The spring auction season kicks off in less than a week, and while there are many interesting lots worthy of attention, there are a few museum-grade Cartier clocks at Phillips that demand a close look. All made between 1905 and 1940, the most exceptional pieces date to the roaring twenties when Cartier was synonymous with Art Deco extravagance.

The lots are spread across two auctions – Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which takes place on May 10th and 11th, and Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX which takes place from May 23rd to May 25th.

There are three important mystery clocks hitting the block, the most significant being portico clock No. 3, along with a handful of artfully engraved jade desk clocks. Rounding out the bunch, an amusing prism clock should keep things interesting for those bidding with smaller budgets.

An introduction to Cartier mystery clocks

In the early twentieth century, Cartier was on top of the world. England’s King Edward VII had just granted the firm a royal warrant, calling Cartier the “jeweler of kings” and, perhaps more significantly, “The king of jewelers.”

But the Parisian firm wasn’t coasting on this praise, and shortly thereafter stunned the world with a clock with hands that appeared to float in space. This ‘mysterious’ effect was achieved by attaching the hands to rotating glass plates that were driven from the edge. The first such clock was the Modèle A, which debuted in 1912.

A Cartier Modèle A. Image – Phillips

The mystery clock concept was brought to life by Louis Cartier and his chief clockmaker Maurice Coüet. These clocks delighted the firm’s elite clientele of the era, such as American financier John Pierpont Morgan, who is said to have purchased the first Modèle A shortly before his death.

But like many first-generation products, the Modèle A had a shortcoming, requiring separate axels for driving the hour and minute disks. This technical limitation prevented Cartier from exploring more creative designs.

Portico clock No. 3’s floating hands, diamond-set and shaped like a dragon. Image – Phillips

In 1920, Coüet managed to consolidate both functions into a single axel, a breakthrough that led directly to the landmark collection of six portico clocks constructed between 1923 and 1925.

The single axel design drives the hands through what at first appears to be a chain. Image – Phillips

Cartier’s mystery clocks were powered by exclusive key-wound movements made by LeCoultre, though they were usually signed European Watch and Clock Co. (EWC).

A European Watch Co. mystery clock movement. Image – Phillips

EWC was a joint venture between Cartier and Edmond Jaeger set up to supply the former with movements. LeCoultre would supply the clock mechanisms, and Cartier would add the ‘mystery’ components in the brand’s own workshops.

The Cartier clock workshop circa 1920s. Image – Phillips

GWA XXI lot 118 – Cartier Portico Mystery Clock No. 3

Of all the Cartier mystery clocks, the so-called ‘portico’ clocks are considered the most important. Only six were made, all between 1923 and 1925.

Each of the six feature a gate-like structure with a clock face suspended like a gong. The portico clocks were created at a time when elite social circles were enthralled with Far Eastern art and objects, and the clocks were designed with this clientele in mind.

Of the six, the present example No. 3 dates to 1924 and is said to be one of the most extravagant; it’s easy to see why. No expense was spared in its creation, and the bill of materials includes rose quartz, enamel, onyx, rock crystal, and diamonds.

Equal parts timekeeper and objet d’art, No. 3 is distinguished by its pink rose quartz pillars, which differentiate it from all other portico clocks which featured rock crystal pillars.

Portico clock No. 3 is distinguished by its rose quartz pillars. Image – Phillips

The clock is powered by an EWC movement hidden in the top of the portico structure, with a single axel powering the floating hour and minute hands through what appears to be a chain. This hanging look emphasises the mystery effect, and must have seemed almost miraculous in its day.

Clock No. 3 was first seen in 1925 at the Paris Exposition des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels and was last sold publicly in 1988. Needless to say, portico clocks don’t surface often, so bidding could be fierce.

This lot is arguably the highlight of the Spring auction season and is estimated to hammer for at least CHF2,000,000.

GWA XXI lot 22 – Cartier Prism

Compared to the landmark portico clock, lot 22, a tiny prism clock is merely a trinket. But what a trinket it is, featuring a tiny EWC movement that mysteriously displays the time through just one side of a cubic prism.

This mechanism was designed by Gaston Cusin and was patented in 1937, a few years before the present example was produced. Made of 18k yellow gold, the Prism clock fits in the palm of the hand, just 17.5 mm square and 28.5 mm tall.

This particular example is even more charming because it comes with the original fitted presentation box, which is frankly adorable.

The estimate for the Prism is CHF10,000 – CHF20,000.

HKWA XX lot 802 – Cartier Mystery Clock

Twelve days after the Geneva auction concludes, bidding gets under way in Hong Kong. The headline clock at HKWA: XX is lot 802, a single-axel mystery clock made around 1930.

The clock features a show-stopping red coral sculpture of a Bixie and a dragon, which was probably made earlier and adapted for its current use. In Chinese folklore, the Bixie (辟邪) is usually depicted as a cross between a lion and a dragon and is associated with strength and protection.

Sitting atop the coral is a sensationally elaborate octagonal mystery clock, complete with mother-of-pearl bezel and floating diamond-set hands. The bezel is further decorated with clouds painted in black lacquer, a motif that is repeated on the clock’s base, which conceals a key-wound EWC movement.

Some of the most expressive details include the highly stylised Roman numerals and beautifully faceted octagonal rock crystal.

The clock carries an estimate of HK$2 million – 3 million (US$256,000-513,000).

HKWA XX lot 905 – Cartier Modèle A Mystery Clock

No sale of Cartier mystery clocks would be complete without a Modèle A, which was the original mystery clock design. The debut of the Modèle A in 1912 cemented Cartier’s position as the most prestigious jeweler if the age.

In total, Cartier produced around 60 Modèle A clocks. The present example dates to 1925 and it’s interesting to note that Cartier continued to produce the dual axel mystery clocks for years after developing the single axel design, suggesting that the original remained popular.

It’s not hard to see why mystery clocks like this were such a sensation. The rock crystal construction, which in this example is in excellent condition, appears to show every bit of the clock, which hides its EWC movement in its base.

The estimate for this seminal mystery clock is HK$2-4 million (US$256,000-513,000).

HKWA XX lot 806 – Cartier Lantern Clock

Turning away from mystery clocks, the Hong Kong auction also presents the opportunity to own a spectacular jade lantern clock that glows from within.

Made mostly of intricately carved jade, the clock is built to resemble a Chinese lantern, and is decorated with 18k yellow gold, onyx, lacquer, diamonds, and coral.

The lantern clock truly glows. Image – Phillips

But it doesn’t just resemble a lantern; it is a lantern. The clock contains a small electric bulb that illuminates translucent mother-of-pearl dials on either side, backlighting the diamond-set hands.

This would have been remarkably advanced for its time, but that didn’t stop Cartier from going the extra mile with the traditional decoration as well. The engraved coral and mother-of-pearl inlays, in particular, are a joy to behold.

An undeniably beautiful objet d’art, the clock also happens to have an interesting history. Originally made in 1925, the clock was evidently purchased through Bulgari in Rome in 1954 by none other than King Farouk of Egypt, who was then living in exile in Italy.

The royal crown of King Farouk. Image – Phillips

The evidence of Farouk’s ownership is circumstantial but compelling. He was known for having a voracious appetite for clocks and watches, so it’s not surprising to see his crown, with its distinctive crescent and star, set with diamonds added to one side of the clock.

The clock comes with its original presentation box which is artfully fitted to match the clock’s contours.

The estimate for the lantern clock is HK$960,000-1.92 million (US$123,000-246,000).

HKWA XX lot 811 – Cartier Repeating Desk Clock

The most horologically complex of the bunch is lot 811, a jade desk clock that features a minute repeater. Compared to the other clocks in he sale, it’s structure is fairly ordinary, but there are two aspects of the clock that make it interesting.

The first is the minute repeater, which is activated by pushing down on a translucent nephrite Fu Dog that sits atop the clock. In Chinese culture, the Fu Dog is an ornamental lion that is known to symbolise prosperity and good fortune.

But more than the minute repeater, the clock is distinguished by its dial and two side panels which are decorated with a technique known as Laque Burgauté that involves inlaying mother-of-pearl into black lacquer. In China, where this craft originated during the Ming dynasty, the technique is known as lo tien. The technique later became popular in Japan during the Edo period, where it was called aogai.

A form of marquetry, the Laque Burgauté technique results in exquisite, shimmering designs. Cartier is known to have made a small number of these clocks, one of which sits in the brand’s museum collection, and each features a unique scene.

The desk clock, which dates to 1929, is estimated at HK$560,000-1.12 million (US$71,800-144,000).

HKWA XX lot 815 – Cartier Jade Desk Clock

Another highlight of the spring auction season is lot 815, which features a vivid green jade dial. Dating to 1925, the clock was originally retailed by Cartier London and since then has only surfaced once, in 1992.

Interestingly, the circular bangle, made of black enamel-coated red amber, and the engraved jade dial may have been sourced nearly as-is from the Far East and repurposed as components for this clock.

At a time when European luxury goods are marketed as the antidote to mass produced goods ‘Made in China’, this clock is a reminder that fine craftsmanship transcends borders.

Accompanied by an archive extract, the estimate for this desk clock is HK$1.2-2.4 million (US$154,000-308,000).

HKWA XX lot 906 – Cartier Table Clock

Last but not least, lot 906 is oldest clock of the bunch. Dating to 1905 and originally retailed by Cartier Paris, the table clock is made mostly of pink marble. The the obelisk-like structure is 8 cm square and stands a mighty 19 cm tall, and features a barometer in addition to a clock.

To cap things off, the tabletop obelisk is embellished with a hand-carved translucent stone elephant. Carved from a type of agate, the elephant is perfectly preserved.

The clock’s brilliant condition is thanks to the presence of its original green box. The colour of the box might be surprising, since the red Cartier box is almost as famous as the brand itself, but Cartier did not adopt its signature red colour until after 1910.

This clock has only been sold publicly once before, in 1992. Its reemergence, more than a century after its creation, may be fleeting.

This lavish table clock is estimated at HK$1.2-2.4 million (US$154,000-308,000).

Preview and auction

The sales and preview exhibitions will take place at the Hotel President Wilson in Geneva and Phillips Hong Kong in the West Kowloon Cultural District, respectively.

Geneva

Preview:
May 7-11 (Weds-Fri 10:00 am to 7:00 pm; Sat 9:00 am to 7:00 pm; Sun 9:00 am to 1:00 pm)

Auction:
May 10 – 2:00 pm (GWA: XXI lots 1-103)
May 11 – 2:00 pm (GWA: XXI lots 104-199)

Hotel President Wilson
Quai Wilson 47
Geneva, Switzerland, 1211

Hong Kong

Preview:
May 16-25 (daily from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm)

Auction:
May 23 – 6:30 pm (HKWA: XX lots 801-816)
May 24 – 2:00 pm (HKWA: XX lots 817-933)
May 25 – 2:00 pm (HKWA: XX lots 934-1058)

G/F WKCDA Tower
Cultural District
8 Austin Road West
Kowloon, Hong Kong

(All times are local time)

The online catalogues are available here: GWA XXI and HKWA XX.