Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up.

Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct.

The 28 mm model with a lavender dial

Initial thoughts

Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging).

The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time.

41 mm with a pistachio green dial

Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bestsellers as is usually the case for Rolex’s new launches.

36 mm with a beige dial

Matte pastel

The new trio sport dials in matte lacquer, making them the only models in the current Rolex catalogue with such a finish; glossy surfaces are the norm for Rolex.

The matte finish is achieved with six layers of lacquer, followed by varnishing and polishing to create an even, grained surface. As is standard at Rolex, the hour markers and crown emblem are all solid gold appliqués.

Dials aside, the new trio are identical to the earlier versions of the Oyster Perpetual. The cases are steel and matched with Oyster bracelets in brushed steel. All three feature a Twinlock screw-down crown and 100 m of water resistance.

The Oyster bracelet with Crownclasp

The new models are similarly equipped with the same calibres as in existing versions of the Oyster Perpetual. The 28 mm is powered by the compact cal. 2232 that has a 55-hour running time and a silicon Syloxi hairspring.

The 36 mm and 41 mm models, on the other hand, are powered by the cal. 3230, a larger movement with a 70-hour power reserve.

The cal. 2232 (above), and the cal. 3230

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41
Ref. 276200 (28 mm)
Ref. 126000 (36 mm)
Ref. 134300 (41 mm)

Diameter: 28, 36, and 41 mm
Height: 10.7 mm for 28; 11.6 mm for 36 and 41
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 2232 for 28; cal. 3230 for 36 and 41
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours for 28; 70 hours for 36 and 41

Strap: Oyster bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$5,800 for 28; US$6,350 for 36; and US$6,650 for 41

For more, visit Rolex.com.

Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals.

Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic.

Initial thoughts

Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand.

Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries).

Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come.

Two time zones

One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combination of twin hour hands and a rotating 24-hour bezel. The local time hour hand is independently adjustable, making it a “true” GMT that is easy and quick to set.

The new model has all of the key elements of the modern GMT-Master II, including a two-colour ceramic bezel insert and cal. 3285 movement. The only difference between this and past models is the Cerachrom dial.

According to Rolex, the Cerachrom dial is constructed exactly like a precious stone dial – a thin slice of ceramic is mounted on a brass dial base and secured with adhesive. The base is necessary to give the dial strength without compromising the slimness.

Before it is mounted on the base, the ceramic is cut thinly then lapped to give it a mirrored surface. As with other Rolex dials, the indices are applied and all solid gold.

Key facts and price

Rolex GMT-Master II
Ref. 126729 VTNR

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet in 18k white gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2024
Price: US$46,750 before taxes

For more, visit Rolex.com.