands for both are in the same shade and nearly the same length, making it difficult for the wearer to tell the date from the seconds at a passing glance. Bluing either of the two would probably solve the problem.

The calendar indications are laid out around the dial, with the day of the week and month on opposite sides, cutting into the dial ring. The day of the month is co-axial with the small seconds, saving space.

There is also a small moon phase display, placed under the day of the week indication, which balances the oversized seconds and date sub dial. Interestingly, the moon phase display is accurate to a day in 14,000 years. This points to Andreas Strehler’s involvement, who until 2024 held the record for the most accurate mechanical moon phase, one day deviation in two million years.

The UJ-3 movement

Andreas Strehler’s involvement with the project is indeed exceptional, since he is one of the most talented movement constructors today. Having both Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler build a timepiece for a historically prestigious name like Urban Jürgensen is a rare occurrence. Notably, the two greats have only worked together once before, at least publicly, for the Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three.

One of Mr Strehler’s most famous works is the perpetual calendar movement that’s the trademark of H. Moser & Cie. Mr Strehler designed that complication from a whole different angle. There are some parallels to be drawn with the Moser perpetual calendar, also designed by Mr Strehler. Both are entirely different movements, but share some construction cues, which is unsurprising given their common creator.

The UJ-3 caliber has a pointer date display and reinterprets the classic perpetual calendar with the date, day of the week, month and moon phase all displayed. There are small pushers on the case, pointing to the fact that the calendar is not entirely set through the crown.

The UJ-3 caliber seems to have benefited from Mr Strehler’s past experience with perpetual calendars. The calendar display jumps instantly at midnight. The moon phase also jumps instantly, which is not usually the case with traditional calendars. As the mechanism slowly creeps to the next date, it drags the moon phase along. Here, since the calendar works jump instantly, the moon phase follows suit, presumably geared off the other display. 

Like the Moser calibre, the UJ-3 movement has its leap year cycle displayed on the backside and has an instantaneous date jump. But the similarities between the Moser and Urban Jürgensen calendars run deeper, to the core of the date-changing mechanism. 

Upper disk, with a functional cutout.

The months are displayed by two coaxial disks, each holding six months. The upper disk has a cutout; after March ends, the cutout locks in place, allowing the disk underneath to display the months from April on.

Also, the uneven edges of the two-month disks suggest the assembly might even serve as the month cam, from which the mechanism reads off the lengths of the months.  

Lower disk

From the back, the UJ-3 caliber is practically identical to the UJ-2, save for the leap year indicator next to the barrel. The 5N rose gold gilding is the same, with most of the surfaces heavily grained, edges rounded and generous perlage on the mainplate. 

The 2.5Hz free-sprung balance is powered by a double wheel direct impulse escapement — in fact virtually the same design as the Voutilainen uses in his Vingt-8 series. The system is the same used in the UJ-2. 

The UJ-3 features the same case as the other two models; it’s 39 mm in diameter and 13.9 in thickness — slightly more than the thinner UJ-2. It has a simple case band that’s brushed, with a stepped and polished bezel, along with refined engine-turning on the case back.

Each being a separate piece secured to the case middle, the lugs are described as “reinterpreted teardrop”.

Considering the styling of the watch, the lugs feel a little too modern and angular, but the need to establish a new design identity is understandable. Much like the other models, the UJ-3 is available in two metals, platinum or 5N rose gold.

Key facts and price

Urban Jürgensen UJ-3
Ref. UJ-3-PT-B-001 (platinum, black dial)
Ref. UJ-3-RG-B-001 (rose gold, black dial)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: 950 platinum or 5N rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UJ-3
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, perpetual calendar
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual winding
Power reserve: 52 hours

Strap: Leather with 950 platinum or 5N rose gold pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Urban Jürgensen
Price: CHF168,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Urbanjurgensen.com.