At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing.

Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.)

Initial thoughts

Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch.

Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick.

It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, which looks like a rubber strap but in true Rolex fashion is engineered for maximum durability and features a flexible metal core. I personally like the look and the comfort of the Oysterflex, which helps dress the watch down compared to the typical Oyster bracelet with polished center links.

Of course, the most eye-catching part of this new Daytona is its turquoise lacquer dial. Rolex has made turquoise Daytonas in the past, with one being actual mineral stone, but they’re still rare enough to stand out. But the new Daytona is the first to combine a turquoise dial with a ceramic bezel, panda colourway, and pencil-shaped hour markers.

Arguably the best part of any modern Daytona is the movement. Hidden behind a solid yellow gold case back, the cal. 4131 includes the brand’s own Chronergy escapement, and features a fully serviceable vertical clutch and anti-backlash gearing for smooth operation. And while Rolex seems to be favouring silicon hairsprings lately, the cal. 4131 still retains its elegant Parachrom overcoil hairspring.

Depending on how you look at it, the retail price of US$37,400 is either a lot of money for an industrially produced sport watch on a rubber strap, or a reasonable proposition for a distinctive and unusual precious metal version of what might be the most well-made chronograph on the market. Most collectors will probably resonate more with the latter perspective.

(And for any enthusiasts who thinks this is not enough, Rolex also launched the Daytona ref. 126538TBR at the same time. Unlike this “Stella” version, the Daytona ref. 126538TBR has an actual turquoise mineral stone dial, along with a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs. Priced at over four times the “Stella” Daytona, this is an “off-catalogue” model, shown only to retailers at Watches & Wonders, explaining the lack of photos.)

The goldilocks chronograph

It’s difficult to find something new to say about a watch like the Rolex Daytona. Largely unchanged for nearly 50 years, the Daytona has a well-earned reputation for functional excellence, timeless design, and effortless ergonomics. Over the years brand has made countless variations, but has avoided the all-too-common pitfall of diluting the signature form to suit the tastes of the moment. The result is that even new references like this one feel instantly familiar.

When reviewing watches, many things are subjective, but ergonomics are at least somewhat less subjective. The Daytona’s compact dimensions help it wear well on wrists of all sizes, something that has no doubt contributed to its enduring appeal. In this case, the comfort is dialed up a notch with the Oysterflex bracelet, which is engineered with internal elastomer blades for maximum ventilation.

Even better than before

For nearly a quarter century, the Rolex cal. 4130 reigned supreme over all other industrially produced chronograph movements. Its mechanical simplicity resulted in outstanding precision and reliability, traits that won it many admirers, myself among them.

Despite this dominant position, Rolex saw fit to replace this venerable movement with the cal. 4131 in 2023. The small difference in nomenclature has always felt misleading to me, since the inclusion of the Chronergy escapement seems like a pretty big deal.

Regardless, the cal. 4131 features all the things that made its predecessor a great movement while managing to reduce the parts count even further. Otherwise, it’s still a 4 Hz chronograph with a free-sprung balance and overcoil hairspring. It runs for up to 72 hours when fully wound, and features state-of-the-art anti-backlash gearing to ensure stutter-free operation.

Despite being hidden behind a solid case back, the movement in the new Daytona is further dressed up with Rolex striping and a solid 18k gold winding mass. I find the faux gold chatons off-putting, but the overall look is clean and attractive.

Closing thoughts

Some watches seem almost born for Instagram, this being one. The singular combination of turquoise, black, yellow gold is easily recognisable even at a great distance, all but ensuring its popularity. But more importantly, after the hype fades, the undeniable intrinsic quality will remain.

Key facts and price

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Turquoise Blue”
Ref. 126518LN

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 4131
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Oysterflex synthetic rubber with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$37,400 before taxes

For more, visit Rolex.com.