Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction that takes place on May 11 is a relatively compact affair. But the 124 lots includes notable highlights, with the top lot of the sale being the especially unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” ref. 16516 in platinum with a pink mother-of-pearl dial.

This watch is one of just four Daytonas combining the El Primero movement and platinum case – the only platinum specimens in the 16500-series Daytona – all of which were made at the behest of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999.

Famous for being powered by the cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, the 16500-series was the first-ever self-winding Daytona. The model was never commercially available in platinum; the four examples in platinum are truly unique.

Moreover, each of the four are one-of-a-kind, each fitted with a different dial in exotic materials. Sotheby’s sold the prior three examples, starting with black mother-of-pearl in 2018, lapis lazuli in 2020, and turquoise in 2021. While those three featured applied Arabic numbers, this example has diamond hour markers.

Initial thoughts

The unique nature of this Daytona is unquestionable. Amongst automatic Daytonas this ranks amongst the rarest and most valuable. Two of its platinum siblings sold for over US$3 million each, making them the priciest modern-day Daytonas.

Of the four platinum Daytonas, however, this example is the most paradoxical. It’s the most unusual in having diamond indices, but also the most low key as it is practically identical to the regular production ref. 16519 in white gold with a pink mother-of-pearl dial. This is probably the most discreet million-dollar (or franc) Daytona out there.

In the hand this seems to feel a little heavier than its white gold equivalent, as it should be. The primary tangible difference lies in the hallmarks on the case and clasp.

Interestingly, this example appears to have been worn regularly for a long period of time. The wear is even on consistent on the case and clasp, though there is no significant damage. The original owner, who has consigned it to Sotheby’s, clearly enjoyed the watch for years.

A platinum quartet

All four platinum watches were made in 1999 for a particular occasion, essentially making them a set of four matched watches.

The case is identical to that of the white gold equivalent, except that it is in platinum. Notably, the crown and pushers also appear to be platinum.

As was standard for watches delivered to France at the time, the case back has a precious metal hallmark. This also sports a personalised dedication on the back that’s been digitally concealed at the consigner’s request.

The four watches were distinguished by dials in usual materials, then far more exotic than they are now. This watch sports a dial in pink mother-of-pearl that is almost white but underlined with a faint pink hue.

While this example has a dial in arguably the most common material of mother-of-pearl, it stands out for having brilliant-cut diamond indices. It’s the only watch of the four with diamond markers.

Notably, this watch, like its three siblings, is paired with a matching platinum folding clasp. Though simple, the clasp is equally unique, as I cannot recall any other Rolex model at the time having a platinum folding clasp.

The platinum Daytona ref. 16516 with a pink mother-of-pearl dial has an estimate of CHF700,000-1.40 million. It’s the final lot (126) in Sotheby’s Important Watches sale taking place on May 11, 2025 in Geneva. For more, visit Sothebys.com.