Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch.

Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking.

Initial thoughts

The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check.

The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let its design do the talking.

The Loco offers sensible proportions at 41 mm and 13.7 mm thick. Visually it’s going to wear a lot thinner, since 3.55 mm of that thickness is due to the highly domed box sapphire crystal that offers a three-dimensional view of the dial-side oscillator and multi-level dial.

The watch features the three-piece case from other Twelve models, so it has the familiar 12-sided bezel and tapering stainless steel bracelet that can be removed and reinstalled without tools. On an otherwise versatile case, one stat stands out in the negative, which is the 30 m water resistance rating. It’s probably plenty, but one should expect more security from such a sporty watch. According to Christopher Ward, the Loco does feature a screw-down crown, but more water resistance would have meant an even thicker crystal, and the brand choose to optimise for wearing comfort.

Most watches in this price tier use generic movements and focus on differentiated design, but the Loco is all about its movement. The CW-003 is a manually wound six-day movement with twin mainspring barrels and an inverted free-sprung balance positioned on the dial side of the watch. Beyond its specs, the movement is interesting due to its three-dimensional architecture, which is unusually appealing.

The Loco is a lot of watch for US$4,825 on a steel bracelet. It’s one of those watches that makes me wonder how my own collecting journey would be different if I were starting out again today as a young collector. For those who appreciate the integrated bracelet aesthetic and enjoy sculptural watchmaking, it’s worth a serious look.

How we got here

If your first thought when seeing the CW-003 movement was “Where did this come from?” then you’re in good company. It’s visually striking in a way that makes its hard to see its roots in the earlier SH21, the brand’s first in-house movement from 2014.

Christopher Ward’s path to making its own movements should sound familiar. Wishing to insulate itself from supply risks, the brand collaborated with Biel-based manufacturer Synergies Horlogères to develop a double-barreled movement based on the tried-and-true Valjoux cal. 7750 architecture.

The SH21 movement debuted in 2014, the same year Christopher Ward merged with Synergies Horlogères. Over the next decade, the brand continued to make watches powered by the SH21 alongside entry level models powered by Sellita movements.

But the brand was relatively quiet, making mostly cookie cutter dive, pilot, and dress watches. Things changed in a big way in 2022 when the Christopher Ward introduced the Bel Canto, an affordable hour-striker that put the business end of the movement, namely the hammer, gong, and column wheel, front-and-center on the dial.

More importantly, they found a way to make these components look good and form the basis of the entire design, a trait that usually carries a five-figure price tag. The Loco is the next step and continues this theme.

A worthy oscillator

When you put the oscillator on the dial, it’s important to get it right, so it’s fitting that the CW-003 debuts the brand’s first-ever free-sprung balance. All prior Christopher Ward watches have been adjusted by means of a curb-pin regulator, common to most entry level watch movements. While cheap and effective, curb-pin regulators can drift over time and reduce the hairspring’s ability to breathe concentrically.

For decades, free-sprung balances were the exclusive domain of Patek Philippe and Rolex, and didn’t become common even in high-end watchmaking until the early 2000s. Since that time, more advanced manufacturing techniques have enabled this technology to diffuse broadly throughout the industry. While many Christopher Ward watches are COSC-certified to run within -4 to + 6 seconds per day, the CW-003 is certified to an internal benchmark of -0 to +7 seconds per day.

A mechanical education on the wrist

The CW-003’s free-sprung balance is positioned at six o’clock and is supported by a large bridge that spans the entire width of the dial. A second bridge reveals the escape wheel, and the entire construction is visible from multiple angles thanks to the box sapphire crystal, making the C12 Loco something of an escapement model for the wrist, not unlike far pricier watches like the MB&F LM101.

The upper half of the dial is occupied by a a small display for the hours and minutes flanked by a screwed dial plate. The upper and lower dial surfaces are available in a variety of colours, including black, white, blue, and orange.

The time display is similar to that of the Bel Canto, positioned off-center and comprised of multiple applied elements that provide depth to the design. An intriguing details is the moat-like opening around the cannon pinion that reveals a portion of the motion works.

Party in the back

Unlike the Bel Canto, which features a lively and dynamic dial construction that sits on top of a comparatively pedestrian Sellita movement, the CW-003 is almost equally enthralling on the back. This is where the movement’s roots in the SH21 are most apparent, with two large exposed mainspring barrels that help provide six days’ worth of energy for the balance, which ticks at the 4 Hz rate embedded in its DNA.

Of course, the bridge forms have been entirely reworked into three large cocks that support the barrels and the intermediate winding wheel. At this price point the finishing is necessarily industrial, but smart choices have been made that enhance the overall appearance.

The angular cocks, for example, feature large facets and flanks that can be cleanly machine-finished, and the monochromatic colour palette and simple slate of surface textures help emphasise the three-dimensional nature of the design. The result is what might be the most dramatically architected movement under US$5,000.

Key facts and price

Christopher Ward C12 Loco

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: CW-003
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 144 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Starting April 24, 2025 at 3 pm GMT at Christopher Ward online store
Price: US$4,595 on the rubber strap; US$4,825 on the bracelet

For more, visit christopherward.com.